Sea Foam
Sea Foam
Does anyone here use Sea Foam on their cars?
My room mate has used it in every car he has owned but they are all fuel injected piston engines. I was wondering if rotaries would have any issues with it?
I've done some reading on Sea Foam and it says for any gasoline engine so I assume I'd be all right. I see some of the seals in the engine though being different than a piston engines seals that they might have some conflict with it?
My room mate has used it in every car he has owned but they are all fuel injected piston engines. I was wondering if rotaries would have any issues with it?
I've done some reading on Sea Foam and it says for any gasoline engine so I assume I'd be all right. I see some of the seals in the engine though being different than a piston engines seals that they might have some conflict with it?
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Punch in "Seafoam" under Search threads,you will find at Least 10 pages of Info on The subject.(cliff note:it works great on a rotary engine.)
Seafoam is the preferred method of carbon removal, and it will not cause an engine to blow after use. It's very effective and gentler on the seals than the old ATF that has been used for many years. Regular use, i.e., a can in the fuel tank with each oil change is a good maintenance practice.
With high mileage and heavily carboned engines, there is a risk of cleaning out enough carbon that the engine may end may allowing more fuel/oil injected mix to bypass the worn oil control o-rings, producing more oil smoke in the exhaust. For those engines, they were near terminal to begin with as the carbon build up has been masking/sealing worn components
I've found that after the treatment, since the engine usually runs better, an owner may tend to push it harder with the new found performance and that's where engine failures arise from. There is the odd chance on a heavily carboned engine that the treatment may loosen large chunks of still hardened carbon that may catch and break an apex seal.
For this reason, if this is the 1st decarbonizing treatment in many years/miles, it's best to introduce the Seafoan through a vacuum line and allow the engine to set for a day or two, thus allowing the Seafoam to thoroughly soften all of the carbon. For this process,I recommend sucking up 1/2 can of Seafoam at idle at a fast enough rate to kill the engine. Let it sit and soak, the use the 2nd 1/2 can in a slower ingestion to help pull out the remaining carbon.
I sometimes follow up with water pulled in through the same vacuum line to clean the rest of the remaining carbon out. Inside a combustion chamber, water will literally steam clean the inside.
With high mileage and heavily carboned engines, there is a risk of cleaning out enough carbon that the engine may end may allowing more fuel/oil injected mix to bypass the worn oil control o-rings, producing more oil smoke in the exhaust. For those engines, they were near terminal to begin with as the carbon build up has been masking/sealing worn components
I've found that after the treatment, since the engine usually runs better, an owner may tend to push it harder with the new found performance and that's where engine failures arise from. There is the odd chance on a heavily carboned engine that the treatment may loosen large chunks of still hardened carbon that may catch and break an apex seal.
For this reason, if this is the 1st decarbonizing treatment in many years/miles, it's best to introduce the Seafoan through a vacuum line and allow the engine to set for a day or two, thus allowing the Seafoam to thoroughly soften all of the carbon. For this process,I recommend sucking up 1/2 can of Seafoam at idle at a fast enough rate to kill the engine. Let it sit and soak, the use the 2nd 1/2 can in a slower ingestion to help pull out the remaining carbon.
I sometimes follow up with water pulled in through the same vacuum line to clean the rest of the remaining carbon out. Inside a combustion chamber, water will literally steam clean the inside.
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Allentown, PA - Paterson, NJ
From what he said, it seems possible that it could happen, but it would still be a good thing to get rid of because if the carbon build up got to be too much instead of it filling a hole and sliding with the seal it would eventually break off in a reasonable sized chunk and cause damage that might be more expensive to fix.
Hello Is Any One There!!! After Much Thought I Came To The Conclusion That I Will Try Sea Foam So I Went And Bought Some Now I Have A Question Does Any One Have An Idea If It Is Better To Feed It Through A Vaccum Line Or Through The Gas Tank??
^^^did you not read through this thread???
For this reason, if this is the 1st decarbonizing treatment in many years/miles, it's best to introduce the Seafoan through a vacuum line and allow the engine to set for a day or two, thus allowing the Seafoam to thoroughly soften all of the carbon. For this process,I recommend sucking up 1/2 can of Seafoam at idle at a fast enough rate to kill the engine. Let it sit and soak, the use the 2nd 1/2 can in a slower ingestion to help pull out the remaining carbon.
I sometimes follow up with water pulled in through the same vacuum line to clean the rest of the remaining carbon out. Inside a combustion chamber, water will literally steam clean the inside.
For this reason, if this is the 1st decarbonizing treatment in many years/miles, it's best to introduce the Seafoan through a vacuum line and allow the engine to set for a day or two, thus allowing the Seafoam to thoroughly soften all of the carbon. For this process,I recommend sucking up 1/2 can of Seafoam at idle at a fast enough rate to kill the engine. Let it sit and soak, the use the 2nd 1/2 can in a slower ingestion to help pull out the remaining carbon.
I sometimes follow up with water pulled in through the same vacuum line to clean the rest of the remaining carbon out. Inside a combustion chamber, water will literally steam clean the inside.
I have used it both ways I think it is WAY more effective through a vac line...
if u follow the brake booster line to the other side of the motor it ends at another rubber hose that goes right to the intake.. just push it in there I use a funnel and pour it in.. works great car runs FANTASTIC
if u follow the brake booster line to the other side of the motor it ends at another rubber hose that goes right to the intake.. just push it in there I use a funnel and pour it in.. works great car runs FANTASTIC
If the apex seals are sticking, they cannot perform their function. If you are unsure how they actually work, download the FSM in my sig line and read the engine build section.
As far as how to get the engine to ingest the Seafoam on the 12As, pour it down the carb for heavy quick cleaning, in the tank for slower cleaning. Through the tank also cleans the entire fuel system and carb internals.
I'm going to have to say this. I have found that the best way to administer Seafoam is to run it through a partial tank of gas. The vacuum induction method will also work, but I think you really don't get your money's worth out of it that way. Every couple of months I'll run a can through and it seems to work great. Just my opinion.
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What are you asking? Carbon is not there to keep the apex seals in running order.
