^^ your engine bay would almost be empty

 

Have you done anything with this project. I read some of your posts in this thread, and I am actually in the process of completing a engine similar to what you are writing about. If you make any progress let us know.

Thanks
Albert

 

It appears he hit a snag with the oil pump. Hmmm.
The whole thread, though, led me to one exciting possibility. Have you ever driven an RX8? Felt how smooth it felt through its six gears? How beautifully it shifted?

It was mentioned that the rear iron would require the RX8 tranny. So, let's get that RX8 TRANNY!

 

who has a picture of the rear iorn bolt pattern ? maybe we could make a conversion plate ?

 

its nice to see that there are actually people interested in this.

here is the best pic I could find of the rear plate of the renesis

 

what have you got going? my project has basicly been halted due to lack of money, but I am still researching. as soon as I can find a cheap beater car and some cash im going to retire my seven from daily use and start back up.

 

it *looks* like a 7 tranny would bolt up to that but i cant be sure just by looking at a pic

 

aneone here a mazda tech ? i would bet that they would have acsess to that sort of info...

 

duh , the tranny will bolt right up.

 

i have been thinking about this also for some time... but it seems to me it would work gr8 for turbos letting more exhaust flow... you could use only the center plate.. kinda like a half bridge and a custome exhaust

the reason i have been thinking about his is... it always comes down to the EXHAUST when we are talking about power.. turbo motors dont flow enough even ported race exhaust.. you can get more air into the motor then out... the center plate would open up whole new doors with the add'ed exhaust port

 

Keep in mind, not only are the side housings on a renisis a little different, but so are the rotors. Good idea though.

 

keep in mind not only are the housings on a RENESIS a little different, but so are the rotors. :smiley_12 Good idea though

 

did you read any of the other 4 pages?

 

Noob here with ideas!
Use the renesis center iorn and block off the exhaust ports like they do with the intake ports when they do a periphrial port on a normal rotary (I don't know if thats possible or not) or keep them open (one again don't know if that would work, super custom header required too). It would kinda be like a half bridge.

Or

Just buy a renesis short block and see if you can carb it, some one posted the idea here a few months ago.

Edit: wow I didn't notice how old this thread was

 

dubble post

 

the only benefit from the renesis irons is the exhaust port... other wise it would be much cheeper to just bridge port it...if you only used the center plate you would have a 4 port exhaust witch would rock the exhaust wouldint be hard to fab up either i have been thinking aobut it sences last night.. im looking for a center plate right now

 

Take a 13b TII rotor housings. A GSL-SE front plate/oil pan, then take the Renesis irons and internals. There you go. You gain some advantages of the Renesis but it will bolt in to a FB...

Uhh... I don't really know but from the few things I read in this thread this seems possible.

 

Mazda Techs and Mazda don't have access to that info. Ask any of them about rotaries and they're all about everything like you're crazy. ******* pisses me off.

 

any updates on this? also what if you hooked up an electric relay or something through the alternator, so that the more it spools to charge the system with revs up, it sends the full signal to the pump, but when you are idling it sends a weaker signal to the pump thus telling it to send more or less oil as the alt sees demand?

just a thought, but i dont know how practical it is. maybe even run it off of the ignition system?

 

i suppose the question at hand is: what are you trying to accomplish by doing this? yes, it will work - not easily, but it will work, but what are you trying to accomplish?

 

you're correct about the 1986+ engines, but you're forgetting that there was a 1984-85 13B with 6-ports. remember the SE? a 6-port 12A is not difficult at all.

 

as far as the general conversations goes ...

1. you will need to protect 12A oil seals from the side port exhausts. unfortunately i have not been able to play with Renesis parts, but as far as i know there are no provisions in older engine rotors for the oil scrapers.

2. Renesis oil pump and 12A front cover issues may be another problem. i honestly don't know.

3. exhaust flow may be another major issue. more ports does NOT necessarily correlate to better flow and i'm fairly sure the timing is different. one of the things that makes the Renesis so special is the lack of overlap. a peripheral port (the 12A rotor housings) will introduce overlap.

4. the static compression difference. 9.4:1 vs. 10.0:1 will probably make a difference in overall output. you can lighten the 12A rotors, but they will still lack the static compression.

this is not meant to **** on anyone's dream, but you're not the first to think of this and the fact is, it's not as simple as it appears.

converse ...

 

The water jacket o-rings in the Renesis are back in the rotor housings like the pre-86 engines.

You could physically use 12A rotors and housings on a Renesis. Plug up the peripheral exhaust ports. No you don't want to keep both of them and no peripheral exhaust ports are not the ****. Side are! The problem with homebrewing a 12A Renesis is the fact that the side seals on the rotors are not wedge shaped and over time will get clogged up with carbon and result in breaking a side seal. That's bad news. There is also no cutoff ring which while the engine can run without it, you are losing some of the benefit of the side port configuration. I know at least one person on the forum says that it can't improve power to leave it in but strangely enough it does. It's even been dyno proven in independent testing.

I have a Renesis torn apart here as well as many other engines. Yes the 1st gen front cover does bolt onto the Renesis. You just use the 2nd gen crank angle sensor. It works fine. This is how I'm mounting the Renesis in my GSL-SE.

 

That's why hes a rotary god, and all of us are, at best, kings or really kick-*** dukes.

 

if you want to get more exhaust out of you motor could you try just useing the center iron from the ren motor.