81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

Hey Guys,

I'm going to be beginning my REW swap here in a couple weeks and just want to make sure I've got everything in line. I'm going to be running a single Holset (haven't decided on size yet) and a standalone, so I'm not too worried about making the twins fit or wiring up all the extra non-sense. I'm also planning on running Billy's R&P crossmemmber conversion kit so I'm not worried about the oil pan issues as re-locating the steering linkages will fix that issue. My only concern is mounitng, will I be able to mount the rew in using a 12a front cover and switching to a 2nd gen CAS and removing the 3rd gen crank sensor? Also does anyone no what the shifter location is on the REW trans compared to a T2? Will minor cutting of the trans tunnel be enough to clear the shifter? I'm also wondering if I should go sumped intank pump or if running an Aeromotive A1000 will be enough.

Thanks for the input guys!

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

I am just finishing the same swap into my 85. I used the gslse front cover, oil pan and fc CAS. To make oil pan fit i had to drill and tap 3 holes at the back of engine. Other than that it dropped right in.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I'd use the GSL-SE front cover. It has a 4 line MOP as opposed to the 12A 2 line one. Be sure to drill and tap a turbo oil return port before installing the front cover. Not sure how the 3rd gen tranny will fit, shifter or mounting wise. You can use a TII tranny on the REW. IIRC, there's a write-up in the archives on modding the TII tranny to move the shifter forward. If not, blwfly modded one to fit in his REPU. Check the Other Rotary section or PM him.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Guys!... I'm actually wanting to run the stock oil pan, I figured it should be possible with Billy's R&P conversion since the steering linkage will now be in front of the oil pan. I'd rather not go through the extra hassle of finding a decent SE oil pan and pick up. Since I'll be premixing I should be able to use the 12a cover right? I'll be premixing since I've lost an engine before do to a faulty OMP, and don't want to go through that again.


Rotorican... are you running the 3rd gen tranny or t2? Stock ECU or single and standalone. If wiring up the stock ECU and such won't be too much of a nightmare I may go that route for now and then do the single swap and standalone. The engine is freshly rebuilt by Kilo so it'd probably be smarter to break it in on the stock ECU. Any thoughts?

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

I have been doing some researching over the past few months to do a similar swap. I am only speaking from my own research and not first hand knowledge.

I have done the rack swap - just go slow and follow the directions - its not too difficult. I'm not sure if you can use the FD pan or not, so I'll assume the rack solves that problem but I don't know.

It is my understanding that this is correct.

I have seen the REW trannys go in w/o too much modification; however, everything I have researched says the TII tranny is a much easier swap, and the clutches are cheaper! The REW can be done - and someone did a write up on it and explaind how to modify it to get it to work. Do some searching to find it in the FB forum (not the archives).

Can't help you on that one. I'd just get a high flow external pump, and I'm not familiar w/ the A1000 to give any advice on it.

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

Im running a T2 tranny and a microtech Lt-10 ecu. The turbo i am using is a T78 on a gato performance manifold, and a cosmo 13B-RE intake.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yes on the 12A front cover. Also, for those using oil injection, the REW only has TWO, and the 12A front cover MOP only has two. But be warned; I've had a couple of MOPs leak after the rotor housing injector hook up. Prossibly due to the higher pressure required to feed oil past the small orifices in the rotor housing brass jet things. The GSL-SE and later MOPs all had bolt on lines but all earlier ones were push on and probably constructed slightly differently from the possibly beefier bolt on type, which must withstand higher pressures. Heck they were designed for boosted rotaries, not that much boost could leak back down the lines but it makes sense.

rotorican85

iTrader: (9)

I used the 12a front cover when my setup was a S5 and had no leak issues...nohing a few well placed zip ties wont cure. I did use the s5 injectors with the 12a OMP.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

all great info guys!.. Thanks!... Looks like I've got a little more homework to complete.

Keith I'm in winter Park... where are you in Orlando?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Heh, I nearly forgot to post this. I too am doing an FD swap into an '83 FB for a fellow rotorhead. Will the stock twins fit a 1st gen engine bay?

So you've got to drill and tap a couple of oil pan bolts on the rear plate? Nice! I like these types of mods. Makes sense since the FD had a leak-prone motor mount setup back there, with some like 12mm bolts or something.

Hmm, what do you guys do about the 110psi oil pressure of an FD? Still use your stock FB oil cooler and lines? I'm sure the undersized FD coolers would be more troublesome to install than they're worth in cooling capacity.

I imagine an S4 waterpump would be just fine. I'll probably use the T2 type for its turbo water return fitting. I've got one of those sitting here to use.

How much do you port your engines? I'm thinking this much: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1285211438

and this much for the primary (Sorry it's starting out at the oddball 20B shape, but you get the idea of the finished product) https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1285433505

and the roughly cut, nearly finished port: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1285433505

Has anyone seen this little temp sender fitting?

All FDs have a BSP sender. The stock one is a flat quick disconnect and may be different impedancewise. If you buy this other fitting, it will work correctly with your stock guage and fit the stock bullet connector wiring. I got one because This FD core was missing it. MZTX link: http://www.mazdatrix.com/79-85Electrical-Engine.htm

Any other FD stuff we need to know about?

Keith13b

iTrader: (6)

On the east side - Near UCF - Dean Rd and University Blvd area.

Once I get mine all road worthy again, we should meet up. I'd love to see the swap once its done!


@Jeff20b : Thanks for the extra info! I'm don't know what port sizes to use either. I was going to cross that bridge once I get serious with parts in hand. You could call Pettit in Ft. Lauderdale - that was what I was planing on doing.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

Sounds good... PM me your PH#.

Jeff,

Are you going to run the FD trans or a T2?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

FC NA trans for now, since that's all I have, and it's compatible with the RB SS clutch, starter, driveshaft etc. Then a T2 tranny will go in after the engine is fully broken in and the boost is able to be turned up. No sense doing it all at the same time if pulling a tranny is easy, which for me it kinda is, plus I save money as the engine build itself will range up to a grand (assuming I don't need to get some housings etc). That's a large chunk eating into the tranny budget at this time. I'm sure others will choose to do it all at the same time but I can piece it together over a longer period of time and gain experience points along the way, since I'm doing all the work myself, well with PercentSevenC's help too.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I spoke to Pettit back in the late 90s when their Banzai 20B was the hot ticket. But I think I've settled on a nice port size and shape.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Question about ECUs. I know a MegaSquirt 2.2 board can easily control the high imedance injectors of an FD, and the TPS is full range instead of a switch like the GSL-SE and S4. What I don't know about is how well the ignition stuff works. Things like LT split and stuff.

Also, can the stock twins fit an FB engine bay? Should I even bother especially since large single turbos are heaps better?

Next question: does it need 3.5" exhasut to reach 400HP? Or is the current 3" good enough? Staying with 3" would be prefered since it's already built.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

Lol... Jeff you keep taking the words right out of my mouth.. lol

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I remember when your car was for sale not that long ago. I was actually interested in buying it, to swap my setup over to it.

I decided against it since I already have an (uninstalled) Mariah Kit in my garage, and my Ford 8.8 rear is not a simple bolt-in, nor is my 6 point cage.

In the end it would just be easier to install the Mariah kit on my car (eventually)

Since you are going to keep your car, and go boosted -for simplicity's sake:

• Use any 84/85 Front cover (they already have the recess for the oil return).
• Use a S4 TII Tranny (easy to mount vs S5 TII).
• Modify the S4 TII Tranny to use the back half of your 1st Gen Tranny
• Use a single Turbo and manifold.
• Use a 2nd Gen Crank Angle Sensor
• Use whatever ECU Kilo (or whatever tuner you have) uses.
• 3" exhaust is good for at least 600whp on a two rotor (I've personally seen it several times)

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I had forgotten about the S4 TII tranny being easier to deal with. Thanks.

So 3" is good for up to 600HP? That's great news! Thanks! This means the white REPU will need a couple of 3" components. Hehe.

john smack

iTrader: (12)

there is a fb in town here with a 13brew shoe horned in and he has no clearance issues with the stock twins. the only problem he had was with the water filler neck.. he had to cut it and modify it a bit.
I went for a ride in this car and a fb with a fd motor in it is very quick and resposive.. the sequential turbos come on very nice

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

Yeah.... I was going to sell her... but couldn't bring myself to do it. Now that the better half has given me the ok for the swap, I've fallen back in love with her all over again. (the car and the fiancé)...

Thanks for the input... looks like the consensus is to go with a T2 trans. Now I'm weighing weather to go with the REW or an S4 T2. I found a local REW engine/trans/harness (everything) locally for $1900 that was just rebuilt by Kilo. Which will require the need for a standalone, single turbo, and changing the clutch and flywheel to go with the T2 trans. On the other hand I can by a JDM S4 T2 for 1200, but it has an auto attached to it. So I'd still need the clutch and flywheel, plus I'll need to rebuild it before installing. But, I could run around on the stock turbo and ecu for a bit until I scrape together a few more nickels for a bigger turbo and a standalone. Decisions.. decisions....

Anybody have an opinion on the matter? I'm thinking I'll be 2200 into the S4 between buying and rebuilding... and 1900 for an REW that's been rebuilt is a smokin deal.... man am I confused!

john smack

iTrader: (12)

I would prob just swap in a TII motor for now and upgrade as you go but i dont know how long of a project or how deep of pockets you have.

It will be expensive buying everything for the fd motor although the rebuild is nice

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I would go with Kilo's engine. That there is worth alot by itself.

I would sell (or trade) the FD Tranny , with the money left over from that, buy an S4 TII tranny and other go fast bits.

Don't bother with the stock ECU, that
is the very last piece of the puzzle.

Save up and run whatever ECU Kilo runs.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

good call Directfreak, (Alex is your name right?). The 7 is no longer my daily driver so I guess I could just pick up the engine/trans and start pulling the 12a out and all the other misc stuff, and start selling it. the FD trans sell for a little more than a T2 trans so I'll at least break even there. I've got an intercooler and piping already lined up for pretty cheap, I can pick up a Holset Hx40 for a few hundred and there's a local guy making stainless manifolds for $150 up here.

Does anyone know if the T2 clutch will bolt to a stock FD flywheel? I know the FD trans is a pull type throw-out bearing, other than that is there any major differences? If I can run a T2 clutch, then I've got a line on a lightly used one locally for cheap as well. Can't thank you guys enough for the insight!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm in the middle of pulling the 4 port 13B from my FB right now. Just got the exhaust out of the way. Gonna grab the engine crane in a minute. This is kind of exciting!

This FD engine could go in my car for break in as soon as it's built, but I've got a forum member you all know and love just itching to buy it.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it's Alex.

You need a RB lite (steel) flywheel for the TII, along with the TII counterweight.

I really would love to see your car done with a single Turbo - it's what it needs.
You'll have the muscle to back it up.



I am sure after driving it N/A for all these years, you have had plenty of people challenge you.
It's going to be nice to answer them if need be, lol.