Remedy for "storage bin" rust
11-21-02, 02:27 PM
#1
Stratoflattener
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Remedy for "storage bin" rust
Pretty self explanitory, but I was just wondering if there was a recommended way to either get rid of, or prevent the spread of, cosmetic rust (which I'm assuming will get worse) inside the storage bins (you know, the standard place to look, on top of the rear wheel well).
11-21-02, 02:29 PM
#2
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as long as it is just cosmetic and has not gotten structural, use a product called "por-15", it will do the job. You will not need to topcoat the por-15 since this is inside the car, inside the storage bins.
Last edited by rogan; 11-21-02 at 02:36 PM.
11-21-02, 02:32 PM
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It's por-15 
just thought in case he had trouble finding it. Anyways if you use por-15 on an area that will be topcoated there are a few things you need to do to get a good finish. PM me if you are going use por-15 and then top coat it.
just thought in case he had trouble finding it. Anyways if you use por-15 on an area that will be topcoated there are a few things you need to do to get a good finish. PM me if you are going use por-15 and then top coat it.
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11-21-02, 03:05 PM
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Originally posted by Manntis
if it's smaller than your hand, sand or grind it off.
If it's bigger'n your hand, push it off a cliff and report it stolen
if it's smaller than your hand, sand or grind it off.
If it's bigger'n your hand, push it off a cliff and report it stolen
I fixed my rust holes (bigger than large grapefruits) in the wheel wells, including the little bracket that rusted off, and it only took about 10 hours work total with my trusty MIG welder, plasma cutter, a grinder, and some 16ga sheet...
Worth it in my books... whole car is pretty much rust free now...
Jeff
11-21-02, 03:09 PM
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Congrats! Of course, you have the dry okanagan climate (kinda like the prairies), and the rust was probably surface stuff...
Ontarians get that deep rotted-through-the-metal rust that 'icebergs' (the rust you see is only the start- insert ominous music here) I once looked into buying a DAytona out there, and touched a rust bubble on the fender only to see about a square foot of metal softly 'give' under the pressure...
But yeah, if it can be chopped out and replaced with new metal, then save the car
Ontarians get that deep rotted-through-the-metal rust that 'icebergs' (the rust you see is only the start- insert ominous music here) I once looked into buying a DAytona out there, and touched a rust bubble on the fender only to see about a square foot of metal softly 'give' under the pressure...
But yeah, if it can be chopped out and replaced with new metal, then save the car
11-21-02, 07:41 PM
#14
FFFFFUUUUUUUCCCCCCKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!
I just pulled my bins and found a bunch of rust.
FUUUUUCCCCCKKK, im pissed now, I have to get that fixed.
when I was putting the new springs in I didnt see any rust where the control arms hooked up.
I going to get it fixed but should I be worried.
I just pulled my bins and found a bunch of rust.
FUUUUUCCCCCKKK, im pissed now, I have to get that fixed.
when I was putting the new springs in I didnt see any rust where the control arms hooked up.
I going to get it fixed but should I be worried.
11-21-02, 07:43 PM
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My wheel wells were completely cut out. I found a pair off a junk car that had surface rust. Those were cut out and blasted heavily. Then they were undercoated and baked several times. Then they were mounted and welded in. More undercoating was applied. And those stock bubbles in the wheel wells were removed. Looks great and keeps the water out.
Last edited by 85RX7GS; 11-21-02 at 07:45 PM.
11-21-02, 07:48 PM
#16
my car is rustproofed so Im suprised its there.
actually the rustproofing caused my door rust. and the **** is hard as hell to clean of when your trying to detail a engine.
Im going to talk to a autobody shop in the spring after the Turbo motor goes in.
actually the rustproofing caused my door rust. and the **** is hard as hell to clean of when your trying to detail a engine.
Im going to talk to a autobody shop in the spring after the Turbo motor goes in.
11-21-02, 08:00 PM
#17
I'm surprised not one person has mentioned using phosphoric acid. I learned this during a stint at a sports car restoration shop. Wire wheel, or better yet get some of those Scotchbrite discs that go on an air grinder and ferret out the rust, then apply phosphoric acid solution (some brand names are Os-Pho or Rust-Mort) with a brush and let it dry. The metal will turn a mottled black color. Then wipe it down with a rag and prep-sol and you can spray paint it and it will last. The phosphoric acid converts rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate which is stable. I've even saved RX3 battery trays with this procedure. I have a sneaking suspicion that POR-15 uses some sort of phosphoric acid preparation as it's rust neutralizing agent. -WG
11-21-02, 08:32 PM
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Originally posted by Wankelguy
I'm surprised not one person has mentioned using phosphoric acid. I learned this during a stint at a sports car restoration shop. Wire wheel, or better yet get some of those Scotchbrite discs that go on an air grinder and ferret out the rust, then apply phosphoric acid solution (some brand names are Os-Pho or Rust-Mort) with a brush and let it dry. The metal will turn a mottled black color. Then wipe it down with a rag and prep-sol and you can spray paint it and it will last. The phosphoric acid converts rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate which is stable. I've even saved RX3 battery trays with this procedure. I have a sneaking suspicion that POR-15 uses some sort of phosphoric acid preparation as it's rust neutralizing agent. -WG
I'm surprised not one person has mentioned using phosphoric acid. I learned this during a stint at a sports car restoration shop. Wire wheel, or better yet get some of those Scotchbrite discs that go on an air grinder and ferret out the rust, then apply phosphoric acid solution (some brand names are Os-Pho or Rust-Mort) with a brush and let it dry. The metal will turn a mottled black color. Then wipe it down with a rag and prep-sol and you can spray paint it and it will last. The phosphoric acid converts rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate which is stable. I've even saved RX3 battery trays with this procedure. I have a sneaking suspicion that POR-15 uses some sort of phosphoric acid preparation as it's rust neutralizing agent. -WG
11-21-02, 08:45 PM
#20
Originally posted by 82streetracer
my car is rustproofed so Im suprised its there.
actually the rustproofing caused my door rust. and the **** is hard as hell to clean of when your trying to detail a engine.
Im going to talk to a autobody shop in the spring after the Turbo motor goes in.
my car is rustproofed so Im suprised its there.
actually the rustproofing caused my door rust. and the **** is hard as hell to clean of when your trying to detail a engine.
Im going to talk to a autobody shop in the spring after the Turbo motor goes in.
11-21-02, 08:48 PM
#21
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The REAL way to fix the storage bin rust
I think this is self explainatory. Personally I would spend my time differently, but that is just my opinion. But the end result is flawless pretty much.
I think this is self explainatory.
Personally I would spend my time differently, but that is just my opinion. But the end result is flawless pretty much.
11-21-02, 08:52 PM
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The guy I bought my car did that to a first gen. Its actualy not that hard to do a clip job. pretty much one big weld. The 510 racecar I was working on for him over the summer was like 3 different 510's put into one lol.
11-23-02, 10:04 AM
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I just pulled my bins... The drivers side has it on the bottom of the wheel well. And the passenger side has it on the top and the bottom . All of it looks to be to the point where cut and weld is in order. Question though I have water in the bottom of my passenger side one. But the insulation pad thats in there isnt wet on the higher part of it. Just at the bottom?? I don't know if I spilled somthing? Or how else could water be getting in there?
