Ride height/suspension "stance"
#1
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Ride height/suspension "stance"
Hi,
I've searched for a few things and I'd like to consolidate some points that I've read WRT suspension height and stiffness.
I've read a few things that say that a 1st gen needs to have the rear of the car, overall, lower than the front to "align the roll centres". The difference I've seen spoken/written about is about 10mm (or .4 of an inch, near enough to 1/2 an inch).
What ride height do the typical aftermarket springs in the US have a 1st gen at? What, if anything, is the "ideal" suspension height front and rear (and yes, I am looking for peejay to bite here).
Ben
I've searched for a few things and I'd like to consolidate some points that I've read WRT suspension height and stiffness.
I've read a few things that say that a 1st gen needs to have the rear of the car, overall, lower than the front to "align the roll centres". The difference I've seen spoken/written about is about 10mm (or .4 of an inch, near enough to 1/2 an inch).
What ride height do the typical aftermarket springs in the US have a 1st gen at? What, if anything, is the "ideal" suspension height front and rear (and yes, I am looking for peejay to bite here).
Ben
Last edited by Saru; 05-09-04 at 10:40 PM.
#2
Old [Sch|F]ool
NO NO NO. You do NOT want the rear roll center aligned with the center of gravity, which is what happens when you lower a lot and retain the Watts link.
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Ri-ight. Because that increases binding of the Watts link, yes?
So, let's assume that I want to keep the standard suspension geometry but can afford new shocks, springs sway-bars and bushes. What do I do?
So, let's assume that I want to keep the standard suspension geometry but can afford new shocks, springs sway-bars and bushes. What do I do?
#4
Old [Sch|F]ool
No, it's because when the CG and the roll center are in line, the suspension doesn't move at all. It just picks the inside tire off the ground. Nothing to do with what kind of linkage it has, it's simply the sideways forces (the CG) pushing directly on the suspension's virtual pivot point (the roll center).
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OK, then.
Let's talk numbers. Ride height front and rear? Spring weights/rates? Sway bar presence or absence? Front and rear sway bar thickness?
Let's talk numbers. Ride height front and rear? Spring weights/rates? Sway bar presence or absence? Front and rear sway bar thickness?
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
Buy the g-force engineering 1st gen setup manual... So I can read it!
http://www.gforceengineering.net/products.htm
http://www.gforceengineering.net/products.htm
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Originally posted by peejay
NO NO NO. You do NOT want the rear roll center aligned with the center of gravity, which is what happens when you lower a lot and retain the Watts link.
NO NO NO. You do NOT want the rear roll center aligned with the center of gravity, which is what happens when you lower a lot and retain the Watts link.
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Originally posted by REVHED
No one said anything about aligning the roll center with the center of gravity. I believe the articles he's refering to were talking about aligning the FRONT and REAR roll centers. What's your take on that?
No one said anything about aligning the roll center with the center of gravity. I believe the articles he's refering to were talking about aligning the FRONT and REAR roll centers. What's your take on that?
This is the start of the article:
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/RH99_RX7_a.htm
Ben
#9
Old [Sch|F]ool
Originally posted by REVHED
No one said anything about aligning the roll center with the center of gravity. I believe the articles he's refering to were talking about aligning the FRONT and REAR roll centers. What's your take on that?
No one said anything about aligning the roll center with the center of gravity. I believe the articles he's refering to were talking about aligning the FRONT and REAR roll centers. What's your take on that?
The roll *couple* is the distance from the CG to the roll center - how much leverage the body has on the suspension.
To make the roll couples the same front/rear, you need to lengthen the rear roll couple and shorten the front. In the rear you either lower the rear roll center (Watts link) or you raise the CG away from the roll center (lifting). In the front you either raise the front roll center by ball joint spacers (go between steering arm and strut body, to change the angle of the lower control arm's line) or... by LIFTING.
Now, grasshopper, you SEE the method to my madness. MADNESS! AH-hahahaha!!
- Pete (cue dramatic thunderclap)
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Can you see how my rear end is jacked up?
I'm running 260s on the rear, it's nearly two inches higher than the front, which sport 205s, Konis adjusted pretty stiff, RB springs, and the rear bar is still in place (with the help of matching 1/2 inch driver sockets used as spacers.
One would think it would be squirrly as hell, but I can drift perfectly balanced if I try, though it does have more push.
Did I just get lucky? I mean, it's such a cob-jobbed set up all in an effort to shoehorn those nasty tires I happened to have into the fenders.
I'm running 260s on the rear, it's nearly two inches higher than the front, which sport 205s, Konis adjusted pretty stiff, RB springs, and the rear bar is still in place (with the help of matching 1/2 inch driver sockets used as spacers.
One would think it would be squirrly as hell, but I can drift perfectly balanced if I try, though it does have more push.
Did I just get lucky? I mean, it's such a cob-jobbed set up all in an effort to shoehorn those nasty tires I happened to have into the fenders.
#11
Old [Sch|F]ool
I dunno, if you didn't change the distance between the rear axle and the body, you didn't alter anything meaningful as far as geometry goes.
Well cancel that... you'd have raised the CG and roll center at the same time, for the same distance, so the rear's resistance to leaning is the same but now the car wants to lean more since the CG is higher off the ground - resulting in easier to unweight the inside rear tire.
Well cancel that... you'd have raised the CG and roll center at the same time, for the same distance, so the rear's resistance to leaning is the same but now the car wants to lean more since the CG is higher off the ground - resulting in easier to unweight the inside rear tire.
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Originally posted by peejay
I dunno, if you didn't change the distance between the rear axle and the body, you didn't alter anything meaningful as far as geometry goes.
Well cancel that... you'd have raised the CG and roll center at the same time, for the same distance, so the rear's resistance to leaning is the same but now the car wants to lean more since the CG is higher off the ground - resulting in easier to unweight the inside rear tire.
I dunno, if you didn't change the distance between the rear axle and the body, you didn't alter anything meaningful as far as geometry goes.
Well cancel that... you'd have raised the CG and roll center at the same time, for the same distance, so the rear's resistance to leaning is the same but now the car wants to lean more since the CG is higher off the ground - resulting in easier to unweight the inside rear tire.
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