Reconnecting my A/C
03-06-12, 09:44 PM
#1
Reconnecting my A/C
I'm thinking of reconnecting my A/C on my 79, and have a few questions. I originally had ac on the car, and decided to take it out when I bought it. I kept all the parts though in case I ever wanted to re-install it, which was a smart idea i guess.
1- I know I need a new dryer/filter, but how do I know if it's a dealer or factory installed ac system? Apparently they are different part numbers.
2- In the first picture, there is a loose wire on top of the compressor, this is the only electrical component I can find. Is there anything else I'm missing that needs to be reconnected? And where does this loose wire go? Is it just a ground?
3- I bought a RedTek ac recharge kit. It says it will retrofit a R12 system (http://www.redtek.com/products_refr.html). Will this work to refill my system?
4- Last question, is there anything I'm missing or overlooking?
1- I know I need a new dryer/filter, but how do I know if it's a dealer or factory installed ac system? Apparently they are different part numbers.
2- In the first picture, there is a loose wire on top of the compressor, this is the only electrical component I can find. Is there anything else I'm missing that needs to be reconnected? And where does this loose wire go? Is it just a ground?
3- I bought a RedTek ac recharge kit. It says it will retrofit a R12 system (http://www.redtek.com/products_refr.html). Will this work to refill my system?
4- Last question, is there anything I'm missing or overlooking?
03-06-12, 11:34 PM
#2
Aside from a refill, do you have equipment to pull vacuum on the system once its all connected before you add the new refrigerant? You'll need to pull vacuum to check for leaks and also clean out/flush the system of all the contaminents that have been introduced since the system was opened.
03-07-12, 07:00 AM
#4
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I think there may be a few things more you will need.
As you mentioned a dryer but also you need an orifice/expansion valve, it sits in
the line going into the firewall or around there and it should always be replaced.
You also should get new hoses made that are impervious to R134. R134 molecules
are much smaller and will seep thru a hose used for 12A, also your hoses are
probably pretty swollen and nasty inside anyway.
Then theres the oil you need to preload the dryer and the compressor. It needs to
be compatible with the coolant, usually PAG oil for R134 coolant. I'm no AC expert
but these are just some of the things I know that need to be done.
Wouldn't hurt to have the condensor replaced or thoroughly flushed out as well.
They need to be nice and clean to work well. I plan on doing this soon as well.
As you mentioned a dryer but also you need an orifice/expansion valve, it sits in
the line going into the firewall or around there and it should always be replaced.
You also should get new hoses made that are impervious to R134. R134 molecules
are much smaller and will seep thru a hose used for 12A, also your hoses are
probably pretty swollen and nasty inside anyway.
Then theres the oil you need to preload the dryer and the compressor. It needs to
be compatible with the coolant, usually PAG oil for R134 coolant. I'm no AC expert
but these are just some of the things I know that need to be done.
Wouldn't hurt to have the condensor replaced or thoroughly flushed out as well.
They need to be nice and clean to work well. I plan on doing this soon as well.
03-07-12, 09:29 AM
#5
-Your R12 hoses will work fine.
-You will want to drain the system of the mineral oil currently in it.
-You will want to replace the dryer (look at the parts fiche to determine if your system is fac or dealer)
-Does that wire go into the pulley clutch? On later systems, there is a single wire which when energized magnetically engages the pulley.
-If you are spending this much already, you might as well get a new expansion valve.
-Get new orings for any connection you remove. Lubricate these rings with your new oil.
-Use PolyEster oil, not PAG for this R12/retrofit system.
-Search the FC section for R-152A. This is what I used and its better than those kits. You will still need to get your system evacuated.
-Read the AC book link in my signature. It goes over all the different types of AC, how they work and how to service them.
If I were you, I'd order the three items you need and evac/fill yourself. It will be cheaper than a shop and if you mess it up you can redo it for free.
-You will want to drain the system of the mineral oil currently in it.
-You will want to replace the dryer (look at the parts fiche to determine if your system is fac or dealer)
-Does that wire go into the pulley clutch? On later systems, there is a single wire which when energized magnetically engages the pulley.
-If you are spending this much already, you might as well get a new expansion valve.
-Get new orings for any connection you remove. Lubricate these rings with your new oil.
-Use PolyEster oil, not PAG for this R12/retrofit system.
-Search the FC section for R-152A. This is what I used and its better than those kits. You will still need to get your system evacuated.
-Read the AC book link in my signature. It goes over all the different types of AC, how they work and how to service them.
If I were you, I'd order the three items you need and evac/fill yourself. It will be cheaper than a shop and if you mess it up you can redo it for free.
Last edited by Sgt Fox; 03-07-12 at 09:32 AM.
03-07-12, 10:06 AM
#6
The wire is for the pulley clutch, yes. it should have a male bullet connector on it, which connects to a female on the harness, down near the bottom of the shock tower.
Looks like you have the same AC system I do; I've never determined if it was factory or dealer installed. All US SA's had their AC installed after arriving in the US (import rules advantage if I recall correctly), but 'factory' installed systems were done before the units arrived at the dealer.
Which explains why the hose supports & stuff look like somebody just threw them in with sheet-metal screws: They did!
& also why the hardware in many cases is SAE rather than metric.
Looks like you have the same AC system I do; I've never determined if it was factory or dealer installed. All US SA's had their AC installed after arriving in the US (import rules advantage if I recall correctly), but 'factory' installed systems were done before the units arrived at the dealer.
Which explains why the hose supports & stuff look like somebody just threw them in with sheet-metal screws: They did!
& also why the hardware in many cases is SAE rather than metric.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post