S4 Mani adaptor being welded up... quick lessons learned.
05-12-06, 12:26 AM
#1
Bad A55ed Hands
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: LV
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
S4 Mani adaptor being welded up... quick lessons learned.
Hi again fellas. I just wanted to share with you what work it's taken to get my stock S4 Manifold and Turbo fitting into a 12a 1st gen. My little idea is at the welder first thing tomorrow morning. 
Certainly most of you know more about this than myself, but there are enough 'new' guys (counting me) that have no idea how to get a turbo onto the 12a... this is not a COMPLETE writeup by any means, simply how to bolt a turbo on. Maybe later on in my project (and as I learn more myself) I'll post how-to's on oil and water lines, intercooler plumbing, fuel, etc...
Anyway, the problem with fitment is that the hotside of the turbo hits the bottom of the intake manifold, so you'll need to make an adaptor to get it away from the intake... however, you cant make an adaptor so big that it hits the inside frame rail or idler arm.... Also in the way is the pesky motor mount.
Robert from Rotary Shack started the idea of grafting the S4 in, and Aaron Cake's (sp?) webpage gave me the plan on how to do it. Starting with Robert's idea of just stacking two RB adaptors ontop of each other to clear the intake mani, I quickly realised that doing that WILL NOT clear the manifold (at least in my case) AND pushed the turbo into the idler arm.
A little more thinking, and reading up on Aaron Cake's (sp?) website got me to this idea (sorry, I'm not any good at graphics):
Here's a quick parts list for the setup. You'll need 2 RB manifold flanges, 2 gaskets, and a 2.5" length of 2.25" tubing cut down into 1.25" lengths. I dont recall the angle of the cut on the tubing to get the proper offset forward, but overall, it shifts the turbo forward a total of 2" and out away from the engine block itself 2". I think I have a total of $50 in 'parts' and the welding is costing me another $30. For $80 total, it's not bad at all.
The layout is VERY simialar to Aaron's adaptor, only mine acutally moves the turbo forward more:
Again, the reason for bumping the turbo forward is so that it clears the idler arm, and puts the turbo in a more empty spot in the bay. Keeping the turbin away from the idler arm will also help the life span of those poor little idler arm bushings who will be subjected to so much heat now.
Also a problem for us 12a guys is the fact that the bolt holes on a stock 13bt manifold dont line up with the RB flange bolt holes. I used the RB gasket over top of the 13bt manifold to line up my new holes and started drilling. It took me about an hour or so moving up the line with drill bits to get new holes in the stocke s4 manifold it to line up with the RB 12a flange. Of course, the holes overlapped, so now I have a HUGE, sloppy hole, but when it's bolted on permanently, I've got no problems with it shifting around - it's actually quite firm.
Since I dont have a digital camera, but I will take some photo's tomorrow with my camera phone so that you can at least see SOMETHING. Sorry if this is a little to vague for now, maybe it will become more clear when you can see some photo's.
I'm certain there are more effecient designs for accomplishing the same purpose - this seemed to me to be the easiest and cheapest method of mounting the turbocharger.
*EDIT* Good reading, and great parts and service found at hhtp://www.rotaryshack.com, and at http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm. I hope Aaron and Robert dont mind me using thier names, ideas, and websites... I just thought I'd give credit where it's due.
Certainly most of you know more about this than myself, but there are enough 'new' guys (counting me) that have no idea how to get a turbo onto the 12a... this is not a COMPLETE writeup by any means, simply how to bolt a turbo on. Maybe later on in my project (and as I learn more myself) I'll post how-to's on oil and water lines, intercooler plumbing, fuel, etc...
Anyway, the problem with fitment is that the hotside of the turbo hits the bottom of the intake manifold, so you'll need to make an adaptor to get it away from the intake... however, you cant make an adaptor so big that it hits the inside frame rail or idler arm.... Also in the way is the pesky motor mount.
Robert from Rotary Shack started the idea of grafting the S4 in, and Aaron Cake's (sp?) webpage gave me the plan on how to do it. Starting with Robert's idea of just stacking two RB adaptors ontop of each other to clear the intake mani, I quickly realised that doing that WILL NOT clear the manifold (at least in my case) AND pushed the turbo into the idler arm.
A little more thinking, and reading up on Aaron Cake's (sp?) website got me to this idea (sorry, I'm not any good at graphics):
Here's a quick parts list for the setup. You'll need 2 RB manifold flanges, 2 gaskets, and a 2.5" length of 2.25" tubing cut down into 1.25" lengths. I dont recall the angle of the cut on the tubing to get the proper offset forward, but overall, it shifts the turbo forward a total of 2" and out away from the engine block itself 2". I think I have a total of $50 in 'parts' and the welding is costing me another $30. For $80 total, it's not bad at all.
The layout is VERY simialar to Aaron's adaptor, only mine acutally moves the turbo forward more:
Again, the reason for bumping the turbo forward is so that it clears the idler arm, and puts the turbo in a more empty spot in the bay. Keeping the turbin away from the idler arm will also help the life span of those poor little idler arm bushings who will be subjected to so much heat now.
Also a problem for us 12a guys is the fact that the bolt holes on a stock 13bt manifold dont line up with the RB flange bolt holes. I used the RB gasket over top of the 13bt manifold to line up my new holes and started drilling. It took me about an hour or so moving up the line with drill bits to get new holes in the stocke s4 manifold it to line up with the RB 12a flange. Of course, the holes overlapped, so now I have a HUGE, sloppy hole, but when it's bolted on permanently, I've got no problems with it shifting around - it's actually quite firm.
Since I dont have a digital camera, but I will take some photo's tomorrow with my camera phone so that you can at least see SOMETHING. Sorry if this is a little to vague for now, maybe it will become more clear when you can see some photo's.
I'm certain there are more effecient designs for accomplishing the same purpose - this seemed to me to be the easiest and cheapest method of mounting the turbocharger.
*EDIT* Good reading, and great parts and service found at hhtp://www.rotaryshack.com, and at http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm. I hope Aaron and Robert dont mind me using thier names, ideas, and websites... I just thought I'd give credit where it's due.
Last edited by timmybighands; 05-12-06 at 12:29 AM.
05-12-06, 01:02 AM
#3
Bad A55ed Hands
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: LV
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, to be honest, I never thought that far ahead. I feel like such an *** now. Lol. Add this to the 'lessons learned' part. 
Last edited by timmybighands; 05-12-06 at 01:12 AM.
05-12-06, 01:08 AM
#4
---
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 568
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
haha yeah he has a point. Otherwise it looks great, and keep up the write-ups. Few people actually take the time to get into details about how they did things (me too) and it would help everyone alot.
Oh and get some metal idler arm bushings. I saw brass ones somewhere, can't remember where... I'll post if I find it.
Oh and get some metal idler arm bushings. I saw brass ones somewhere, can't remember where... I'll post if I find it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
SakeBomb Garage
Group Buy & Product Dev. FD RX-7
8
10-09-15 10:05 PM