Rough over 4.5k, can't get past 6k!
#1
Rough over 4.5k, can't get past 6k!
Hiya.
I have a 1979 5spd SA (FB, whatever).
What happens when I drive is that after about 4.5k, I start loosing the majority of my power. My car starts stuggling to go higher in RPM, and starts shuddering really bad. I can feel the stick start vibrating, and the like in the center near the driver. By 6,000, the tach is at a halt, and my engine sounds like it's going nuts. It won't go about 6. It takes about 10 maybe more seconds to go from 4.5k to 6k.. pretty terrible.
Today my friend and I completely removed the complete exhaust assembely to check for clogs, and we checked the thermal whathaveyou [old version of a cat] for clogs. It was as clean as a whistle..
So now what? What can I try? Someone suggest fuel injector cleaner, but I realized I don't have any fuel injectors. I don't think I've changed the oil in quite some bit.. I might try that. I sort of need a tutorial though, heh, I'm a completely newbie [I'm 16, it's my dads car who completely mistreats it]. Any other easy things I can try, cleaners, etc?
Thanks a bunch,
I have a 1979 5spd SA (FB, whatever).
What happens when I drive is that after about 4.5k, I start loosing the majority of my power. My car starts stuggling to go higher in RPM, and starts shuddering really bad. I can feel the stick start vibrating, and the like in the center near the driver. By 6,000, the tach is at a halt, and my engine sounds like it's going nuts. It won't go about 6. It takes about 10 maybe more seconds to go from 4.5k to 6k.. pretty terrible.
Today my friend and I completely removed the complete exhaust assembely to check for clogs, and we checked the thermal whathaveyou [old version of a cat] for clogs. It was as clean as a whistle..
So now what? What can I try? Someone suggest fuel injector cleaner, but I realized I don't have any fuel injectors. I don't think I've changed the oil in quite some bit.. I might try that. I sort of need a tutorial though, heh, I'm a completely newbie [I'm 16, it's my dads car who completely mistreats it]. Any other easy things I can try, cleaners, etc?
Thanks a bunch,
#4
Originally posted by Manntis
Change the oil! Even if it ain't the cause of yer grief at the mo', rotaries need regular oil changes to last.
Change the oil! Even if it ain't the cause of yer grief at the mo', rotaries need regular oil changes to last.
Argh, pisses me off. It's NOT going to work if you don't stupid ****... anyways.
Link, or some step-by-steps?
#6
Seven Is Coming
iTrader: (1)
Woah...Easy there fella...No ones gonna help you if youre a dick.
Heres a basic oil change:
1. Put your drain pan under the drain plug
2. Punch a hole in the top of the oil filter on the car with a screwdriver
3. Take out the drain plug
4. Let the oil drain
5. Remove the old filter
6. Put the new filter on
7. Put the drain plug back in
8. Cap and remove the drain pan
9. Re-fill with appropriate amount and viscosity of oil (Castrol 20W-50 seems to be popular)
10. Take the used oil to a recycling center (some auto parts stores do this)
~T.J.
Heres a basic oil change:
1. Put your drain pan under the drain plug
2. Punch a hole in the top of the oil filter on the car with a screwdriver
3. Take out the drain plug
4. Let the oil drain
5. Remove the old filter
6. Put the new filter on
7. Put the drain plug back in
8. Cap and remove the drain pan
9. Re-fill with appropriate amount and viscosity of oil (Castrol 20W-50 seems to be popular)
10. Take the used oil to a recycling center (some auto parts stores do this)
~T.J.
#7
Seven Is Coming
iTrader: (1)
Oh yeah, and for your problem, I would suggest you look into fuel delivery (like the fuel filter), and also spark. Check the points and condenser on that thing. It might need a new set. Also, check the timing. Also, go get yourself a manual for it. It will tell you how to do all of these things, and more .
~T.J.
~T.J.
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#9
Seven Is Coming
iTrader: (1)
Are fuel filters easily replaced?
We had the sparks replaced not to long ago. Burned out.
And, what exactly is the timing?
Sorry for the noob questions
~T.J.
#10
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
Heres a basic oil change:
1. Put your drain pan under the drain plug
2. Punch a hole in the top of the oil filter on the car with a screwdriver
3. Take out the drain plug
4. Let the oil drain
5. Remove the old filter
6. Put the new filter on
7. Put the drain plug back in
8. Cap and remove the drain pan
9. Re-fill with appropriate amount and viscosity of oil (Castrol 20W-50 seems to be popular)
10. Take the used oil to a recycling center (some auto parts stores do this)
~T.J.
Heres a basic oil change:
1. Put your drain pan under the drain plug
2. Punch a hole in the top of the oil filter on the car with a screwdriver
3. Take out the drain plug
4. Let the oil drain
5. Remove the old filter
6. Put the new filter on
7. Put the drain plug back in
8. Cap and remove the drain pan
9. Re-fill with appropriate amount and viscosity of oil (Castrol 20W-50 seems to be popular)
10. Take the used oil to a recycling center (some auto parts stores do this)
~T.J.
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2003
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if you still have the problem i suggest borrow some ignicion coils take yours out and put them in and go and try.i tell you because it happened to me once and i change everything from fuel filter to modules but i never though about the coils.the car start and drives fine but when i tried to go over 4nd it was terrible.try this if you still have the problem which i hope not.
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New Zealand
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I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem, but if the secondaries aren't opening your engine wouldn't be very happy at high RPM. It sounds like you aren't getting enough something (fuel or air, or spark, or something else).
I totally agree with RMD.. Get a shop manual. At least check out the ones on iluvmyrxy.com or even better go to the Mazdatrix manual page and buy one for your model. The Haynes manuals are cheap and plenty of people swear by them.
If you need a quick fix it might be time to take it to a "specialist" for a service.
Good luck getting her running smooth!!
..Matt
I totally agree with RMD.. Get a shop manual. At least check out the ones on iluvmyrxy.com or even better go to the Mazdatrix manual page and buy one for your model. The Haynes manuals are cheap and plenty of people swear by them.
If you need a quick fix it might be time to take it to a "specialist" for a service.
Good luck getting her running smooth!!
..Matt
#15
The Shadetree Project
iTrader: (40)
you have chipped the corners off of your apex seals. and have very little compression. i know because i have done this. if you rev it up a little by just blipping the throttle when the rpm's fall if you take off the air filter lid you'll hear it gurgel. thats your problem i'm sure of it. if you continue to drive it it will progressive get worse. eventually you won't be able to rev it over 5k then 4k. but if you change the oil every 1k miles and don't rev it over 3500 you might get it to last for another month or two i got mine to last me until i could afford a swap.
#18
Originally posted by Hyper4mance2k
you have chipped the corners off of your apex seals. and have very little compression. i know because i have done this. if you rev it up a little by just blipping the throttle when the rpm's fall if you take off the air filter lid you'll hear it gurgel. thats your problem i'm sure of it. if you continue to drive it it will progressive get worse. eventually you won't be able to rev it over 5k then 4k. but if you change the oil every 1k miles and don't rev it over 3500 you might get it to last for another month or two i got mine to last me until i could afford a swap.
you have chipped the corners off of your apex seals. and have very little compression. i know because i have done this. if you rev it up a little by just blipping the throttle when the rpm's fall if you take off the air filter lid you'll hear it gurgel. thats your problem i'm sure of it. if you continue to drive it it will progressive get worse. eventually you won't be able to rev it over 5k then 4k. but if you change the oil every 1k miles and don't rev it over 3500 you might get it to last for another month or two i got mine to last me until i could afford a swap.
How sure are you that this is the problem?
#19
FD > FB > FC
Originally posted by Hyper4mance2k
you have chipped the corners off of your apex seals. and have very little compression. i know because i have done this. if you rev it up a little by just blipping the throttle when the rpm's fall if you take off the air filter lid you'll hear it gurgel. thats your problem i'm sure of it. if you continue to drive it it will progressive get worse. eventually you won't be able to rev it over 5k then 4k. but if you change the oil every 1k miles and don't rev it over 3500 you might get it to last for another month or two i got mine to last me until i could afford a swap.
you have chipped the corners off of your apex seals. and have very little compression. i know because i have done this. if you rev it up a little by just blipping the throttle when the rpm's fall if you take off the air filter lid you'll hear it gurgel. thats your problem i'm sure of it. if you continue to drive it it will progressive get worse. eventually you won't be able to rev it over 5k then 4k. but if you change the oil every 1k miles and don't rev it over 3500 you might get it to last for another month or two i got mine to last me until i could afford a swap.
I think my secondaries might have been gummed up as well. But I had zilch for power, and the thing couldnt get above 5K. It was right after I bought it too, becuase when we had to get it emissions tested, it scored a whoping ~1200 hydrocarbons at idle!
Can't wait till my 13b runs!
#20
Originally posted by hornbm
Yep that was ultimately the problem with my old 12a. Never did figure out exactly what it was untill I pulled the engine apart to figure out that one of the apex seals on my rear rotor had gone.
I think my secondaries might have been gummed up as well. But I had zilch for power, and the thing couldnt get above 5K. It was right after I bought it too, becuase when we had to get it emissions tested, it scored a whoping ~1200 hydrocarbons at idle!
Can't wait till my 13b runs!
Yep that was ultimately the problem with my old 12a. Never did figure out exactly what it was untill I pulled the engine apart to figure out that one of the apex seals on my rear rotor had gone.
I think my secondaries might have been gummed up as well. But I had zilch for power, and the thing couldnt get above 5K. It was right after I bought it too, becuase when we had to get it emissions tested, it scored a whoping ~1200 hydrocarbons at idle!
Can't wait till my 13b runs!
#22
FD > FB > FC
Originally posted by Wompa164
Did your engine ever go out? If so, how long?
Did your engine ever go out? If so, how long?
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