I am purchasing a 13b turbo/manifold/wastegate from a series4 rex, i know they can be made to fit a 12a, im just wondering what all is involved in making it work
ANY help is greatly appriceated

 

You will need to slot the holes to fit the 12a block and I have a feeling the turbo will hit the stock intake manifold.

 

i will be going with a rotary shack weber carb modified for turbo, so that wont be an issue

u think im gonna dump 6 psi into a stock nikki? yer crazy...

 

If you get it to work please post it because i'll do it too, i am getting boost hungry..

 

Yeah but are you using the one peice manifold or the two piece?

 

gregs you ever get my pm about the shiping cost of the coils?

 

i dont know
its a stock series4 manifold

-greg

rexport, i get payed tomorrow, ill send the payment then

-greg

 

im plannin on going turbo on my 12a also. already made the holes bigger on the series 4 turbo manifold bigger. just need another intake system. got the R.E. dual dcd's on my car but the damn turbo keeps hittin the intake manifold. keep us posted on your project Gregs.

 

6psi? That's it? Forget what the old folks on the forum have told you, a stock 12a can take boost. Don't go over 16psi, cause after that you'll get a dowel pin leak. But it'll take 12psi all day long, maybe a couple psi more, but I usually run mine at 12psi. If I really need to conserve gas then I drop it down to 8psi, but I rarely do that.

The nikki takes boost fine, it just needs a couple mods done to it.

 

You have a few options then.

1. You can either get a custom exhaust manifold made that puts the turbo out a little farther so it doesn't hit the manifold.

2. Get a weber. ($575+carb hat)

3. Buy my intake setup It includes the carb hat and everything. It's a modded nikki from rotaryshack with a ported j-spec 12aTurbo manifold.
http://coldy13.rottenass.com/carb1.jpg
http://coldy13.rottenass.com/engine3.jpg

 

Could that manifold look like its PA emissions legal?... the new rule is it has to have all emissions **** equipt... so I might be able to make it look like everythings there with that. I have a 79 btw.

 

Most of the emissions holes on the intake are welded shut. The ACV is just blocked off with a plate, so you could re-install the ACV no problem, but the rest of the stuff you would need to drill and tap and put in fittings to connect the emissions junk.

Ahh, nevermind, you just want it to LOOK like it has emissions. You might be able to do that, but it would take quite a bit of work to make it look like everything is really connected and not just tossed under the hood. Just depends on how closely they really check.

 

what are the needs for a turbo? Could i slap on a s4 manifold and hook it up to a holley carb? I am really interested in turboing my car i am just not very familiar with the process... Coldy what is the price for the setup you have a link to...

 

explain the circled part for me......also what is a realistic cost for this....under 1k under $700 what's it gonna take to get the car going? Would i be better off buying a used 12a turbo from rotaryshack or whovever sells them?? I saw a used one for $800 plus $300 shipping for a whole motor....

 

that has something to do with the air control valve
i assume that gets blocked off

but yet you are right the turbo gets spooled from the exhaust, not the intake

-greg

 

That is where the ACV(emissions ****) used to be. It has a blockoff plate on it now, I just didn't have one cut yet for it when I took that pic.

 

what was the cost of the setup shown? could i use my racing beat manifold and holley carb? please help...i have the full rb setup carb wise and manifold...

 

Yep, you can use your rb manifold and holley, but you might need to take apart the holley and modify a couple things. At the very least it will need much bigger jets and a bit of tuning. My entire setup ended up costing just under $1000. I'm not done yet though, I just have it completed enough that it drives fine. I still have to add a MSD ignition, intercooler, weber carb, and I'm building a very nice streetport engine to put in there later So at the end it will cost me about $1500.

 

to get an s4 manifold to fit a 12a:

Buy two exhaust header flanges from racing beat, one a 12a and one a 13b. take them to a muffler/welder shop, have them weld a very short section of piping between each hole. You now have an adapter, as well as a spacer.

 

tight, good idea geoff, im gonan buy those plates, cause they are only like 20 bucks i believe
one issue with that is having enough space to bolt the flange to the engine and then the s4 mani to the extended flange....

 

man i am so freakin excited.......you know of anyone on here that can make a blowthrough hat for the holley carb fo me?

 

ok can someone here tell me what else i need i found the turbo and manifold but the guy wrote this

" You dont need any of the oil lines? I done have those becuase I'm still using them. I do have some S5 lines for sale that would work also listed for sale. But the return line is different for the S4 and S5. Just a heads up, in case you didnt know. And the you will want to cut off the twin scroll door and weld shut the door on the Turbine housing if your not going to use the twin scroll set up. Thanx!"
What is he talking about? Where do i hook up the oil lines to? And the twin scroll door? Whatabout a wastegate is that on the manifold or is it something seprate? I don't wanna waste money on something i'll never put together but i want to make it work, so can someone tell me everything i will need to basically hook it up..
thanks

trevor

 

you need to have an oil send and an oil return line. I'm not sure how that would work on a 12a engine block.

The oil return line can be tapped into the front cover, like it is on the turbo 2 front cover. Which is right near the oil metereing pump. i'm not sure how you would send oil from the front cover other side..... hm

carb hat, contact www.rotaryshack.com he can sell you everything you need.

 

Its a little far and you would have to span acros the void, but I bet the oil cooler would do it (using pressure from the system), or someone could fabricate a small adapter for under the oil filter. I like the oil cooler idea its cooler (heat wise).