Hello,

I was wondering if anyone on here had used the brass radiators for FBs from RX7.com? I popped my stock radiator and want to stay as close stock fitment as possible. Is the radiator a straight bolt in? Does it use the same sensor locations as the stock rad? I emailed them a while back and never heard back, as well as calling with no answer, so does anyone know for sure if they are still in business? I saw earlier this year they were, but that can change pretty fast with everything going on.

 

It should be the same style ....with the sensors on the same location and bolt on on the factory bases ....

Or you can go with an aftermarket 3 row . I was going to try to find a factory replacement for mine but went with a aluminum radiator.....

 

This looks to be the same after-market rad I bought for my SA (complete with the cooler lines for the auto tranny, which is fine, just ignore them). Bolts right in, and importantly (well, for me) was the various sensor holes (such as top Level Sensor) are OE. Something the aluminum rads are (from my experience) NOT! Note - photo of raven's has a plug in its place. Plug and play.

Stu A
80GS
AZ

 

Depending on the condition of your "popped" radiator, you may be able to have it refurbed and repaired. I did this many years ago on a classic car with good results.

 

Yes....as Stu said mine has the hole for the low coolant level sensor but our factory sensor is too small for it....I will not be using it....looking for an aluminum plug to insert there......

And that radiator is the same one my 82 had on when I bought her....but I took it to a radiator shop and they tested it and was too bad to fix ...it was better for me to buy a replacement rad....

If you see on this pic of my radiator is the same as your pic from RX7.com

 

I suggest calling them first to make sure they have it. Their website hasn't been updated in a while.

 

Car slipped off the jack and the middle of the radiator is about 2 inches higher than the ends. I could look into it.

 

I have tried calling multiple times and never had anyone pick up.

 

Why it was jacked on the front? There are no jack points there?

 

If the jack slips off the front crossmember the radiator will land on it.

 

That is why you only jack up the car on the designated areas....

My 7 has been on jack stands for two years.....I've taken apart the rear diff completely and the front end completely and it hasn't moved an inch .....

 

How do you raise the front? Even the manual says to use the crossmember as a jacking point.

 

Agree. My car has been on/off/on/off jackstands for 3 years now. The factory jackpoints are flimsy sheetmetal and should only be used in road-side flat tire situations. For garage work use the front cross member and rear-end to lift the car, with jack stands places under the thick "frame rail" parts of the body.

The pinch weld jack points were weak when the cars rolled off the assembly line. 40 years later they are like tinfoil.

 

I lift it up by the cross member also but I use jack stands as soon as it is of the ground..... ..I never leave it on up on the jack there......and you have to use wheel chocks to avoid what happened to you......

 

I was working in a dark garage and rushing to get to an appointment, I couldn't see that the jack was off center (my own vision problems). I am usually more careful and this time it bit me.

Where is that aluminum one from? What have you done in the meantime for the low coolant sensor? I don't mind waiting to figure out a plug situation since I don't know if I can find any close to OEM solution.

 

When using a floor jack, make sure it can move on it's wheels. This helps it not slip off.

 

On my radiator the low coolant level sensor does not fit. I found a page that sells bungs and plugs....got to find out if I can get one with the radiator thread outside and inside the thread of the sensor....if not I'll plug it....no big deal ...

 

What radiator and fan setup is this? Want to go aluminum too.

 

I just went to rx7.com to look at this radiator. The price says $175 but after you put it in the cart, the price says $275. This is before shipping. The site is really outdated and I'm not sure I would trust the online payment.

 

You wouldn't happen to know if this or the other ebay rads will fit with a stock clutch fan?

 

If it's a 12a probably will fit......on a 13b the fan clutch base is a little longer and it may not have the clearance......you will need to take some measurements.....

 

I bought the Koyorad 81-85 aluminum 3 row but haven't installed it yet. Mazdatrix told me it was a direct replacement for both the 12A and 13B cars and would clear the stock clutch fan on either. I have gotten conflicting info here on the forum though. I would think Mazdatdix would know, but I haven't installed it yet. Also many on the forum told me that 12A and GSL-SE cars used a different spacer... but the parts schematic lists the same part # for both engines.

Ill find out one of these days when I install it.

 

It could be made for 12a or 13b but in know that both fan clutch spacers are different......you'll figure it out when you install it......

 

Get a champion racing radiator from eBay. Plus they come with warranty.

 

The front crossmember has two holes in the underside. I put two corresponding bolts through a 2X4, put it under the crossmember, and jack on that. Avoids scraping the paint off the crossmember and the jack saddle fits nicely over the 2X4 -- very secure.