series 2 12a into 14's
#2
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dude...come over to www.ausrotary.com as well since you're a fellow Melburnian.
You will not be able to get a na 12a into the 14s without an engine rebuild. You'll need around 140rwhp without weight reduction to cut a 14.9. The most you'll get out of a series 2 12a without a rebuild is around 120rwhp, and even thats pushing it. A series 3 12A on the other hand has larger ports and is capable of more, but not much more. I am making around 130rwhp in my series 3 12A at the moment, but without weight reduction it won't cut a 14.
You'll want also 4.44 final ratio, lightened flywheel, good clutch, and good tyres to get your times down.
If you get a good exhaust, modded carby & cold air intake, you could get around 110rwhp with a series 2 12A. If you get an large extend port, or bridge port, then you will be deep into the 14s, possibly high 13s if the setup is good.
You will not be able to get a na 12a into the 14s without an engine rebuild. You'll need around 140rwhp without weight reduction to cut a 14.9. The most you'll get out of a series 2 12a without a rebuild is around 120rwhp, and even thats pushing it. A series 3 12A on the other hand has larger ports and is capable of more, but not much more. I am making around 130rwhp in my series 3 12A at the moment, but without weight reduction it won't cut a 14.
You'll want also 4.44 final ratio, lightened flywheel, good clutch, and good tyres to get your times down.
If you get a good exhaust, modded carby & cold air intake, you could get around 110rwhp with a series 2 12A. If you get an large extend port, or bridge port, then you will be deep into the 14s, possibly high 13s if the setup is good.
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sorry, i probably didn't really explain myself properly. will extend port, extractors and exhaust and rejetted carby get my into the 14's? will changing the diff ratio bring the times down a lot more?
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One reference I have states both the s2 and s3 had the large port engine which produced 115hp in stock form.
A well modified s3 with stockports and bolt-on/remove modifications should get into the high 14s. For example the 12AT engined s3 did a 15.4 second 1/4 with about 136hp, increasing the power to 150-155hp clips about .6second off this.
With an extend port you should get 180hp, some 150rwhp, which will get you into the low-mid 14s. The Nikki will need boring out besides rejetting to cope with the larger port.
A well modified s3 with stockports and bolt-on/remove modifications should get into the high 14s. For example the 12AT engined s3 did a 15.4 second 1/4 with about 136hp, increasing the power to 150-155hp clips about .6second off this.
With an extend port you should get 180hp, some 150rwhp, which will get you into the low-mid 14s. The Nikki will need boring out besides rejetting to cope with the larger port.
Last edited by PaulFitzwarryne; 05-03-03 at 06:32 AM.
#5
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only the series 3 has the large port...there is some confusion in the official sources over the power output between series 2 and 3...Mazda Australia lists the series 3 has 84.6kW and the series 2 as 77kw. You can tell by the code stamped on the plates...series 3 is different.
Also, a 12AT had 165hp stock not 136hp. You will need around 130-140rwhp depending on weight as I said.
The carb I have is bored, rejetted, and converted to mechanical linkages plus a few other performances tweaks and I agree these will all bring out the power of the EP - even the series 3 12A can take advantage of such mods of a simple jetted carb.
an extend port will get you well into the 14s if the induction and exhaust is up to it.
Bringing the diff ratio to 4.44 will bring the times down a little...and will be great fun on the street.
Also, a 12AT had 165hp stock not 136hp. You will need around 130-140rwhp depending on weight as I said.
The carb I have is bored, rejetted, and converted to mechanical linkages plus a few other performances tweaks and I agree these will all bring out the power of the EP - even the series 3 12A can take advantage of such mods of a simple jetted carb.
an extend port will get you well into the 14s if the induction and exhaust is up to it.
Bringing the diff ratio to 4.44 will bring the times down a little...and will be great fun on the street.
#7
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weight reduction OWNZ I would be surprised if my 7 is over 1500lbs, lol Its awesome spending basically nothing and getting the car in the low 14s (soon to be 13s stock port NA.)
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#8
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1500lbs!!!!!!
does it have any panels or an exhaust system?
Thats great stuff. What sort of things were the big winners...obviously you can remove A/C, emissions gear, spare tyre, jack, and the interior....anything a street car would afford to get rid of though? I'm thinking fibreglass guards and bonnet, as well as swiss cheesed bumper supports.
does it have any panels or an exhaust system?
Thats great stuff. What sort of things were the big winners...obviously you can remove A/C, emissions gear, spare tyre, jack, and the interior....anything a street car would afford to get rid of though? I'm thinking fibreglass guards and bonnet, as well as swiss cheesed bumper supports.
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biggest things:
interior, especially the dashboard
HVAC System
AC system
Complete emission system (air pump, cats, all that ****)
Bumper supports
Trunk lid
Hood
Audio system
Sound deadening, especially the heavy thick crap along the firewall and over the trunk
Headlights (replacing with flush mount)
Doors- glass and door beams
Windshield (havent removed it yet, but may if I can find some plexiglass for cheap)
Windshield wipers and washers
Theres a ton of weight everywhere, weight reduction is all about how far you're willing to go and how much comfort and convenience you can sacrifice. I sacrificed virtually ALL of it. The only gestures to any sort of comfort are the drivers seat and the drivers side door panel, which is coming off soon... I'll take pictures after I get my flush mount headlights done and get her weighed.
oh yea, I'm too cheap to buy a header, so when i race it I'm just gonna have a pipe off each exhaust port heading down and outside of the engine bay and dumping right there. Light and great flowing... just a wee bit loud for the street, lol
interior, especially the dashboard
HVAC System
AC system
Complete emission system (air pump, cats, all that ****)
Bumper supports
Trunk lid
Hood
Audio system
Sound deadening, especially the heavy thick crap along the firewall and over the trunk
Headlights (replacing with flush mount)
Doors- glass and door beams
Windshield (havent removed it yet, but may if I can find some plexiglass for cheap)
Windshield wipers and washers
Theres a ton of weight everywhere, weight reduction is all about how far you're willing to go and how much comfort and convenience you can sacrifice. I sacrificed virtually ALL of it. The only gestures to any sort of comfort are the drivers seat and the drivers side door panel, which is coming off soon... I'll take pictures after I get my flush mount headlights done and get her weighed.
oh yea, I'm too cheap to buy a header, so when i race it I'm just gonna have a pipe off each exhaust port heading down and outside of the engine bay and dumping right there. Light and great flowing... just a wee bit loud for the street, lol
#11
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oh yea gets ALLLL the ladies
I'm gonna sawzall out sections of the floorboard soon and cover them with some super lightweight sheet aluminum. That and get some dry ice so i can get this damned sound deadening tar out easier.
You should see this thing in person, its absolutely hilarious. If you talk inside of it, it echoes and reverberates around. sounds like you are sitting in a tin can
I'm gonna sawzall out sections of the floorboard soon and cover them with some super lightweight sheet aluminum. That and get some dry ice so i can get this damned sound deadening tar out easier.
You should see this thing in person, its absolutely hilarious. If you talk inside of it, it echoes and reverberates around. sounds like you are sitting in a tin can
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