When i found the big crack in my radiator, I took it in to the local radiator shop for repair.. they cleaned it up and fixed my leak.. but my coolant level sensor on top had its threads stripped and would not stay tight, and the wire was torn off.. causing the pressure test to fail. The guy told me about this, and my only option was to get a new one, or for him to plug it off. Since i check on my fluid levels often I really didnt find it necessary to need the sensor, so I just had him weld a plug in the hole.

The rad holds coolant and pressure perfectly, but now I have the annoying "Add coolant" light on all the time. Is there any way to bypass this system to get rid of it?

 

Since the light no longer serves any function, seems the easy fix might be to remove the lightblulb.
If getting to the bulb is too much of a hassle, try taking the wires that were connected to the sensor and tying them together, looks like the sensor is just a switch, so it either needs an open or a closed to actuate it.
If you can't find anything else to tie it to, then try grounding it. That should simulate a closed switch according to the wiring schematics for my 83.
Hope this helps.

 

This is actually a VERY SIMPLE fix. All you have to do is ground the wire that used to connect to the level sensor. The most commom way I've seen it done is with a crimp connector on the wire, and slip it under one of the radiator front valance bolts, but there's no reason you couldn't ground it anywhere on the car.

 

Cool man, thanks alot !

 

Does your coolant light have a LOUD buzzer accompanying it like my SE? Sometimes, apparently for no reason, my coolant light/buzzer will come on for a few seconds, then go off again, despite the fact that the coolant level is fine.

 

back when my coolant was actually low, and it was hooked up properly, yes.. a dinging buzzer.. but now nope

 

Air bubbles in the system will cause the light and buzzer to come on.

 

Whats the best way to alleviate that? I didn't notice there were some bubbles in the tank.

 

there might not be bubbles in your tank. Ive found the best way is to run the car (idle)with the rad cap off for a while and then youll see the bubbles then. also if youve drained you radiator, there is also a plug on the left side of engine below accessories bracket i think 14mm or 12mm plug that will drin your engine too. Another cause is high revving for a while can cause the stock water pump to cavitate a bit and introduce air that way.

 

Mine started doing that. The connector was corroded. I cut off the connector and spliced the wires. No more problem.

 

I have to ground the wire to the chasis on my GXL. I looked into a replacement sensor from the dealer and places like Autozone and they run $40-50. A used one will run you maybe $5, but the wires get brittle around the base of the sensor.