Red 83 - the big challenge
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Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: SF BayArea
Red 83 - the big challenge
OK, I got the worlds greatest project car - a Red 83 that smokes, can't pass CA smog ("Gross Polluter"), degenerate paint, a few rust spots and a 'kiss of death" motor, i.e., leaks from the sandwich. Oh yeah, it reaks of tobacco and the seats are shot.
Nevertheless, I think I can turn this sows ear into a silk purse cheaply and easily:
1-take out a couple dents with "Ding King" ( best $20 I ever spent),
2-fill some dings with Bondo (in spite of my preference for lead - oh hell, maybe I'll lead it),
3-have it painted for $200-$300 at Earl Sheib or Miracle (worked good for my 90 Sable),
4-dump 16oz of MMO into the tank,
5-dump 16oz of MMO into the crankcase,
6-adjust the timing,
7-(maybe) install the new Bonerz Cat I have.
8-replace seats with FC seats from junkyard,
9-JB weld the oil leaks
I think this will get me past smog and make it the most desirable car on the block!
B
Nevertheless, I think I can turn this sows ear into a silk purse cheaply and easily:
1-take out a couple dents with "Ding King" ( best $20 I ever spent),
2-fill some dings with Bondo (in spite of my preference for lead - oh hell, maybe I'll lead it),
3-have it painted for $200-$300 at Earl Sheib or Miracle (worked good for my 90 Sable),
4-dump 16oz of MMO into the tank,
5-dump 16oz of MMO into the crankcase,
6-adjust the timing,
7-(maybe) install the new Bonerz Cat I have.
8-replace seats with FC seats from junkyard,
9-JB weld the oil leaks
I think this will get me past smog and make it the most desirable car on the block!
B
Thread Starter
Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,815
Likes: 0
From: SF BayArea
Started the body work.
Gotta pass the smog to transfer the title. The timing mark is 90 or 180 degrees off because the water pump was changed, so I figure to make a template to fit around the Eshaft pulley, then mark off 90 and 180 and set the distrubutor rotor at #1 leading and file a new timing mark.
B
Gotta pass the smog to transfer the title. The timing mark is 90 or 180 degrees off because the water pump was changed, so I figure to make a template to fit around the Eshaft pulley, then mark off 90 and 180 and set the distrubutor rotor at #1 leading and file a new timing mark.
B
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Originally posted by bliffle
Started the body work.
Gotta pass the smog to transfer the title. The timing mark is 90 or 180 degrees off because the water pump was changed, so I figure to make a template to fit around the Eshaft pulley, then mark off 90 and 180 and set the distrubutor rotor at #1 leading and file a new timing mark.
B
Started the body work.
Gotta pass the smog to transfer the title. The timing mark is 90 or 180 degrees off because the water pump was changed, so I figure to make a template to fit around the Eshaft pulley, then mark off 90 and 180 and set the distrubutor rotor at #1 leading and file a new timing mark.
B
Mabye the front pulley was installed upside down?
Thread Starter
Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,815
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From: SF BayArea
Hmmm interesting. I found a lot of dings on the driver side so I resorted to Bondo, which is a lot faster.
I rotated the eshaft pulley and can't see the timing mark anywhere. I figure if I could see it I could sync with one of the 4 plugs, like a four piston engine (except for VW which has different timing on the hot cylinder).
Think I'll just blind adjust the timing, and maybe get an EG meter.
I don't want to spend to much time (I expect to spend minimum $$$ or none) since the transmission is whining. I just want tpo make it look good and save it from the crusher.
B
I rotated the eshaft pulley and can't see the timing mark anywhere. I figure if I could see it I could sync with one of the 4 plugs, like a four piston engine (except for VW which has different timing on the hot cylinder).
Think I'll just blind adjust the timing, and maybe get an EG meter.
I don't want to spend to much time (I expect to spend minimum $$$ or none) since the transmission is whining. I just want tpo make it look good and save it from the crusher.
B
Thread Starter
Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,815
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From: SF BayArea
I found the tiny little timing mark right where it should be! Added some paint daubs. Timed the engine a smidgin and it runs like a champ. Think I'll pop in a new ACV valve before I attempt a smog check monday.
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B
Thread Starter
Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: SF BayArea
That damn cheap paint from Home Depot doesn't rub out very well. Doesn't get glossy even with 600 wet paper. So I figure I gotta either clearcoat or find a new topcoat.
Any suggestions?
B
Any suggestions?
B
Originally posted by bliffle
I Gunked the engine and found that it has the common leak up front, near the "12A" stamping. I understand some guys have fixed that with JB Weld.
B
I Gunked the engine and found that it has the common leak up front, near the "12A" stamping. I understand some guys have fixed that with JB Weld.
B
Thread Starter
Rotary Freak
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: SF BayArea
I think JB weld is worth a try, so I gotta take off the distributor to access everything well.
Meanwhile, the paint is going on and it rubs out smooth, but no gloss. Tried clearcoat, but it makes little curdles. So I'll just overpaint with something different.
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B
Meanwhile, the paint is going on and it rubs out smooth, but no gloss. Tried clearcoat, but it makes little curdles. So I'll just overpaint with something different.
B
B
If you're going to try that, then you need to JB Weld ALL ALONG THE PARTING LINE WHERE YOU SEE THE ALUMINUM AND IRON HOUSINGS MEET or it will simply go where you didn't seal with JB Weld and leak from that spot. I repeat, the oil will "creep" to ANYWHERE on that parting line you don't have JB Weld and leak there...Have fun...
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