Rotary Rebuild.
Rotary Rebuild.
Im planning on rebuilding my engine soon. I live in WV so its hard to find a good Rotary rebuild shop... is it easy to do yourself? I have a 12A with 150,000 miles on it. Is it time for a rebuild? If so im unsure of the condition inside, so far the closest place to me in Rotary ressurection but they can only use your engine so if mine is in bad condition whats the use? Where can i buy a Turbo 12A that was made in japan? Will bolt right up the original spot of the NA 12A?
Follow the instructions in the shop manual To A Damned T and you'll be fine.
Hell, after a half-dozen engines, I still build it precisely by the book (aside from main bearing clearances in race engines). Only failures I've had have been due to other failures (oiling, forgetting ****, etc.)
The more seals and springs you replace, the better you'll be. I highly recommend signing up for Mazda Motorsports, and running the 2 solo events required to obtain it after you do the rebuild. You get factory parts at cost, instead of paying the dealer's or anybody else's markup.
On the seals, fit is the most important. When you read the book, which you'll do while you're rebuilding, it says to make sure all the seals have full range of motion. They aren't kidding -- make sure all the seals have proper movement. Even after a handfull of engines I still spend the most time making sure the apex, corner, and side seals all have the proper amount of rebound. A little wet or dry paper is all you need to clearance them (make sure to wipe them down before you put them in the rotor after clearancing!)
Hell, after a half-dozen engines, I still build it precisely by the book (aside from main bearing clearances in race engines). Only failures I've had have been due to other failures (oiling, forgetting ****, etc.)
The more seals and springs you replace, the better you'll be. I highly recommend signing up for Mazda Motorsports, and running the 2 solo events required to obtain it after you do the rebuild. You get factory parts at cost, instead of paying the dealer's or anybody else's markup.
On the seals, fit is the most important. When you read the book, which you'll do while you're rebuilding, it says to make sure all the seals have full range of motion. They aren't kidding -- make sure all the seals have proper movement. Even after a handfull of engines I still spend the most time making sure the apex, corner, and side seals all have the proper amount of rebound. A little wet or dry paper is all you need to clearance them (make sure to wipe them down before you put them in the rotor after clearancing!)
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