royal purple
#1
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royal purple
hey I was just wondering if anyone has used royal purple on their 7. if so what are the differences and is it worth the money to use it?
#5
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
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I use it, I switched to I believe castrol for a track day since the RP was getting old. It will last a while longer between changes (5000m). When I went to castrol the engine seemed a bit more sluggish (placebo effect?) but I did notice that my oil temps were higher than with RP. I went back to RP after I got back from the track.
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If you have money to burn, get the royal purple. Otherwise there is nothing wrong with good old GTX. I do feel the RP is worth the money. I did notice a significant increase in performance and I burned a lot less oil when I switched.
#7
The Shadetree Project
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I only use Royal Purple. If you look at cost vs ash vs flash point you can't get a better oil for the cost. Use Castrol GTX if you'd like, but tear down your engine and it will look like **** with all the ash content it leaves behind as it burns. Castrol has one of the higest ash contents of any conventional oil which leads to sludge and leave deposits in the engine. There used to be an awesome website with tons of oils listed and test results of different oils. you'd be amazed on how different oils really make huge differences.
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#9
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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I haven't used it in the crankcase as yet, but I recently switched to their gear lube in the diff and trans, and have been happy with the result so far.
Gear noise dropped noticeably, and it doesn't reek like normal gear oil.
Seeing as I drive so few miles in the 7, I may switch the crankcase to RP on the next change. I've been a loyal Castrol user for decades, but I have a suspicion that a good synthetic would be a better choice for a car that sees occasional use - - it should volatilize less & coat better, allowing for better long-shutdown behavior.
Gear noise dropped noticeably, and it doesn't reek like normal gear oil.
Seeing as I drive so few miles in the 7, I may switch the crankcase to RP on the next change. I've been a loyal Castrol user for decades, but I have a suspicion that a good synthetic would be a better choice for a car that sees occasional use - - it should volatilize less & coat better, allowing for better long-shutdown behavior.
#11
Stu-Tron Get Yo Groove On
iTrader: (4)
I only use Royal Purple. If you look at cost vs ash vs flash point you can't get a better oil for the cost. Use Castrol GTX if you'd like, but tear down your engine and it will look like **** with all the ash content it leaves behind as it burns. Castrol has one of the higest ash contents of any conventional oil which leads to sludge and leave deposits in the engine. There used to be an awesome website with tons of oils listed and test results of different oils. you'd be amazed on how different oils really make huge differences.
#12
RAWR
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I noticed a 5mpg drop in fuel economy over the same distance with similar weather conditions when I switched from RP to GTX. It's a great oil for the motor, however I have had some issues with the trans and 75w90 gear lube. It doesn't seem to work all that great when the transmission is hot. Cold trans, and it shifts silky smooth with RP, but when it gets hot, 2nd grinds, and when it gets really hot, 4th will start to grind (only notice 4th grind on 95-100*F days when driving in city traffic). I think that it's a viscosity issue. I am debating between Red Line 75w90 or Kendall 90w140 (full synthetic) for when I change my gear lube.
#13
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (1)
Wow -- 5mpg is a huge difference. You might want to check if something else changed besides the oil.
I use Mobil 1 0W-40. Mobil is known for the test data they will provide for their lubricants. In addition to its performance right out of the bottle, you want to check some of the factors that matter in a street car, such as:
Lubricity after X miles -- some oils have "volitale" friction modifiers that disappear after a few hundred miles.
Viscositiy after X miles -- same story.
Detergents -- does it have enough to keep your surfaces clean and suspend that junk in the oil?
There are some oils that are great for race cars where the oil only needs to last a few hundred miles, doesn't have to battle with condensation, gets changed before every race, etc. The needs for a street car are a little different.
I am in no way promoting any oil over another, just pointing out some stuff to consider.
I use Mobil 1 0W-40. Mobil is known for the test data they will provide for their lubricants. In addition to its performance right out of the bottle, you want to check some of the factors that matter in a street car, such as:
Lubricity after X miles -- some oils have "volitale" friction modifiers that disappear after a few hundred miles.
Viscositiy after X miles -- same story.
Detergents -- does it have enough to keep your surfaces clean and suspend that junk in the oil?
There are some oils that are great for race cars where the oil only needs to last a few hundred miles, doesn't have to battle with condensation, gets changed before every race, etc. The needs for a street car are a little different.
I am in no way promoting any oil over another, just pointing out some stuff to consider.
#15
RAWR
iTrader: (3)
Wow -- 5mpg is a huge difference. You might want to check if something else changed besides the oil.
I use Mobil 1 0W-40. Mobil is known for the test data they will provide for their lubricants. In addition to its performance right out of the bottle, you want to check some of the factors that matter in a street car, such as:
Lubricity after X miles -- some oils have "volitale" friction modifiers that disappear after a few hundred miles.
Viscositiy after X miles -- same story.
Detergents -- does it have enough to keep your surfaces clean and suspend that junk in the oil?
There are some oils that are great for race cars where the oil only needs to last a few hundred miles, doesn't have to battle with condensation, gets changed before every race, etc. The needs for a street car are a little different.
I am in no way promoting any oil over another, just pointing out some stuff to consider.
I use Mobil 1 0W-40. Mobil is known for the test data they will provide for their lubricants. In addition to its performance right out of the bottle, you want to check some of the factors that matter in a street car, such as:
Lubricity after X miles -- some oils have "volitale" friction modifiers that disappear after a few hundred miles.
Viscositiy after X miles -- same story.
Detergents -- does it have enough to keep your surfaces clean and suspend that junk in the oil?
There are some oils that are great for race cars where the oil only needs to last a few hundred miles, doesn't have to battle with condensation, gets changed before every race, etc. The needs for a street car are a little different.
I am in no way promoting any oil over another, just pointing out some stuff to consider.
The only difference is that it sat in cold storage in the UP of Michigan from November 1 'til mid April.
#16
The Shadetree Project
iTrader: (40)
You still burn engine oil when premixing. the oil seals don't seal out all of the oil, plus oil **** when under stress and burns and forms deposits. Redline, Royal Purple, and Mobile 1 are all top of the line oils, and I highly doubt there are significant differences between them all. All 3 are available locally, but RP is $7 a qart mobile 1 is $8 and Redline is $9. Ams Oil's synthetics are great oils as well.
edit:
I've heard the redline is just mobile 1 with red die. considering mobile 1's synthetics are great products i don't think that's anything to complain about if its true.
edit:
I've heard the redline is just mobile 1 with red die. considering mobile 1's synthetics are great products i don't think that's anything to complain about if its true.
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