Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Well, come to find out that my engine is going. She's getting tired. So here is my next step. I'm going to build a new engine here. What would make more power with these kind of ports? A gslse or s4 13b. I'm thinking of going with the gslse engine cause of the 3mm apex seals.. This engine will breath through a weber 45dcoe that has been preped by me. This will be my first port job. I've attached a photoshop of two port jobs i saw that i want to put togather. The goal is at least 175 bhp. Auto-x car with the acaisional dragrace. Also I don't want to get too close to the water seal or jacket. cause I'd like to get at least 20k miles out of this engine. Think it's possible?

hornbm

id go with the s4 for the lighter rotors personally, and you can allways mill out the rotors for 3mm apex seals if you REALLY want that

REVHED

Why would you want 3mm apex seals? Later model engines run 2mm seals because it's an upgrade.

The best option would be a Series 5 engine due to the high comp. rotors... unless you already have a Series 4 block and an SE block to choose from.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

s5 block is going to be too expensive. Plus s3's and s4's are everywhere... And who says 2mm is an upgrade? 3mm seals are way better for boosted applications. they are more resistant to blowing up from detonation..

hornbm

if your going boosted, and by that im assuming your talking about project GSL-SC, why do you want a 6 port motor??

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

well after deliberation I figure I might as wel go with the s4 13b because it has the same compression ratio as the s3 with lighter rotors. Although would i be sacrificing anything by having 2mm apex seals as oposed to 3mm.And as far as a 6 port goes. you cant get the duration out of a 6 port that you can a 4 port. The gsl-se is open 80* int the intake stroke. on the s4 & s5 they're open 70* into the intake stroke. So in theory there is more durration to push more air into the engine. correct?

SS124A

I have always been a proponent for 2mm seals, until i started doing big ports.
When you go to a really large port the 3mm seals are alot less likely to be sucked out.


if you like that port, there is a guy, on the other forum (if you know what i am saying) who is building/has built a really impressive 6-port bridge.

I like his set-up, nice and progressive.
Which is what you want for an autoX car. Th CSP engine I am building (started the exhaust ports earlier today) will have big differences between the primary and secondary ports.

My only concern for you is the 45DCOE, I fear that this may not be enough carb for you... possibly 2 45DCOE's or a 51 IDA,

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Well I have some custom 40mm chokes I think that'll help. and most peeps I've seen run 48 dcoe with 40mm chokes. Si if I run a 45 with 40mm chokes will it make a difference? if so how?

SS124A

I would still rethink that.

I typcially use a 41mm choke in a 44PHH on a street-port 13B.

because
Mikuni > weber

anyway, all joking aside, going a large half-bridge like what you were originally showing us, i still fear that the Weber 45DCOE may not be enough...

IS this in an FB chassis?

I would consider something else in the induction realm,
Maybe add another 45DCOE...

OR goto the monsterous 50mm DCOE

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

huh, I currently run a 45dcoe and thats why i was oping i cold run it. Does anyone on this forum even run a half bridge? If so what induction are you running? Funny thing is how down hill this forum has gone that only 3 people can engage in a engine building descusion. lol

mcnannay

well ill chime in regarding the 2 vs 3 mm apex seals, im all about the 2mm as well. sure its nice to have the added strength of the 3mm, but seriously, 2mm seal better, which would be better for boost, and they aren't as hard on rotor housings. I personally would never mill out for 3mm, although i do run a 13b with 3mm in it stock

I would also use the s4 because of the oil injection into the rotor housings, although you might even premix and ditch the oil injection.

SS124A

I don't recall who it is, and I am too lazy to search right now, but there is a drag racer using the Atkins seals at like 52PSI.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

52 psi damn.... I don't even know what to say... oil injetion thats that. lol you mean there are seriously people on this site that don't premix?!?!?
hahahahahah ahahahaaaa hahahahhahha
ahhahaha ahah aha hahahahah aha ahh aah aha

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

come one this is an actual technical thread and noone knows anything its soo sad really. Maybe I should ask for a photo shop of what X rims would look like on my car. Then I'd get some responses...

SS124A

I dunno what exactly you are looking for here... How technical do you want to get?

Here is another take on it, S4's are easier/cheaper to attain cores, and parts. The oil-pump can be upgraded easily to one from the TII, the Oil-pump chambers in the front housing are already larger (can be ported to be even better) than the S3.

rotors are lighter, e-shaft, has the oil-bypass system (upgrade using atkins thermal pellet)
2mm seals thru rotary aviation or Atkins is fine. We've kinda beat a dead horse on the 2mm vs 3mm thing... so the extra weight of the -SE rotors def are not worth the 3mm seal pseudo advantage.

I am currently building my 12A for the same sort of multi-application. Going for 200 RWHP.

port your exhaust ports HUGE
mine are 30mm tall, flat on the top (but with 2mm bevel) curves towards bottom, port width is 50mm,

For intake ports I am actually using Judge Ito's FD port for Secondaries, and an old rotary reliabilty killer-bee street-port for the primary. I want to have that low-end grunt (as much as feasible with a rotary) for AutoX.

If you have an -SE core at your disposal, I can use the center housing.

the S4 VS S5 "block" doesn't matter, they are pretty much the same, I have a pile of S5 N/A, and TII housings, if you can use them, the big thing with the S5 is the lighter rotating assembly and higher compression rotors.

on your bridge, I have seen bridges be within 1mm of the water seal.
I think 2mm is much safer if you are concered. My 12A bridgeys always cut well into the water seal, mostly because the water seal is in the rotor housing, and I bevel that anyway.

Again, I would suggest you check out the other forum, where a guy is building a simillar engine, PM me, and I'll get you a link, I don't want to link here....


Otherwise, ask some specific questions, and I'll help you through it. I don't know how in depth you want to go at this point.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Oh my gawd! That was awesome! Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a bunch man!!! Those are the types of things that i wish went on here more often. I guess thats why We've got the other forum...