reviving an '84 GSL-SE
12-10-06, 03:53 PM
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reviving an '84 GSL-SE
So, i picked up a 1984 GSL-SE. its ben parked for 2 years though. THe owner did start it regularly though, and the engine appears to come back strong with just a little love (draing the gas tank, new fuel pump+filter etc.)
so some things outstanding now, are:
1.) new fuel pump is LOUD. Not sure if its the brnd of pump, as its nto MAZDA made, or if its just a thing that 1st gen FI cars have?
2.) Brakes. i have fluid in the master, but no brake pressure to speak of. Now at this poinmt i'm thinking either airs in teh lines, and it needs to be bled. or the calipers have all seized, which is definitely more expensive to fix. Anyone have experience that would tell them theres soemthing else to check? whichis most likley?
3.) it is a bitch to start. the previous owner put in a switch to kill the fuel pump, so 'm guessing he did this to control flooding, but that isn't my problem i think. I have to jump it to get it going after much coaxing. i think the battery is good in it, but even when wired up it cranks too slowly to light up the first few times. is this an indicator of bad wiring? not enough power? or a weak starter?
any thoughts anyone?
i'm keen to get it on the road, teh previous owner kept the body and interior in near pristine condition, and maintained the motor very well.
the only real damage it shows is from sitting for so long, lots of rust and corrosion underneath. And in teh wheelwells under teh bins, theres the only rust, and i am not sure how to judge how bad, but theres definite holes that will need to be cut out and replaced.
other than that it looks like it stepped right out of 1984 otherwise.
so some things outstanding now, are:
1.) new fuel pump is LOUD. Not sure if its the brnd of pump, as its nto MAZDA made, or if its just a thing that 1st gen FI cars have?
2.) Brakes. i have fluid in the master, but no brake pressure to speak of. Now at this poinmt i'm thinking either airs in teh lines, and it needs to be bled. or the calipers have all seized, which is definitely more expensive to fix. Anyone have experience that would tell them theres soemthing else to check? whichis most likley?
3.) it is a bitch to start. the previous owner put in a switch to kill the fuel pump, so 'm guessing he did this to control flooding, but that isn't my problem i think. I have to jump it to get it going after much coaxing. i think the battery is good in it, but even when wired up it cranks too slowly to light up the first few times. is this an indicator of bad wiring? not enough power? or a weak starter?
any thoughts anyone?
i'm keen to get it on the road, teh previous owner kept the body and interior in near pristine condition, and maintained the motor very well.
the only real damage it shows is from sitting for so long, lots of rust and corrosion underneath. And in teh wheelwells under teh bins, theres the only rust, and i am not sure how to judge how bad, but theres definite holes that will need to be cut out and replaced.
other than that it looks like it stepped right out of 1984 otherwise.
12-10-06, 05:43 PM
#2
what brand of pump did you put in? The weak battery sounds like a possibility. You probably have the origional power and ground cables from the battery. This would be a good time to replace those. If your engine is cranking i wouldn't worry about the starter. Just don't crank on it for 30 seconds, that'll kill it.
It will probably be suggested that you do a full tune-up, which would be plugs-wires-cap-rotor. Flush your brake fluid while you bleed them, a good coolant flush, dump some seafoam in the oil and run for a few miles, change oil. Run through a couple cans of seafoam on a low tank of gas to help clean things up. it might be a good idea to have your injectors pulled and cleaned depending on how ambitious you are. If they leak, they're gonna flood your engine causing hard startup. Here's a couple things to get you started! Have fun
It will probably be suggested that you do a full tune-up, which would be plugs-wires-cap-rotor. Flush your brake fluid while you bleed them, a good coolant flush, dump some seafoam in the oil and run for a few miles, change oil. Run through a couple cans of seafoam on a low tank of gas to help clean things up. it might be a good idea to have your injectors pulled and cleaned depending on how ambitious you are. If they leak, they're gonna flood your engine causing hard startup. Here's a couple things to get you started! Have fun
12-10-06, 05:49 PM
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might want to try a new master cyl. for the brakes, or rebuild yours.
battery sound skeptical and your wires prbably need cleaned at the contact points, ground, starter,...
i just got done getting an se back on the road after 6 years and all i did was replace the gas tank, fuel pump, and filter. not to mention the obvious fluid changes and battery.
battery sound skeptical and your wires prbably need cleaned at the contact points, ground, starter,...
i just got done getting an se back on the road after 6 years and all i did was replace the gas tank, fuel pump, and filter. not to mention the obvious fluid changes and battery.
12-10-06, 06:35 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Captain Lou
So, i picked up a 1984 GSL-SE. its ben parked for 2 years though. THe owner did start it regularly though, and the engine appears to come back strong with just a little love (draing the gas tank, new fuel pump+filter etc.)
so some things outstanding now, are:
1.) new fuel pump is LOUD. Not sure if its the brnd of pump, as its nto MAZDA made, or if its just a thing that 1st gen FI cars have?
2.) Brakes. i have fluid in the master, but no brake pressure to speak of. Now at this poinmt i'm thinking either airs in teh lines, and it needs to be bled. or the calipers have all seized, which is definitely more expensive to fix. Anyone have experience that would tell them theres soemthing else to check? whichis most likley?
3.) it is a bitch to start. the previous owner put in a switch to kill the fuel pump, so 'm guessing he did this to control flooding, but that isn't my problem i think. I have to jump it to get it going after much coaxing. i think the battery is good in it, but even when wired up it cranks too slowly to light up the first few times. is this an indicator of bad wiring? not enough power? or a weak starter?
any thoughts anyone?
i'm keen to get it on the road, teh previous owner kept the body and interior in near pristine condition, and maintained the motor very well.
the only real damage it shows is from sitting for so long, lots of rust and corrosion underneath. And in teh wheelwells under teh bins, theres the only rust, and i am not sure how to judge how bad, but theres definite holes that will need to be cut out and replaced.
other than that it looks like it stepped right out of 1984 otherwise.
so some things outstanding now, are:
1.) new fuel pump is LOUD. Not sure if its the brnd of pump, as its nto MAZDA made, or if its just a thing that 1st gen FI cars have?
2.) Brakes. i have fluid in the master, but no brake pressure to speak of. Now at this poinmt i'm thinking either airs in teh lines, and it needs to be bled. or the calipers have all seized, which is definitely more expensive to fix. Anyone have experience that would tell them theres soemthing else to check? whichis most likley?
3.) it is a bitch to start. the previous owner put in a switch to kill the fuel pump, so 'm guessing he did this to control flooding, but that isn't my problem i think. I have to jump it to get it going after much coaxing. i think the battery is good in it, but even when wired up it cranks too slowly to light up the first few times. is this an indicator of bad wiring? not enough power? or a weak starter?
any thoughts anyone?
i'm keen to get it on the road, teh previous owner kept the body and interior in near pristine condition, and maintained the motor very well.
the only real damage it shows is from sitting for so long, lots of rust and corrosion underneath. And in teh wheelwells under teh bins, theres the only rust, and i am not sure how to judge how bad, but theres definite holes that will need to be cut out and replaced.
other than that it looks like it stepped right out of 1984 otherwise.
When you trun the key to the on posistion, do you hear the pump come on?
Now since you are in cold country, draining the tank may not be enough. You may have rust in the lines them selves. Need to check for flow out of the tank and maybe up to the fuel rail.
I hope that you already did a oil change and filter/anti-freeze, etc...
That many years of sitting there is probably alot of corrosion on the cables. Give them a strong cleaning and check where the ground cable junctions just below the driverside shock tower.
As has been stated, you need to flush the brake fluid completly.
Either put in another hot battery that you know is good or take that one to an auto parts store and have it checked. Make sure it has water in it first.
I would recommend the seafoam treatment for the seals then run an compression test.
12-10-06, 10:06 PM
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thanks
all great points. heres where i am with it.
New oil + filter.
New fuelpump + filter
New coolant - not flushed because i'm not set up for it. The plan is to get it driving then take ti to a shopa nd get it flushed properly.
new plugs.
the plugs and wires and cap and rotor i've put off as these appear to be in good condition, and more to teh point they weren't in stopck at the time they are on teh list now that i know the engine will run at all.
1.) what is this seafoam? i have read it on the boards before but haven't looked into what it is or if its avaialble in canada.
2.) the fuel pump being noisy is a concern. I don't have the packaging on me right now, as the garage i'm using is not at my house, but i'll get that information. If its just a noise brant of pump, then i can live with that for now. primarily is to get it driving, the full on resto and buildup will come in the spring once i have a better idea of the condition of everything.\
Doc: teh pump only comes on when i start cranking it, and its audible.. especially when teh car is actually running. i appear to have decetn fuel pressure at the intake line on the engine, and the gas looks clean. maybe theres rust already pushed to the injectors but given when i can get it to turn over the car runs strong and doesnt miss, i think the fuel system isokay. i'm sure it could be better, but it is functioning...
3.) battery cable: yes these are old and are on the list for replacement. Do you think that they arent' giving enough power to teh starter? i think that i have had it running twice before, and now it only "almost" catches suggests that with a boost they should be giving enough.
4.) i thought injectors may be one possible problem. the car right now "almost catches" then either dies on its own, or dies when i apply gas ( i eread you're not to use the gas pedal to start an SE , ever) or it floods a little and hten dies. Each time i've celaered the flood and cleaned the plugs.
the previous owner has installed his own fuel pump kill switch, i think becase he had this flooding problem. but i am either not quick or slow enough on the switch to get it going at th e prcise needed time. its a trick that will take me awhile to learn as its not my car and i am left learning how to start it on its own terms on my own.
i know i'm close with the engine, i'm just a little out of my depth here ( after long thinking its actually somehow my first EFI car) with troubleshooting the spark/fuel thing.
the brakes are the bigger concern, as i am to be honest, never done more to a brake ssytem other than lube clipers and change pads so flushing them is not a procdure i've actually done. the masters full of fluid, so would flush clear any line blockages?
all this would be so much nicer to deal with in a heated garage witha hoist
New oil + filter.
New fuelpump + filter
New coolant - not flushed because i'm not set up for it. The plan is to get it driving then take ti to a shopa nd get it flushed properly.
new plugs.
the plugs and wires and cap and rotor i've put off as these appear to be in good condition, and more to teh point they weren't in stopck at the time
they are on teh list now that i know the engine will run at all.1.) what is this seafoam? i have read it on the boards before but haven't looked into what it is or if its avaialble in canada.
2.) the fuel pump being noisy is a concern. I don't have the packaging on me right now, as the garage i'm using is not at my house, but i'll get that information. If its just a noise brant of pump, then i can live with that for now. primarily is to get it driving, the full on resto and buildup will come in the spring once i have a better idea of the condition of everything.\
Doc: teh pump only comes on when i start cranking it, and its audible.. especially when teh car is actually running. i appear to have decetn fuel pressure at the intake line on the engine, and the gas looks clean. maybe theres rust already pushed to the injectors but given when i can get it to turn over the car runs strong and doesnt miss, i think the fuel system isokay. i'm sure it could be better, but it is functioning...
3.) battery cable: yes these are old and are on the list for replacement. Do you think that they arent' giving enough power to teh starter? i think that i have had it running twice before, and now it only "almost" catches suggests that with a boost they should be giving enough.
4.) i thought injectors may be one possible problem. the car right now "almost catches" then either dies on its own, or dies when i apply gas ( i eread you're not to use the gas pedal to start an SE , ever) or it floods a little and hten dies. Each time i've celaered the flood and cleaned the plugs.
the previous owner has installed his own fuel pump kill switch, i think becase he had this flooding problem. but i am either not quick or slow enough on the switch to get it going at th e prcise needed time. its a trick that will take me awhile to learn as its not my car and i am left learning how to start it on its own terms on my own.
i know i'm close with the engine, i'm just a little out of my depth here ( after long thinking its actually somehow my first EFI car) with troubleshooting the spark/fuel thing.
the brakes are the bigger concern, as i am to be honest, never done more to a brake ssytem other than lube clipers and change pads
so flushing them is not a procdure i've actually done. the masters full of fluid, so would flush clear any line blockages?all this would be so much nicer to deal with in a heated garage witha hoist
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12-10-06, 10:24 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Captain Lou
all great points. heres where i am with it.
New oil + filter.
New fuelpump + filter
New coolant - not flushed because i'm not set up for it. The plan is to get it driving then take ti to a shopa nd get it flushed properly.
new plugs.
the plugs and wires and cap and rotor i've put off as these appear to be in good condition, and more to teh point they weren't in stopck at the time they are on teh list now that i know the engine will run at all.
1.) what is this seafoam? i have read it on the boards before but haven't looked into what it is or if its avaialble in canada.
2.) the fuel pump being noisy is a concern. I don't have the packaging on me right now, as the garage i'm using is not at my house, but i'll get that information. If its just a noise brant of pump, then i can live with that for now. primarily is to get it driving, the full on resto and buildup will come in the spring once i have a better idea of the condition of everything.\
Doc: teh pump only comes on when i start cranking it, and its audible.. especially when teh car is actually running. i appear to have decetn fuel pressure at the intake line on the engine, and the gas looks clean. maybe theres rust already pushed to the injectors but given when i can get it to turn over the car runs strong and doesnt miss, i think the fuel system isokay. i'm sure it could be better, but it is functioning...
3.) battery cable: yes these are old and are on the list for replacement. Do you think that they arent' giving enough power to teh starter? i think that i have had it running twice before, and now it only "almost" catches suggests that with a boost they should be giving enough.
4.) i thought injectors may be one possible problem. the car right now "almost catches" then either dies on its own, or dies when i apply gas ( i eread you're not to use the gas pedal to start an SE , ever) or it floods a little and hten dies. Each time i've celaered the flood and cleaned the plugs.
the previous owner has installed his own fuel pump kill switch, i think becase he had this flooding problem. but i am either not quick or slow enough on the switch to get it going at th e prcise needed time. its a trick that will take me awhile to learn as its not my car and i am left learning how to start it on its own terms on my own.
i know i'm close with the engine, i'm just a little out of my depth here ( after long thinking its actually somehow my first EFI car) with troubleshooting the spark/fuel thing.
the brakes are the bigger concern, as i am to be honest, never done more to a brake ssytem other than lube clipers and change pads so flushing them is not a procdure i've actually done. the masters full of fluid, so would flush clear any line blockages?
all this would be so much nicer to deal with in a heated garage witha hoist
New oil + filter.
New fuelpump + filter
New coolant - not flushed because i'm not set up for it. The plan is to get it driving then take ti to a shopa nd get it flushed properly.
new plugs.
the plugs and wires and cap and rotor i've put off as these appear to be in good condition, and more to teh point they weren't in stopck at the time
they are on teh list now that i know the engine will run at all.1.) what is this seafoam? i have read it on the boards before but haven't looked into what it is or if its avaialble in canada.
2.) the fuel pump being noisy is a concern. I don't have the packaging on me right now, as the garage i'm using is not at my house, but i'll get that information. If its just a noise brant of pump, then i can live with that for now. primarily is to get it driving, the full on resto and buildup will come in the spring once i have a better idea of the condition of everything.\
Doc: teh pump only comes on when i start cranking it, and its audible.. especially when teh car is actually running. i appear to have decetn fuel pressure at the intake line on the engine, and the gas looks clean. maybe theres rust already pushed to the injectors but given when i can get it to turn over the car runs strong and doesnt miss, i think the fuel system isokay. i'm sure it could be better, but it is functioning...
3.) battery cable: yes these are old and are on the list for replacement. Do you think that they arent' giving enough power to teh starter? i think that i have had it running twice before, and now it only "almost" catches suggests that with a boost they should be giving enough.
4.) i thought injectors may be one possible problem. the car right now "almost catches" then either dies on its own, or dies when i apply gas ( i eread you're not to use the gas pedal to start an SE , ever) or it floods a little and hten dies. Each time i've celaered the flood and cleaned the plugs.
the previous owner has installed his own fuel pump kill switch, i think becase he had this flooding problem. but i am either not quick or slow enough on the switch to get it going at th e prcise needed time. its a trick that will take me awhile to learn as its not my car and i am left learning how to start it on its own terms on my own.
i know i'm close with the engine, i'm just a little out of my depth here ( after long thinking its actually somehow my first EFI car) with troubleshooting the spark/fuel thing.
the brakes are the bigger concern, as i am to be honest, never done more to a brake ssytem other than lube clipers and change pads
so flushing them is not a procdure i've actually done. the masters full of fluid, so would flush clear any line blockages?all this would be so much nicer to deal with in a heated garage witha hoist
More then likely a injector or both are leaking that's why the cut off switch is there. Recommend you take them out and sent them to be cleaned.
witchhunters.com is a good place with a quick turn around time.
The replacement pump should have mounted in the original place as the oem one and would of had a piece of insulating rubber to go around the pump before it was set in it's location.
The cables should be atleast cleaned and checked as I outlined in my previous post. And I do recommend again getting the battery tested. Without good cranking compression our motors will flood.
Bleeding/flushing brakes is not a hard thing to do. You start at the furthest point from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest making sure you get a good steady stream out of the bleeders at each wheel.
12-13-06, 11:50 PM
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cool
i've been busy this week so the plan is the weekend ot attack things and anythign i don't get done i'm handing off ot a pro. I'm losing my work space
its been awhile sincei bough t battery cables, and the local shopws don't stock them based on application, rather just lengths.
do you know what the lengths of the battery cables are off the top ofyour head? ifi recall i think the pos was in two pieces, one or both 36", and the neg was 24".
sound right?
its been awhile sincei bough t battery cables, and the local shopws don't stock them based on application, rather just lengths.
do you know what the lengths of the battery cables are off the top ofyour head? ifi recall i think the pos was in two pieces, one or both 36", and the neg was 24".
sound right?
12-13-06, 11:57 PM
#10
The negative is in 2 pieces. It goes from the battery to the joining point below the driverside shock tower.
The positive is one piece with a pigtail that attaches to the fuseable link connectors.
Do you have a Napa there? If you do, you can take off your old ones and most Napas can make up new cables. You can also have them made up with heavier gauge cable if you wish.
I don't know what the proper lenghts are though.
The positive is one piece with a pigtail that attaches to the fuseable link connectors.
Do you have a Napa there? If you do, you can take off your old ones and most Napas can make up new cables. You can also have them made up with heavier gauge cable if you wish.
I don't know what the proper lenghts are though.
12-22-06, 11:48 PM
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Just an update.
the car runs!!! I replaced the battery cables and it turns over easily.
Now, the thing idle's at 1500 rpm and quits if i rev it past 2000ish.
I'm guessing a vacuum leak of some kind? or something i forgot to reconnect? I'm hella tired with the Christmas rush, and can't find a relevant thread on the board... most likely because I’m getting a little punchy at this point
the car runs!!! I replaced the battery cables and it turns over easily.
Now, the thing idle's at 1500 rpm and quits if i rev it past 2000ish.
I'm guessing a vacuum leak of some kind? or something i forgot to reconnect? I'm hella tired with the Christmas rush, and can't find a relevant thread on the board... most likely because I’m getting a little punchy at this point
Last edited by Captain Lou; 12-22-06 at 11:50 PM. Reason: subscribing
12-23-06, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Midwest 7's
premix your gas and rev the **** out of it. it will get the seals loosened up.
worked for me.
worked for me.
and the second, how can i "rev the **** out of it" if it wont pass 2000 rpms?
