gerald m

I can't speak for anyone else or other machines but mine is mounted to the side of the dizzy it just has a round male push plug and plugs into the power wire that feeds the coils.. ( it is the end of the line ) As I said earlier before I get jumped on there are those that say they are useless I just don't agree ..

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

hmmm. I guess it wouldnt be contributing too much to my problem then. im going to look into my ground situation. thanks

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

The condensor on the 1st gen dizzy is there for noise suppression so you don't hear
the ignition on the radio. Thats all it does from my understanding. Mines not hooked
up and it doesn't affect my radio reception at all. Maybe it only affects AM, in that
case I would ever notice.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The cap (condenser) is a noise suppression cap based on the schematics I've seen - it's there mainly to help keep the ignitor coil signals clean, to prevent a misfire due to induced noise. A holdover in part from the 80 remote-ignition-box design, where that tiny coil signal had to traverse a 3-foot shielded cable before reaching the ignitors.

gerald m

My condenser had the wire pulled off so I switched it

gerald m

Well I certainly won't argue with experience .but I still think they should be in place

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Ok, now I have to go look at the schematics and see what the case is. I thought it
was noise suppression for the radio but maybe it does help the signal from the
dizzy to the ignitors as well. Hmmm.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

So do I. There's no benefit to removing it, and if it helps prevent misfire, then why pull it?

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Good point. I'm going to do my battery relocation (finally) and make my grounds all separate, instead of a pile of them under one bolt on the shock tower. Maybe it will help, couldn't hurt. Going to wait to put my new factory coils in...hopefully I gain some confidence with the wiring changes/redo

gerald m

My grounds are mostly separate not to many on one spot buff everything up really good before attaching . take your time and make sure the wires are not broken inside the wire insulation ..

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Keep in mind the wide difference in conductivity between steel and copper. Provide heavy-gauge copper interconnect for all your grounds if you want maximum performance; the automaker trick of just grounding stuff to the body to save on wire is a cost-cutting choice, not an electrical efficiency choice.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Better grounds are what...the engine and tranny i suppose?

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Well, the engine, tranny (starter), alternator, and body all need solid gorunds, but the "best" ground is the negative side of the battery. It's the ground reference point for the entire car.

Whole point of grounding is to have every ground point be equipotential to the battery negative post, as closely as possible, and with high current-carrying capacity to make sure it stays that way under load.

The starter ground needs the heaviest current-carrying capacity of all, since the starter draws upwards of 500 amps under full load. That's why the heavy battery negative cable goes direct from the battery post to the starter ground point.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

So maybe i should look into grounding at a common point, similar to the stock idea, but clean it up better...or spread it out more

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Just making it more efficient

gerald m

Depending on how many grounds you have . Don.t spread it out to much it will just make it messy Like DivinDriver said keep it simple and clean you could even make a grounding block with 3 or 4 posts on it ,run your battery ground to the block and then run all the smaller grounds to posts on the grounding block we use to do it that way on heavy equipment and it worked very well.. then every thing has the same common ground.. I'm not saying you need large ground wires but a wire with say 20 strands is much more efficient than say one with 5 or 6 strands .. and is also much more flexible .. Flexible wire is much less likely to break than the more rigid types .. but I think we are getting a little to technical .. Just run them ,make sure they have good crimped ends and keep everything clean you could even put just a tad of electrical conductive grease on things to help stop corrosion and enhance electrical flow, good stuff but you only need a little .

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Thats exactly what i was thinking of doing. I have my supply of diectric grease...just need a block for the grounds.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Dielectric grease is NOT conductive... it is a highly efficient insulator, which is what 'dielectric' means.

gerald m

Dielectric grease is not what you should use ,,( it is for keeping out moisture and helps stop corrosion but it does not enhance electrical flow you need electrical conductive grease which has metal particles in it ) .. just google it and you should find what I mean .. you are thinking on the right track ..

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

So that stuff is better suited for connectors and plugs rather than terminals or bolt-down connections?

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Or is it just used to keep the outside of a connection sealed to prevent corrosion or whatnot?

gerald m

It could be used on plug wire end boots to prevent the boot from leaking power down the side of the spark plug and at the same time helping to keep moisture out ... NOTE after a lengthy period of time it does start to break down the silicone boots but rotary wires don't last long enough to be concerned about it.. where ever you are connecting electrical wires ELECTRICAL CONDUCTIVE GREASE should be used if you use anything .. Put the dielectric grease away somewhere you never look so that you will forget about it ..

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Lol ok ok. Im not having much luck finding any electrical conductive grease or compound (copper). Maybe i shouldnt worry about it too much

gerald m

Good plan, enough said.. GET TO WORK!!

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

U betcha. I will keep u guys updated.