gosport86

What's up guys. I have a crappy paint job the car its like 3 different colors and its uneven. I searched the board but turned up partial answers. I want to know what grit sandpaper should I do to get the car back to bare metal. I plan on applyin a satin black rattle can job in the mean time any help?

Kerebrus

iTrader: (30)

Sandpaper back down to bare metal is gonna take a lot of work.. You should consider taking it somewhere and have the whole care primered with the special tan/yellow primer. Then paint it after.

brad horton

when i built my 67 mercury cougar i striped it down to bear metal using tal-strip and pundy knife it took a long time but it does not strain the metal the way sandpaper does. it took and long time but the car came out great. i had places in my fenders that had 6-7 layers of paint and some of the bondo in rasied part of my hood was 3inchs deep.

BARF1

tal-strip is nasty stuff but it works great

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

i have doing body work ..good kuck

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Using a good DA, start with 80 grit paper. Once most of the paint is removed go to 220 grit prior to sealing, then 350/400 grit prior to base coat If the original primer/sealer is still good, leave it. Any dings or rock chips that show small rust pits need to be taken to bare metal with at least a 3" diameter feathered circle. Any old bondo/putty needs to be completely removed. Do Not rattle can over bare metal. At the very least, buy a cheap spray gun, (50 bucks), and shoot the body with a coat of primer/sealer or 2 part epoxy, (75-125 bucks). In the long run it will be cheaper than shooting it with a rattle can. First coat must be a sealer or an epoxy, not a standard or high build primer. Primers are designed to be absorbent to improve the bond for the base coat. They also absorb moisture. You may not see rust on top of the primer, but it will start rusting, unseen, under the primer.

If you can't afford to do it the right way for now, then scuff sand the existing paint and rattle can it.