1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

I need help on if this is a good pick or not!

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Old May 29, 2012 | 10:52 PM
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From: Levenworth, WA
I need help on if this is a good pick or not!

Ok so what we go is a 82' with a larger street port. It has 130,000 rebuilt at 100,000 miles.

Now here is the thing it is "eating" oil, about quart to quart an half of oil a week. (I have seen worse) Now from the rebuild on they have been using synthetic oil... is this as bad as it used to be? RacingBeat's site said we can use Royal Purple(I don't know what kind he is using). But old rotard superstition is nothing but real oil and unleaded fuel.

Am I out dated or is synthetic ok now? And if its not, can we flush it out?
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Old May 29, 2012 | 11:08 PM
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I would turn off the mop and premix to see if the mop is just sending too much oil through


Most are gonna say use Dino oil only
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Old May 29, 2012 | 11:41 PM
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Before I knew any better I used full synthetic oil (I know, stupid of me not to read the FAQ section) and it did burn through quite a bit of oil. But not that much. Now running straight conventional, and using as much as she's supposed to. The synthetic didn't ruin anything by the way, but I'm not an expert of any kind and I'm not going to use it again.
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Old May 29, 2012 | 11:46 PM
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From: Levenworth, WA
Originally Posted by 84stock
I would turn off the mop and premix to see if the mop is just sending too much oil through


Most are gonna say use Dino oil only
Ok so are the steps to premixing? (Any Good DIY Threads) All I can find is "is it good or bad bla bla"

Now it is ported so would that much oil going in really be that bad(extra more good)? Also if it has been running with synthetic for the last 30,000 miles would it be wise to change it with it being broken in with it? With Racing Beat going against rotard superstition its got me all

I guess it would also be good to ask what is "normal" oil burning for a 12a with a street port?
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Old May 29, 2012 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lindahlish
Before I knew any better I used full synthetic oil (I know, stupid of me not to read the FAQ section) and it did burn through quite a bit of oil. But not that much. Now running straight conventional, and using as much as she's supposed to. The synthetic didn't ruin anything by the way, but I'm not an expert of any kind and I'm not going to use it again.
So you just changed the oil to conventional, and all was good? But how long did you run it with the synthetic?
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Old May 31, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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Well I picked up the car for $500, I almost felt bad. Right when he got there the clutch was just gone and I couldn't even get in gear for a full trip up and down the street. I told him nice parts car, here's $500 lol and started working.

Slave clutch was bad and so was the clutch MC. Had a slave laying around so I tossed it on, and keep the same clutch MC still wont hold 100% pressure, but it made it much better and derivable. I also did a oil change to dino, and she still smoke's a lot... so I think I am down to trying premixing to see if that will clear things up.

And I am sorry I took the 3 min's to search and got the right premix DIY

If that dose not work... ideas? Call it doomed, and toss in the 13?

Compression numbers are 97lbs F and 100lbs R... so comp is ok.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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The smoking may not be caused by too much oil being injected. There are oil control seals on the rotors, similar to a piston engine, but with a rubber o-ring or sorts. I had a problem of excessive oil consumption on my 79 that I think was being caused by the o-rings drying out a bit from sitting for so long before I bought it. I would suggest draining about 1L of oil out of the engine then putting 1L of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it. It won't work right away, but after driving for about 300 miles or so, you should start to see the oil consumption improve, if those o-rings were the problem.

If it still doesn't improve after premixing and adding Lucas to the oil, then you may have a more serious problem.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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1. i use castrol syntec or edge or whatever it is now 10w40 fwiw

2. you have a more serious issue as my MOP is wired wide open and i burn a quart every 600 miles
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Old May 31, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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I had full synthetic in there for about 3,000 miles and it didn't hurt anything. I'm considering running a semi-synthetic blend but I'm tossing it back and forth in my head at the moment.
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Old May 31, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
The smoking may not be caused by too much oil being injected. There are oil control seals on the rotors, similar to a piston engine, but with a rubber o-ring or sorts. I had a problem of excessive oil consumption on my 79 that I think was being caused by the o-rings drying out a bit from sitting for so long before I bought it. I would suggest draining about 1L of oil out of the engine then putting 1L of Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it. It won't work right away, but after driving for about 300 miles or so, you should start to see the oil consumption improve, if those o-rings were the problem.

If it still doesn't improve after premixing and adding Lucas to the oil, then you may have a more serious problem.
With another drive and playing with the throttle: it dose not smoke for warm up, not a lot of smoke in first, dumping smoke in second gear, third less dumping and on the back roads that,s as high as she got.

Just barley putting my foot on the throttle in second and its a smoke screen, keep the RPM's around 4k you can still see it in the vortex behind the car but its not blinding hiding the next car... I don't think I could do 300 miles for the stabilizer. Maybe the motor is just to far gone for premix... but hey still got to try. Right
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Old May 31, 2012 | 11:39 PM
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From: Levenworth, WA
Just talked to the guy about some spare bits he had for the car (bra, car cover)... I remembered I had not ask him if he ever over heated it. He said "no never once, never had it even gotten near it". As we all know it happens, we hate to admit it but it dose happen. To say it "never has happend" is a lie (I know how this guy drives) every story from my buddy about him, he railed this car hard. Today when I was driving the temp gauge did not get off peg till I had driven 4 miles (I let it warm up till for 10min's) and it never got past 1/4.

So there's that too.
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 10:00 PM
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From: Levenworth, WA
So here she is in all of here baby blue goodness.





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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 10:09 PM
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For $500, you should be arrested for grand theft!
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Old Jun 2, 2012 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Directfreak
For $500, you should be arrested for grand theft!
Oh yeah lol cant wait to get her back up to speed.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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I still say disable the mop and premix, that is a cheap test on the oil consumption! Just disconnect the actuator rod from the carb linkage, the mop will not open at all. Then premix 100:1 and test drive..Freebie!!
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:08 PM
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Does it smoke on startup?

If they had the side plates resurfaced, they're dead now, as are your oil seals. Time for a rebuild. Get some unmolested side plates and some good used or new oil seals. Might as well get some new o-rings and competition outer oil springs. You oil consumption will drop to near zero! Other than what the OMP/MOP uses, of course.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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The LE wheels are worth $500 alone! lol
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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From: Levenworth, WA
Originally Posted by 84stock
I still say disable the mop and premix, that is a cheap test on the oil consumption! Just disconnect the actuator rod from the carb linkage, the mop will not open at all. Then premix 100:1 and test drive..Freebie!!
You know I had not thought about it being that easy haha, I was just going to pull the MOP, and make a plate to block it off. Bit more work then just just disconnecting the rod. Cake, I'll do that today I think.

Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Does it smoke on startup?

If they had the side plates resurfaced, they're dead now, as are your oil seals. Time for a rebuild. Get some unmolested side plates and some good used or new oil seals. Might as well get some new o-rings and competition outer oil springs. You oil consumption will drop to near zero! Other than what the OMP/MOP uses, of course.
No not at first start up, and at start up idle there is next to none. If you put any RPM's to her she starts to, and once she starts she don't stop.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jibaro 12A
The LE wheels are worth $500 alone! lol
Right


What is the size of the fuel tank of a FB? I know FC's are around 16...
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 12:23 AM
  #20  
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Premix run one done. Only time she smokes is 4000rpm and up when pushed. Second gear is still the worst. Could there be a lot of oil in the exhaust that needs to be burnt off? It seems that it really only smokes when you get after it, and it pushed a lot of heat.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Ok put in the block off plate, and she is still running good. Now its still smoking alot 4000 rpm and higher. Is this oil burning off in the exhaust, or could it be worse? I have only put on 50 miles with the premixing, so the exhaust could still have a lot of oil in it... How long could it take to burn it up?
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 06:46 PM
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have you compression tested the engine?
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 13x
have you compression tested the engine?
Yeah 97psi F 100psi R... So thats not to bad.
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