Should I be able to feel my 6-port actuators "kick in" on my GSL-SE? The power band feels smooth from top to bottom with no real "kick" at any certain rpm.

 

if they are operating properly you cant feel them, if they are a little slow you will feel them

mike

 

cool, nice and smooth must be operating properly

 

Once the car is warm, have someone rev the engine and watch the actuators themselves to see if the rods move. They should open around 3700rpm and be wide open by around 5800rpm.

If they don't move..then they're not opening. I've always noticed when they open although it's not like the kick of a turbo or anything.

F-

 

Aren't they supposed to be Fully open by 4000rpm? thats how mine were.

 

when i clean mine in my car i felt a diferece specially 4k and above. is not a kick feel but it sure that revs more happier

 

On my 84SE, the '6' ports open noticably at 3800 rpm, and you can feel it in the powerband. This is due to the additional airflow, and also the decreased flow velocity of the air/fuel mixture into the engine. This is almost like getting 'on-boost', however doesn't have the same kick that you'd feel with turbo-lag.

They have only done the above since I rebuild the lower intake system and thoroughly cleaned out the '6' port channels and actuators. Now, I notice them opening, when before, it was not noticable. I think that they were stuck before, since sometimes, the engine appeared to lack the high end power that it had on good days (warm days?). Anyway, I think if they're working correctly, you should be able to feel them kick in at 3800 rpm.

If not, you might want to look into it, as you're likely missing out on great power at the right place in the torque curve. HTH,

 

Sorry for the igmo question, but where exactly do I look to see the actuators working?

 

one way to check them is by putting grease in the shaft on the actuator and give it a happy run ( pass 3k rpm ) if the grease is all the way to one side of the shaft youre ok but if the grease is still were you put it, you have to clean it. another way is by pussing the shaft with your finger. it should go easy if not do the grease deal.

 

one thing i can tell you that is a pain to clean and get unstuck those sleeves. this is a job that you have to be paciece or youre screw it up.

 

It'll likely vary slightly car to car. Mine open late (4200rpm) since I'm teeing of the airpump and need a better seal :P

The actuators though don't move based on rpm, but based on pressure through the split air pipe from the cat:

Begin opening: 100mmHg (1.93psi)
Fully open: 145mmHg (2.80psi)

I think you should notice the additional ports open. Check the condition of the hose to your split air pipe, and make sure you can see them move.

F-

 

Considering that I just removed the upper intake manifold (and soon the lower) to clean my intake and sleeves (inspired by Longducks previous "experience with ATF....Wow!"), exactly how might I screw this up (so I know what NOT to do). TIA.

Right on.

 

When I hit about 3500 RPM, something kicks in to give more 'oommph', its the actuators?? I assume if it's doing this, leave it alone or as a wise man once said "If it works DON'T FIX IT!"

 

what benefit is there to keeping them open all the time as i have seen some people with them rigged to be always open.

 

The benefit of having them open all the time would be for race purposes mainly..at high RPM & WOT. Other than that there is low end torque loss loss and reduced fuel economy. There is a reason why Mazda designed them.

 

You may/may not "feel" the difference. I've learned to watch my tach as it sweeps. It's more noticeable in 3rd gear. Once it hits 3500+, the sweep picks up slightly. I also have one of the cheap AF meters and when the ports open, the meter suddenly runs "rich". And you all thought those things were useless!

jeryj

 

if youre sleeves are really stuck, like mine, dont try to force them to go out because you will break them, it almost hapened to me. try to twist them and get them loose with some carb cleaner. spray it in the sleeve not into the port and keep twisting until the get loose and then get try to get them out. ones you have them out put them in a yar full of degrease and leave them overnight there and take a rag and carb cleaner and clean the ports. it took me 4 days to do this but they were spankling clean. in the intake manifold put it in a big bucket full of degreaser and some and scrub the inside the intake with a old tooth brush until it come clean. it worth the work.

 

and probably have to use a screw drive to get the carbon out. so dont use your favorite one