Running an 13B w/out oil.
II bought an SE 13B and the previous owner ran the engine w/out oil. The engine doesn’t move at all. I’m thinking about rebuild the engine (w/some upgrades) but before I start this project I will like to know what to expect from this engine. What parts can I re-used (rotors, springs, housings, plates, etc.) from an engine that ran w/out oil? What do I need to buy? I know there are a lot of experience guys out there who probably had the same problem. Any help will be appreciated.
Thank you,
Luism12lm
Thank you,
Luism12lm
But seriously, so much of the engine cooling comes from the oil, I don't think any internal engine parts will be usable. A good rebuild on a rotary is not cheap. Cheap ones typically last about 6 months to 1 year.
With no oil the engine would have generated extreme heat and friction that would destroy almost everything. Rotary's don't like getting overheated!
If you can't turn the e-shaft the engine is locked good. Even with blown apex seals you can usally still turn the engine.
I forget how to do it, but I think you use ATF or something to try and un-lock an engine. But if what you have told us true and the engine was run with no oil until it seized than use it as big boat anchor.
With no oil the engine would have generated extreme heat and friction that would destroy almost everything. Rotary's don't like getting overheated!
If you can't turn the e-shaft the engine is locked good. Even with blown apex seals you can usally still turn the engine.
I forget how to do it, but I think you use ATF or something to try and un-lock an engine. But if what you have told us true and the engine was run with no oil until it seized than use it as big boat anchor.
You will have to pull it down to really know. If you are lucky only one "bearing" glued it's self to the eshaft if not you may not even be able to get it apart.
I would say the eshaft and and all "bearings" will be bad and need replaced.
I would say the eshaft and and all "bearings" will be bad and need replaced.
The 1st rebuild I ever did, it was a practice build, had no oil pressure, galled all 4 bearings and the e-shaft in 6 hours of run time in the shop, mostly at idle. The only thing that saved the rotors, irons and housings was the copious amounts of assembly lube I used.
You can pretty much plan on replaciing everything.. It will probably be easier to start with a completely different engine. A full tear down will tell, but don't count on finding much, if any, in the way of reuseable parts.
You can pretty much plan on replaciing everything.. It will probably be easier to start with a completely different engine. A full tear down will tell, but don't count on finding much, if any, in the way of reuseable parts.
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yeha its toasted i replaced my 12a last year with a rebuilt one from atkinsrotary.com it was 1600 plus i think about like 400 extra for the street port,but the extra 400 is worth it and if your serious about your rx get a new carb and intake from racingbeat.com
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