StricklyOldskool

I am looking to replace all the front bushings, and have tried doing some research on the forums before making this post. It would seem everyone has etheir went either suspension techniques or from P.S.T Polygraphite...but no confirmation on what was ordered to complete the upgrade or how well the kit is. A few questions I was looking to get answered are. The users that are using the P.S.T Polygraphite how is it holding up and is the kit complete. This leads to the next question, what other bushings or like items should be purchased along with the 79-85 rx7 kit from P.S.T?
I will be purchasing a Racingbeat front sway bar along with this transition.
Currently running on Tokico Blues and Racingbeat Springs.

People that have done suspension upgrades.....please post some informative info that might help me or others when viewing this post.

thanx

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

It's best to replace all of the bushings with polys, except the upper control arms. The polygraphite is self lubing. They should last longer and squeak less because of this. I have them on the widebody, made a big difference in tightening the suspension and steering. They will transfer more noise into the body. Minor price to pay for the upgrade.

13BT_RX3

You may also want to consider try these Front Trailing Arm Spherical Bushings.

http://www.gforceengineering.net/products.htm

StricklyOldskool

I have seen this item mentioned on ReSpeeds site. what exactly does this item do?

13BT_RX3

Remove fore-aft play like harder bushings, but don't bind like harder bushings (if adjusted correctly) so they won't contribute the your spring rate. I believe they can be touchy to setup though. Too tight they bind. Too loose they clunk. Might be able to solve this with a belville spring between washers under the nut.

GavinJuice

you mean a wave washer?

13BT_RX3

Yes.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/framewor...20Springs;disc

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

the bad thing is do es everyone have a press machine to do alot of this

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If they are rusted much, you cannot press them out easily, if at all. When it comes to assembly, a good c-clamp works as well as a press.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I second the C clamp, When i changed the bushings on my dads civic, we burned the old ones out, hack sawed a slip in the metal tube on the outside, and after much re heating and spray WD-40 so that it seeps inbetween both metal, and a few bang later out they came.

John64

I used Suspension Technigue bushings and they work great. I order them from suspension restoration, they do make complete kits for the 7 just ask them.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

These are really meant for track only cars. It will make the ride pretty harsh on the street. Go with a good set of poly or polygraphite bushings for everything in the front and in the rear leave the upper links rubber and make the rest poly. Also in the rear make sure the watts linkage joints aren't over tighten or you will lose some suspension travel which will translate itself into wierd handling characteristics when cornering at the edge.

Kentetsu

I have the pst version. It included everything for the front end except for inner tie rod ends, idler arm bushings, and pitman arm. I'm happy with it, but if I had it to do over I would buy from Respeed. http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalog/index.php I like to support those who support us.

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

In the spring I'm going to be getting my suspension from Respeed

StricklyOldskool

I dont see where ReSpeeed has the Polygraphite bushings. I do see that have Polyurethane.
Kentetsu....being the kit did not come with these items did you pick up the rest from Black Dragon?

13BT_RX3

Liquid Nitrogen dip is good for rear link bushing removal. Chips right out.

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

The kit can be purchased in red or black. The black kit is polyurethane with graphite impregnation. Simply put the color choice in the notes section when you order.


-billy

StricklyOldskool

Well if that is the case.. I too will support reSpeed ;]
Thanx bwaits

Kentetsu

Oh hell no! Go to www.rockauto.com and save yourself a bunch of cash on the other parts. Specifically, for the idler arm look at the Moog model (much beefier than stock). Some "other" sites (cough-mazdatrix-cough) sells the identical part for like 20 bucks more. Good site for the common tuneup type stuff.

And I forgot to mention, Respeed is a very good place to deal with. I haven't seen that level of customer care in a very, very long time. And that was just for a standard web order, not even anything special (fuel pressure gauge and a few other items). Making everyone else look like amatuers...

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

I got a mazda motorsports idler arm bushing in delrin, but you have to sign up and show proof of racing (autocross results)

Poly is definately not a race car level upgrade it is a basic upgrade for road cars.

I did my tie rods and end links when I did my bushings, with coil overs its a different car

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

i initially wanted to go with the PST kit. after asking around though a couple guys on here told me some of the bushings didnt hold up long though. just to be on the safe side, and to help the fellow rotor heads, ill be buying from respeed

StricklyOldskool

Will you be going with the Black(graphite) set from ReSpeed or the urathane? Just cerious....has anyone used the Polygraphite from reSpeed with good results?

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

well, i know billy wouldnt sell anything unless it was of the highest quality. ill talk to him about it and see what he sudjest, but ill probably go with the black graphite impregnanted bushings.

StricklyOldskool

Kentetsu.. would you recommend replacing the tie rod ends booth inner and outter with MOOG product as well?
I do remember reading somewhere that replacing the entire tie rod end is better then replacing the boot section.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Boots should always be kept up. How many miles on the tie rods? If there is any looseness at all in them, replace all 4, including the adjusters and be done with it.