SE swap e brake cables
11-01-06, 06:32 PM
#1
wheres the water goin?
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SE swap e brake cables
im doin an SE suspension swap and i read a few old posts but im not 100% clear on a couple of things.
1 i know that i need to change that brake cables over from the SE, i notice that it comes in sections. do i have to use the whole cable or can i use the aft most section for the swap?
2 Trochiod stated in a other post ( i dont remeber which one ) to keep all the nuts and bolts loose till the rear end is centered. call me stupid, but what is the best way to confirm that everything is centered?
3 i guess that this one should have been 2 but oh well is there any easy way to get the ebrake cables in and out of the frame
i have a donor car that im pulling everything off that i need and want. i ll be doing a 12A to 13B swap as sson as im done with this and then it goes to the wrecker ( salvage title)
1 i know that i need to change that brake cables over from the SE, i notice that it comes in sections. do i have to use the whole cable or can i use the aft most section for the swap?
2 Trochiod stated in a other post ( i dont remeber which one ) to keep all the nuts and bolts loose till the rear end is centered. call me stupid, but what is the best way to confirm that everything is centered?
3 i guess that this one should have been 2 but oh well is there any easy way to get the ebrake cables in and out of the frame
i have a donor car that im pulling everything off that i need and want. i ll be doing a 12A to 13B swap as sson as im done with this and then it goes to the wrecker ( salvage title)
11-01-06, 07:15 PM
#2
#1- I believe all you need is the cables from where they split apart back. Im not sure, but this could all depend on the model your upgrading from.
#2- It isnt so much important to center everything, as it should center itself. What you want to do is have the rear suspension loaded, so the cars weight is resting on the rear end when you tighten it all down. All this does is keep the bushings in a neutral position when you torque it down, so that there is no preload on anything from the bushings being tightened when the car is unsupported by the suspension. This wont do much, except perhaps decrease the chances of binding and squeeking.
#3- I havent found an easy way yet...except to get everything disconnected before you go at it. Where the E-brake cable goes through the frame has always seemed like a real PITA to me.
#2- It isnt so much important to center everything, as it should center itself. What you want to do is have the rear suspension loaded, so the cars weight is resting on the rear end when you tighten it all down. All this does is keep the bushings in a neutral position when you torque it down, so that there is no preload on anything from the bushings being tightened when the car is unsupported by the suspension. This wont do much, except perhaps decrease the chances of binding and squeeking.
#3- I havent found an easy way yet...except to get everything disconnected before you go at it. Where the E-brake cable goes through the frame has always seemed like a real PITA to me.
11-01-06, 07:34 PM
#3
wheres the water goin?
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1 im upgrading from an 85 to an 85 just different models.
2 i ll just drop the car and tighten it all up.
3 is the rubber that surrounds the cable and cable housing a boot that gets pushed in the frame?
2 i ll just drop the car and tighten it all up.
3 is the rubber that surrounds the cable and cable housing a boot that gets pushed in the frame?
11-01-06, 08:00 PM
#4
1. Afaik, all you need is the cables from the caliper to the clevis pin.
2. Assemble everything while it's up in the air, drop it to the ground, make sure the axle is centered side to side, then torque to specs.
3. There is a clip that holds the cable where it goes through the frame. Same type of clip that's used to hold the soft brake lines to the hard ones on the inner fender brackets and the clutch hydraulic line to the bracket on the firewall.
2. Assemble everything while it's up in the air, drop it to the ground, make sure the axle is centered side to side, then torque to specs.
3. There is a clip that holds the cable where it goes through the frame. Same type of clip that's used to hold the soft brake lines to the hard ones on the inner fender brackets and the clutch hydraulic line to the bracket on the firewall.
11-01-06, 08:07 PM
#5
wheres the water goin?
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Originally Posted by trochoid
1. Afaik, all you need is the cables from the caliper to the clevis pin.
2. Assemble everything while it's up in the air, drop it to the ground, make sure the axle is centered side to side, then torque to specs.
3. There is a clip that holds the cable where it goes through the frame. Same type of clip that's used to hold the soft brake lines to the hard ones on the inner fender brackets and the clutch hydraulic line to the bracket on the firewall.
2. Assemble everything while it's up in the air, drop it to the ground, make sure the axle is centered side to side, then torque to specs.
3. There is a clip that holds the cable where it goes through the frame. Same type of clip that's used to hold the soft brake lines to the hard ones on the inner fender brackets and the clutch hydraulic line to the bracket on the firewall.
Afaik?????
Awesome! I know that i can always count on what you say to be the correct solution!!!
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11-07-06, 12:30 PM
#8
wheres the water goin?
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i did the ebrake cables and all you got to change from the clevis back. it took about 30 mins with taking them off on one car and put on the next!
11-07-06, 01:53 PM
#9
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Sounds about right...the hardest part is getting the cotter pin and clevis pin out and back in on the passenger's side if you don't remove the heat shields.
Rich
Rich
11-07-06, 03:54 PM
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what i did to get it on was that i did the passenger side first that way it gave that lil bit of slack to pull the clevis between frame and the heat sheild and everything went smoothly!
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