So I am doing my rebuild of the carb, and I hear about people removing the choke. Are you talking about just the bimetal coil and associated parts, or of the actual plate. If you are pulling the plate, how are you keeping the rod from moving around?

Also, I want to keep the fast idle of course, when you pull the choke **** in the car, do you ahve to keep holding it out due to the bimetal coil not holding the spring pressure back or am I missing something critical?

 

Yank it all, and fill the choke shaft holes with JB Weld to keep out dust.
The choke **** in the dash has a built in electromagnetic solenoid that holds it out until it recieves a cut signal from the bimetal spring thermostat. It'll stay open as long as you want, I believe, and then you simply push it back in. I am unclear as to whether the electric to that solenoid is automatically cut when you push the **** in. If anyone can verify, I'd appreciate it as I do not run a fast idle on my car.

 

but doesn't the choke cable connect to the pull rod that is next to the spring on the choke rod? The fast idle is connected via a rod to that.

 

The cable connects to the fast idle circuit. Remove everything associated with the automatic choke, including the choke plate & rod, but not the spring, linkage and fast idle assembly.

 

Ok, I will take pictures for everyone when I am putting it all back together. In the cleaning stage now.

 

I want to keep my 82 as original as possible, and in complete working order. The choke on mine will not stay out, after I rebuilt my carb. The selonoid motor gets no power to engage. Any help.

 

The choke **** holder is controlled by the thing on the water pump.

 

would it be ok to fill the holes left by the choke butterfly rod with with high temp rtv gasket maker?

 

Just get some jbweld. Its cheep and easy. No way for that stuff to come out.

 

The choke **** is controlled by the #1 temp sensor on the back of the water pump housing. The wires coming out of the sensor are frail and typically fray/break.

 

Also, the choke **** should pop back in on it's own (spring on the carb) after the engine is warmed enough.

 

i bought some jb weld but have never used it before and wasnt sure how to get something of that consistency into the holes after i mixed it. the red gasket sealer i just squirted in there. so you think it will come out during engine operation if i leave it in there?