yeah, use heat sink compound.

 

I dont wanna pull my distributor though . If I was gonna do that, I would just swap out the distributor I have laying around with the spare ignitors in . Im gonna try and pull them out and see if that works. If I end up having to pull the whole thing, Ill just swap the distributors.

~T.J.

 

hum, well the dist. is really easy. Just pull the cap off and note where "L1" is relative to the dist., it will be at the mounting tab. Disconnect the ignitor wires, and the vac. hoses. Turn engine (by hand) so that the rotor points to the "L1" location (on the rotor, look for the arrow). Then remove the 10mm nut holding the dist. in. When you take it off you should be able to see (visually) where the nut covered and use those marks when reinstalling so the timing remains unchanged. As you pull the dist. up the rotor will turn a little (slanted gear teeth) watch that to give you a better idea where you start from when reinstalling so the the slight turn brings it back to the "L1" position when seated.
Occasionaly the dist. will be "stuck" and require muscle to dislodge. It should take 2 min. to pull it out. When you leave it in, it gets easier to burgger up the screw heads. Of course you may know all about pulling the dist., in which case disregaurd the above! Nothing really special about ignitors,,,,just easier when dist. is out. oh and they are identical, so it doesn't matter which goes where.

 

Actually, I didnt know how to do it, so thanks . I was ganna ask, but I figured Id just get someone to say something like "get a manual" which I have, just not here to read up. Oh well, thanks for the tips . I plan on trying this sometime soon, so I will try and let you know what happens. I think I may try the DLIDFIS, which requires a little more work, but I have all the stuff to do it with, so why not .

~T.J.

 

I think ignition is a good place to start. Cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coils, ect... The Haynes manual has tests for the ignitors and coils. How's your fuel filter? Is your sub-zero start system still hooked up? If so is the fluid in it any good? (Should be 90% antifreeze 10% water, I believe) If it is hooked up, it's supposed to squirt fluid into the intake when starting the car in extreme cold temperatures to help compression. Most people throw it in the woods next to their rear sway bar and some other assorted goodies that they take off. The ATF trick can't really hurt you at all (the neighbors might hate you for a while for befouling their air when you let that crap burn off )

Good luck, keep us updated, hopefully we can help track down this gremlin.

--matt

 

How are your plugs? Our race car does this Exact thing when the plugs are fouled. We even thought we had a blown motor once, because it was so bad.

I would put some new plugs in there and see what happens.

Good luck,
Mike