Basically I have a SE setup running in my GS. I received lots of help from the forum to get it to this point - so first off...thanks to everyone.

The car is running "okay" but I'm battling different idle issues. I think that as I attempt to solve one issue, I mess up something else...so I'm wondering about the order of operations for tuning.

I believe the dizzy is installed TDC - timing light says it's okay. I've adjusted the TPS several times as per the FSM but each time I fart around with it, the idle speed gets erratic and I have to adjust the air bleed to get it to say running. But after that if I go back to check the TPS - it seems out and I have to readjust. So should I be setting the idle and THEN the TPS?

btw - I've read the excellent writeup on "SE idle issues" but it didn't really say which one to do first.

Another question....when setting the TPS, at a certain point you can hear a solenoid starting to click rapidly. Is THAT the point at which I stop??? Only one meter is showing voltage but there is a range of about 3/4's of a turn. Do I stop it when it's clicking or should I back off slightly?

Info:
- new rotor & cap
- new wires & plugs
- stock ignition (but I've also tried 2nd gen direct fire as well) & ECU
- new vacuum lines all around
- all solenoids working as per fsm
- injectors have been cleaned & new injector plugs installed


Thanks.

 

the engine has to be warmed up all the way to adjust the TPS. i like to use the 2 light method to do it, its the FSM way.

then i adjust the idle speed and mixture. there is actually a page in the FSM that goes thru this process. FSM is @ www.foxed.ca

the idle speed adjustment should not affect the reading of the TPS at all.

 

I'll make a test light as the FSM suggests and try that out. This sounds kinda dirty...but do your solenoids click when the TPS adjustment hits the "sweet spot"?

 

You don't want the solenoids clicking when setting TPS position - reason being that they'll constantly be changing vacuum levels and this will add to your idle issues.

What you want with a '2-light' TPS rig is ONE light lit - and the other unlit. This ensures that the TPS is set in a solid, stable position, and will also result in no solenoids clicking.

When adjusting idle on an -SE, I normally go Idle Adjust Screw (the small, hidden one on the right, controlling the main throttle rod), Air Bleed Screw (for best idle quality), and the TPS is independent of either of these.

If your TPS is adjusting your idle, there's something else going on, which is probably more like the Bypass Air Control Valve (BACV) needing to be cleaned. Good luck,

 

Thanks for the input LongDuck. My mission this afternoon is to rig a 2-light testing unit. My BACV value was cleaned when I put the car back together..gaskets and all. It's very frustrating because I'm SO close to getting her on the road again.