Replacing FI plugs
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 399
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From: Richmond Hill, ON
Replacing FI plugs
I know there are already several posts discussing the replacement plugs for the FI system on the SE - as well as a lot of debate about soldering vs crimping. So I thought I'd post some pictures and description of how I avoided both these issues.
First of all I, I purchased two Echlin plugs from Napa (2-17427).
When I received the new plugs the first thing I noticed is that the wires that come with it are a lot smaller. I'm not an electrical engineer but that sort of bothered me when I compared them to the stock wires.
So instead of cutting off the old plugs, I simply extracted the stock wires from the original plug so I could reuse them.
In the picture you'll see I used a very thin micro screwdriver and ran it down the channel to push back the tab to free the wire. Be VERY careful on the new plugs that you don't crack the plug. My old plugs were so brittle that they broke in half when I did this - so it was very easy to remove the wires.
I'm not sure it matters - but I was careful to also note which wire went into which hole in the clip. Perhaps someone can comment on whether or not this is necessary. I figured it's better to play on the safe side than having to remove the UIM after the fact.
In another picture you can see the little tab that holds the wire in the plug. After you remove the wires from the old plug, make sure you pry the tabs up again so that they stay inserted in the new plug.
Then simply install the new plug onto the original wires. Since I had slit the rubber boot to extract the old clips, I then wrapped the boot with electrical tape to finish it off.
Now...does anyone know where I can find the metal clip that holds these suckers in place on the fuel injector? They didn't come with the new plugs from Napa and one of the originals has disappeared off my work bench. Grrr.
First of all I, I purchased two Echlin plugs from Napa (2-17427).
When I received the new plugs the first thing I noticed is that the wires that come with it are a lot smaller. I'm not an electrical engineer but that sort of bothered me when I compared them to the stock wires.
So instead of cutting off the old plugs, I simply extracted the stock wires from the original plug so I could reuse them.
In the picture you'll see I used a very thin micro screwdriver and ran it down the channel to push back the tab to free the wire. Be VERY careful on the new plugs that you don't crack the plug. My old plugs were so brittle that they broke in half when I did this - so it was very easy to remove the wires.
I'm not sure it matters - but I was careful to also note which wire went into which hole in the clip. Perhaps someone can comment on whether or not this is necessary. I figured it's better to play on the safe side than having to remove the UIM after the fact.
In another picture you can see the little tab that holds the wire in the plug. After you remove the wires from the old plug, make sure you pry the tabs up again so that they stay inserted in the new plug.
Then simply install the new plug onto the original wires. Since I had slit the rubber boot to extract the old clips, I then wrapped the boot with electrical tape to finish it off.
Now...does anyone know where I can find the metal clip that holds these suckers in place on the fuel injector? They didn't come with the new plugs from Napa and one of the originals has disappeared off my work bench. Grrr.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
neat, changing the plastic bit is exactly what i do too, it seems like the most trouble free way to do it. the connectors we used to get came with the wire clip, um i imagine you could use a dab of silicon, or bend a paper clip or something
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