Rotaryfreak702

Ok so this is another issue for me.
Just like a week ago after shutting the car off for maybe 30 mins. Go back out and car does not start. We push start and everything works ok.

A couple days later it happens again this time after work in the mgm parking garage. I pulled the engine fuse and cranked it over to de-flood, popped it back in and still no start. I had to push start again. (Got a security guard to help)

Now I go out this morning and same thing. Haven't gotten it started yet cuz no one to help me push start. I even pulled my plugs and cleaned them of and still no start.

Now to top it off there is a non stop clicking sound comming from the black solenoid/relay on the right in the rats nest.

Can someone help me figure this out. The car is my daily.

It is 13b fuel injected.

Thanks.

Rotaryfreak702

Forgot to mention the clicking sound only happens with key in "ON."

Rotaryfreak702

Well I just got it to start.
It took forever. While cranking it progressively started. But it runs like ****.

I took it for a drive and it stalled on me twice at stop signs. It can barely hold idle.

This is kinda new. I had the clicking crap before but it went away on its own and now its back again. Along with the shitty idle as well. I think that the two go hand in hand some how.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the SE has quite a few relays in the left firewall corner of the engine bay. posting a pic of the relay will help us help you. the main relays are specific to the SE and a clicking condition is not normal. they should click once when the key is turned to the on position. if they continue clicking, there is an issue with one or both or there is an issue with interrupted power supplying them.

Rotaryfreak702

Sorry not a relay then. But the black solenoid on the right of two in the rats nest. (Behind the uim)

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

so you're talking about the pressure regulator solenoid valve. its job is to close off vacuum between the dynamic chamber and fuel pressure regulator. its operates when the intake temps are above 122 degrees farenheit, when teh engine is cranking, and after the engine is no longer cranking. esentially it helps to prevent engine stalling.

Rotaryfreak702

Cool.
So any idea on why it would be clicking?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

perhaps its being supplied intermittent voltage or there's a short in the wiring or corrosion on the connector..

Rotaryfreak702

Does the acv relay have any relation with that valve.

Rotaryfreak702

Another thing to note is last night the car ran just fine. Not this morning it didn't want to start again and it runs like the fuel is cutting out very speradically. I mean it just bogs everywhere.

Rotaryfreak702

So anybody else have any ideas. Or can point me in the right direction.

Tuner321

it might be in need of new plugs, i had a similar problem this summer, cost me two driving months, anyway try changing the plugs if you do a lot of highway driving use the NGK R BR9EQ 14, if its a lot of city driving then use the BR8EQ 14, that made all the difference for me, as for the clicking maybe a dealer could read the ECU for you, if they have the code reader still. Good luck though hope she runs better for you.

Rotaryfreak702

Its got new plugs already but thanks for the reply.
I got fc plugs leading since I have a 2g coil. Even put the standard ones in and no difference.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

If you haven't already, carefully check/clean or replace the Negative battery cable and each of it's connections. If it is the original cable replace it. Do the same for the positive cable and the fusible link box and it's connections.

Rotaryfreak702

It has brand new battery cables and an fc fuse box. But ill go ahead and try that out and see.

Still don't know how the solenoid issue has never came up before.

There isn't a cranking problem or anything though.

Rotaryfreak702

As far as the battery cables goes everything is looking good.
Got it started up this morning and it idles terribly still. I tried to move it but it just cut off immediately.
That solenoid is still clicking and when the car is on the orange solenoid in the rats nest starts clicking as well. What is going on.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i'll look and see if i have a spare solenoid. if you think the solenoid is faulty, i'll pm you and if you pay shipping i'll send you the solenoid.

Rotaryfreak702

Ok. Sounds good.

Rotaryfreak702

Ok so just to clarify its the round solenoid called a "vacuum solenoid valve. The one located right next to the purge valve that is my issue.

Rotaryfreak702

Also I hooked it up to just battery power and there was no clicking. It only stops after the ecu is unplugged.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Check the two black ground wires bolted to the top of the intermediate iron housing. The bolt is under the vacuum solenoid valve. These ground the ECU, the MAF sensor, the Vacuum switch and the control unit (which controls the other solenoids). Section B-2 in the wiring diagram shows them as B-21 and B-22.

Which solenoid is clicking?

Rotaryfreak702

It is the vacuum solenoid valve. The cylinder looking one.

Rotaryfreak702

And also when I re-ground it it doesn't click but when it uses the ground through the ecu it does.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Can't you swap them out with their neighbor?

Rotaryfreak702

So like I noted earlier the solenoid still clicks when its grounded with the ecu. I think the ground is messed up. Could something be wrong with my ecu.

Also my car doesn't start at all. I have confirmed fuel and spark. I don't think that my injectors are operating.