rookie needs advice....help !!!!
#1
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rookie needs advice....help !!!!
Just bought first rotary...won't crank..no compression on T1, and L1 plugs...what do I look for?
engine has 70,000 miles, all stock...
L2 has 120 lbs. compression, T2 has 95...
need link to overhaul proceedure and parts, gaskets, etc...as well as advice from someone to help me start...thanks guys, I know there is someone out there that knows...
engine has 70,000 miles, all stock...
L2 has 120 lbs. compression, T2 has 95...
need link to overhaul proceedure and parts, gaskets, etc...as well as advice from someone to help me start...thanks guys, I know there is someone out there that knows...
#3
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From what I hear from most people is that you can use a regular engine compression tool and just have someone hold the pressure release while you turn it over. You will get three spikes that are the compression ratings of each side of the rotor you are checking.
#4
Seven Is Coming
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If there is no compression on the front rotor at all, its definatly time for a rebuild. Read the manual (Haynes), it will tell you what you need to know to rebuild the engine. Also, get yourself a new rebuild kit. You can get them from places like Atkins Rotary (www.atkinsrotary.com), Racing Beat (www.racingbeat.com), MazdaTrix (www.mazdatrix.com), Revoloution Rotary (www.revoloutionrotary.com), etc... Good luck .
~T.J.
~T.J.
#5
Seven Is Coming
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Originally posted by alien_rx7
From what I hear from most people is that you can use a regular engine compression tool and just have someone hold the pressure release while you turn it over. You will get three spikes that are the compression ratings of each side of the rotor you are checking.
From what I hear from most people is that you can use a regular engine compression tool and just have someone hold the pressure release while you turn it over. You will get three spikes that are the compression ratings of each side of the rotor you are checking.
I believe that the actual compression tester turns the engine over at a specific RPM to read the compression, and it also takes some very precise measurments .
~T.J.
#6
other ways to check compression...
remove the L1 spark plug, disconnect all the spark plug wires, and have someone crank it over and listen for 3 distinct "pulses". They should all sound about the same... so if you get
...Pooosh...Poosh...(nothing)...Poosh...
You have a bad chamber.
Do the same for the T2.
You can learn alot just from listening.
remove the L1 spark plug, disconnect all the spark plug wires, and have someone crank it over and listen for 3 distinct "pulses". They should all sound about the same... so if you get
...Pooosh...Poosh...(nothing)...Poosh...
You have a bad chamber.
Do the same for the T2.
You can learn alot just from listening.
#7
RotorMotorDriver:
yes, I believe it measures the RPM, and for the most accurate reading the RPM shoulb be ~850.
compression should be between 8-9 for each chamber.
Less than 7 means you need a rebuild.
I had mine tested in March but I can't find the paper right now.
yes, I believe it measures the RPM, and for the most accurate reading the RPM shoulb be ~850.
compression should be between 8-9 for each chamber.
Less than 7 means you need a rebuild.
I had mine tested in March but I can't find the paper right now.
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