Rx7 Gsl
08-22-03, 06:25 PM
#6
Dont feel bad man, we were all new once. Some people here just feel it necessary to point out the stupidity in people rather than answering a simple question.
Anyway, yeah, $750 is a good deal for an 84 GSL if its in decent shape. Unfortunatly, there wasnt even a turbo version of the RX-7 available until 1986 or so, and the TWIN turbo version wasnt available until 1993.
~T.J.
Anyway, yeah, $750 is a good deal for an 84 GSL if its in decent shape. Unfortunatly, there wasnt even a turbo version of the RX-7 available until 1986 or so, and the TWIN turbo version wasnt available until 1993.
~T.J.
Last edited by RotorMotorDriver; 08-22-03 at 06:30 PM.
08-22-03, 06:46 PM
#7
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okay thanks you rotor (and since you're so nice, I decided to ask even more of a noobier question...)
what EXACTLY does the Twin Turbo (or monoturbo...) do? (i know cars, I just don't know tihs car, so you can get pretty detailed with me.)
what EXACTLY does the Twin Turbo (or monoturbo...) do? (i know cars, I just don't know tihs car, so you can get pretty detailed with me.)
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08-22-03, 07:23 PM
#8
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Here's some reading material.
How the Rotary engine works.
http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm
How Turbochargers Work
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
How the Rotary engine works.
http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine.htm
How Turbochargers Work
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm
08-22-03, 07:24 PM
#9
Well, first of all, do you understand the basics behind a turbocharged car? If not, check out www.howstuffworks.com and seach for turbo. Read that, and learn there.
Ok, so now you either you know how it works, or you already did. The concept behind the twin turbo design was to try and kill two birds with one stone as I understand it. We all know that a small turbo spools fast and creates boost in the low RPMs, but runs out of steam quickly, leaving you with a lot to be desired in the upper RPMs. A larger turbo is basically the opposite. It takes londer to spool and make boost, but once it does, it delivers power in the upper RPM range. So, on the basic side, the smaller the turbo, the lower in the RPMs the power comes in, and the sooner it will run out of oomph because it doesnt flow enough. The larger the turbo, the higher in the RPMs is spools, and doesnt run out of boost very fast because of the large size and ability to flow well. So, when Mazda made the 3rd gen, they used whats called a sequential twin turbo system. This means that when you first start driving (say from a stop in 1st), you will spool and use the first turbo at 10 PSI, then theres an actuator that will kick in at a certain RPM, and transfer the exhaust energy to the second turbo to start spooling. Usually the boost drops to about 8 PSI during this. After a few more RPMs, the second turbo is spooled and ready to boost, and you once again have 10 PSI of boost. This is known as a 10-8-10 boost pattern when youre checking the engines wear and tear. A perfect 10-8-10 means the turbos are in good shape and operating well. This is all assuming the car is stock BTW. So, by designing the sequential turbo setup, they were able to acomplish the best of both worlds. Boost early on in the low RPMs, as well as upper RPMs by using two turbos, one right after the other.
The 2nd generation RX-7s known as the "Turbo II" only have a single turbo setup, and basically works just like www.howstuffworks.com describes.
I hope that helps you. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. Were all here to learn.
~T.J.
Ok, so now you either you know how it works, or you already did. The concept behind the twin turbo design was to try and kill two birds with one stone as I understand it. We all know that a small turbo spools fast and creates boost in the low RPMs, but runs out of steam quickly, leaving you with a lot to be desired in the upper RPMs. A larger turbo is basically the opposite. It takes londer to spool and make boost, but once it does, it delivers power in the upper RPM range. So, on the basic side, the smaller the turbo, the lower in the RPMs the power comes in, and the sooner it will run out of oomph because it doesnt flow enough. The larger the turbo, the higher in the RPMs is spools, and doesnt run out of boost very fast because of the large size and ability to flow well. So, when Mazda made the 3rd gen, they used whats called a sequential twin turbo system. This means that when you first start driving (say from a stop in 1st), you will spool and use the first turbo at 10 PSI, then theres an actuator that will kick in at a certain RPM, and transfer the exhaust energy to the second turbo to start spooling. Usually the boost drops to about 8 PSI during this. After a few more RPMs, the second turbo is spooled and ready to boost, and you once again have 10 PSI of boost. This is known as a 10-8-10 boost pattern when youre checking the engines wear and tear. A perfect 10-8-10 means the turbos are in good shape and operating well. This is all assuming the car is stock BTW. So, by designing the sequential turbo setup, they were able to acomplish the best of both worlds. Boost early on in the low RPMs, as well as upper RPMs by using two turbos, one right after the other.
The 2nd generation RX-7s known as the "Turbo II" only have a single turbo setup, and basically works just like www.howstuffworks.com describes.
I hope that helps you. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. Were all here to learn.
~T.J.
08-22-03, 07:30 PM
#10
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
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Dont feel bad man, we were all new once. Some people here just feel it necessary to point out the stupidity in people rather than answering a simple question.
But basking in our percieved superiority is so fufilling!
Anyhow, like RMD said, we all start out ignorant, so just ask questions and ignore the haters.
I didn't even know what a rotary engine was before I bought my first RX-7. Now I've owned two of them and have done most of the work myself, with help from a friend.
The '84 GSL is powered by a 101 hp 12A rotary engine, so you aren't buying a screamer. The car is a decent handler however, and is quite fun to drive. If the car isn't rusty and runs, $750 is a good deal.
08-22-03, 09:21 PM
#14
Admitted 'rexaholic'
For 2500 you'll probably be looking for an 84/85 GSL-SE.
That model came with a bigger rotary engine (1.3L 13B as opposed to the 1.1 12A), better brakes and suspension, electronic fuel injection, and other cool stuff.
These cars are a bit more rare than the 12A models, and arguably more desireable.
Also, on any RX-7 you're looking at RUST is the main killer of these beasts. Hidden rust under the storage bins is the #1 spot to look. Many owners don't even know it's there.
Try this; go to a seller, ask if there is any rust on the car. If he doesn't mention the storage bins, ask if you can pull them and see. You'll need a phillips screwdriver.
Pull the seats forward as much as possible, and open the bin door. You'll see several phillips screws around the frame of the bin. Take those out, pull the bin forward. There may be a light at the top of the inside, so you;ll have to do some wiggling and maybe push the top down as it's coming out, watch the wires. Do this to both bins.
After it's completely out, you'll see some padding on the floor area, remove that. There is a 98% probability you'll see rust on this area, and running up the wheel well. There may even be holes. This can be fixed, but I have seen sellers faces turn white when I showed them the rust that they thought wasn't there.
The good news, the price went down on the spot.
Good luck, don't hesitate to ask any questions. Do a search on 'rust', you'll find hours of great reading here.
That model came with a bigger rotary engine (1.3L 13B as opposed to the 1.1 12A), better brakes and suspension, electronic fuel injection, and other cool stuff.
These cars are a bit more rare than the 12A models, and arguably more desireable.
Also, on any RX-7 you're looking at RUST is the main killer of these beasts. Hidden rust under the storage bins is the #1 spot to look. Many owners don't even know it's there.
Try this; go to a seller, ask if there is any rust on the car. If he doesn't mention the storage bins, ask if you can pull them and see. You'll need a phillips screwdriver.
Pull the seats forward as much as possible, and open the bin door. You'll see several phillips screws around the frame of the bin. Take those out, pull the bin forward. There may be a light at the top of the inside, so you;ll have to do some wiggling and maybe push the top down as it's coming out, watch the wires. Do this to both bins.
After it's completely out, you'll see some padding on the floor area, remove that. There is a 98% probability you'll see rust on this area, and running up the wheel well. There may even be holes. This can be fixed, but I have seen sellers faces turn white when I showed them the rust that they thought wasn't there.
The good news, the price went down on the spot.
Good luck, don't hesitate to ask any questions. Do a search on 'rust', you'll find hours of great reading here.
Last edited by mwpayne; 08-22-03 at 09:32 PM.
first gens rock!
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