Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Taking on something new (to me). It's an S5 turbo on a 4 port R5 13B that's been ported kinda big. The intake is a Weber 45 DCOE on a Racing Beat manifold.

Test fitting and clearancing.



It used to make contact here. Now I've got an air gap. Will it be enough?


Side view.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

stock the t2 has a little heat sheild between the turbo and the intake manifold, that air gap is ok, but the more you can isolate the turbo from the intake the better.

heat = bad

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Mike! I'll probably cut up a heat shield for a 12A exhaust manifold and shove it down there. It's a sandwich with sheetmetal, fiberglass and a perforated inner sheet. Should be adequate.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

get the heat shield made for that dellorto manifold. i think RB sells them still.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Not enough room. Thanks anyway.

Spyride

if you get that working let me know, will save me a grip when I finish getting my TII put back together and shoved into my 7. Are you sure the 12a heat shield is going to fit into there though? looks a little cramped

Rx Seven

iTrader: (12)

I'm sure you've seen it already but you could just add another exhaust flange and make a spacer like what you would do to bolt up a s4/s5 turbo to a 12a in order to get more spacing if what you have isn't adequate.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Jeff,
Im not sure if this will help but here it goes. My mock-up using old school 13-B with modified TII intake manifold and S4 turbo (another unfinished project )

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Ah, wacky, that does kinda help. Is that where the water comes from? I'll just have to use the upper nipple on the S4 T2 waterpump. The water will exit the turbo and enter the lower nipple on the waterpump intake pipe (lower rad hose) where there's suction. PercentSevenC was saying these turbos don't necessarily need water cooling, but I feel at least hooking it up this way will allow the coolant to circulate whether it actually takes any heat out of the turbo or not.

Since this turbo I'm using is an S5, I've heard that it can hit the idler arm. Chris (sold his car to notveryhappyjack) mentioned something about the idler arm, like moving it down a little, but I can't recall the details.

The 1/8" spacers I'm forced to use to move the turbo away from the intake manifold may further complicate things with the idler arm. Any thoughts? The turbo will be relocated a total of 1/4" further from the engine.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

you dont need the water lines but if you can do it, then why not? every lil thing helps. also, you can wrap the turbo to reduce the heat to intake manifold. I have no experience with S5. Maybe Rob can give you some input.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Use the lines leading to the heater core for water.

Also, you would really want a heatshield on the engine. The air gap is too small to provide any air flow around it.

brandon davis

iTrader: (3)

Is the 45 dcoe to small for the amount of airflow or is it that since the air will be forced as opposed to drawn in it doenst pose a major restriction?

slate84

would a dell 48mm dhla also be a good canidate for a project like this?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm hoping to get an S5 manifold heat shield at least. Then either wrap the turbo or do something.

I have no clue whether 45DCOE will be big enough. This project is for someone else. He's handling all the details like that. Turbos were foreign to me. I'm just learning as I go.

Does anyone have a stock S5 T2 downpipe they want to get rid of?

Here is a better shot of the setup.


I'll use this filter pedestal with this barbed fitting to feed oil from the filtererd side to the turbo.



It may have to wait though. As I was cutting threads to add some OMP injection fittings to the manifold, the tap broke. I was fortunately able to flip the manifold upside down and hammer it out, ripping out all the threads in the process. What you see is the end result. I'm sure the other pieces went flying off in all directions when it shattered.



Man I got lucky. I'm glad it worked out in the end.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

As you can see above, I was fortunately able to move up to the next NPT size and use an adaptor fitting. Do you think I will need to add a restrictor to each line? Will normal engine vacuum pull lots of oil in? Will boost push it back in to the OMP?

pinoyremix

are you building this for percent?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yep.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

hmm just had an idea, maybe you should use the gsl-se-fd metering nozzles, all the 84-03 cars have a vacuum reference to the metering oil.

also they found on the fd's (for the 99 updates) that at full boost, it would suck the tube dry, and then it went a few rotations with no oil. theres an sae paper, but the fix was to make the nozzles in the rotor housings a little smaller, and theres a little more space for oil to collect

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I installed a set of FD vacuum referenced ones on the RX-4 when it got a set of GSL-SE rotor housings. It would smoke from time to time, with and without the supercharger.

My friend's supercharged rotary 510, the engine has been used in several 1st gens previously, hardly ever smokes. It has the small hole vacuum referenced type, but the vacuum nipples are simply capped. Seems to work well.

Hmm, maybe I should be on the lookout for a set of restrictors which can usually be found inside one of the tubes of a 1st gen rat's nest. Or perhaps I could make a set out of brass with a tiny hole drilled through. I think the smallest drill bit I have handy is 1.17mm. The hole in 3rd gen and 20B injectors is a bit larger. I'll have to compare sizes and pick something that will work.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

I'm hurt you haven't asked me for help considering I've been there and done that! A S5 turbo should not hit the idler arm, mine didn't. It's close, but it should not be a fitment issue. Don`t use the MOP, just premix, and yes you need vacuume/boost reference injectors if you want them to work. the 45DCOE should be good for at least 250whp at 10psi intercooled.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

+1 Hyper

Jeff, here is how mine is set up. I used a header flange to space my turbo. As you can see it clears a BNR stage 3 with no problems(just have to get a turbo beanie). I would also suggest replacing the idler arm with a Moog because it sits lower. Hope this helps!


Thanks, Ed

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

This project is actually for PercentSevenC. I'm sure he's asked you about this several times, so don't feel hurt.

Does he really have to use boost referenced type oil injectors? My friend's supercharged engine has them capped off and it works fine. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try. His OMP works perfectly so I'd like to keep it hooked up.

The amount of boost he'll run in the beginning will be very low. Like 5PSI or something.

13BTOY, which exhaust studs did you use? I see you didn't use water cooling.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Jeff, no water lines. Just have to sit and let it cool off and idle after a hard run. As for the exhaust studs those are courtesy of Wackyracer.


Ed

PercentSevenC

Heh, I guess it's obvious I don't check this forum often enough anymore when I missed a thread about my own car.

The 45 DCOE is on the engine and running now. Needs tuning (it's got the stumble at the transition to the main circuit) and a better throttle return spring solution, but we were getting rained on pretty bad, so I'll see what I can do about it later. It's drivable, at least.

Adrian, you can be sure I'll be asking for your help getting this thing tuned. Also, I seem to remember that you used a stock TII intercooler as a front-mount? I had been planning on running low-boost non-intercooled, but if I can find a really cheap intercooler (we're talking like $30) it might be a good idea to use it.

That's the other thing about this project. I have basically no money. This will be the most ghetto turbo installation you will ever see (I hope).

The turbo barely cleared the idler arm when we test fitted it in Jeff's car today. It was actually rather tricky getting it in. There was only maybe a quarter inch or so of clearance. Rx Seven: we considered doing it that way, but the idler arm is so close that we'd have to have the turbo moved well forward to clear it. I've got another idea I'd like to play with, Jeff, maybe I can come over again tomorrow and try it.

brandon davis: I've heard some conflicting information about Weber sizing. I think it will be big enough for now. A 48 would probably be preferable, but this is what I had access to, so it's what I'll use. slate84: a 48 DHLA would be great, and it's what I'd use if I had my choice and didn't want to go EFI.

Water cooling isn't strictly necessary, but it's easy enough to hook it up that we might as well.

slate84

thank you, thats what i'm running. have been planning on going about a setup like this but can't find the first thing on boost preping a dell.