1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Replaced the clutch hydralics...PHEWWWWWW!

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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 05:39 PM
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Replaced the clutch hydralics...PHEWWWWWW!

Well it was a beyotch but I replaced my master, slave and hose...the worst part was that damn top bolt for the master

Now after bleeding I NEVER felt the clutch so tight!!!

Now to find the reason for my powerloss
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 07:00 PM
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Yeah, I just did that last week. Did you have a socket that would work on the nuts for the master cylinder? I ended up cutting a deep walled socket in half with a sawsall.

It was worth the pain in the ***, wasnt it?
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 07:39 PM
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Gear wrenches baby! Use em...

They're like a box ended wrench except they ratchet... You gotta remove the pushrod for the cylinder but after that it's ******* butter.
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 08:08 PM
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i found a way to bleed the master with one person

just get a stick and wedge the pedal down, then go loosten the nut then tightten it and take the stick out and compress the pedal again and repeat, ghetto, yes.. effective, yes
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 08:49 PM
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i actually went to autozone twice! once to replace my 12mm wrench which i needed...then the second time when that wrench didn't work...i got another 12mm closed wrench but bent at each end...dunno what its called, but it worked like a charm...no cuts and out in 1 minute after i got that wrench...

another thing i did was take out the slave, hose, hardline and master all in 1 shot...it allowed me to use the proper closed end wrenches to take apart the hardline from the hose...it also allowed me to steelwool the hardline to clean it up a little...
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 10:13 PM
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Still no answer on the power loss?? That sucks.
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 10:41 PM
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yea good to see the clutch works, sucks to see your car is still down on power, wtf could that be???
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 10:57 PM
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What we need is an entire set of 12mm wrenches bent for specific purposes... One or two for the carb (which I have, thanks to carl Between that and the stud for the bonez intake it makes carb swapping a snap), and another one for the clutch cyl....

For the slave I found the best way was a 10in extender, a long 12mm socket and since it's on an angle, use the percision instrument (ie: big rubber mallet) to seat the socket on the bolt Very effective... but getting the slave back on straight is a bitch sometimes

Overall though, it's one of the easier swaps.... Try bending brake lines by hand or replacing your 20yr old e-brake cables if you *really* wanna have some "fun"

Jonf
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 11:10 PM
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i found a way to bleed the master with one person
My way works better.

Here is the text from a post a made a few days ago.
Loosen the bleed screw on the slave. Press clutch pedal to floor (have a buddy do this, or use a length of 2x4). Tighten bleed screw on slave. Lift pedal. Repeat untill the air is gone. Refill clutch reservoir.

I've found that you only need to pump the pedal a couple times once all the air is out to make it feel good.
If you've been taught to pump the pedal several times and then hold it down while you or a buddy loosens the bleed screw, only to repeat this process several more times, in my opinion, you're doing it wrong. My friend taught me to do it that way, and it never works as well as the way I mentioned above.

I think I learned my bleeding procedure from a Fait X1/9 Haynes manual or something.

Last edited by Jeff20B; Aug 7, 2004 at 11:16 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2004 | 11:43 PM
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shoot...i wish i found that thread before...once we were done bleeding, my friends leg was 2 times the size of his right leg from all the workout!

yeah it does suck i still have the power loss i emptyed out the tank today and got a full tank from a station that i know has been good...tomorrow will be the fuel filter although i doubt that will fix it. i'm stumped
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