Rebuilt RB Holley, re-ran fuel lines, now 12a runs like hell.
08-07-07, 12:10 PM
#27
I was told by one of the guys that I work with that at room temp. the choke should be barely closed, and that it should open as the engine warms up. I take what you're saying as I should open it up fully at room temp. and see where it goes from there.
08-07-07, 06:54 PM
#29
so I just tried to start my 7 up, and I figured out that she's running PIG rich while my fuel pump is running. I have my running fuel psi set at 6psi, which is what the carb requires. If I get her running w/o the fuel pump fuse in, and I let her clear up, she'll rev no problem, but with the choke closed when at room temperature and the fuel pump running, she's running pig rich.
08-07-07, 08:05 PM
#30
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Sticking float or sticking needle/seat. Tap lightly on the fuel bowls, just above the float adjuster, and see if that helps.
Otherwise, you may have to lower the float level a hair more.
Otherwise, you may have to lower the float level a hair more.
08-07-07, 09:34 PM
#31
i tried tapping on the float bowl, and it didn't help, so i'm going to let the battery get a full charge overnight before I try and re-start her. I turned the low speed mix screw in all the way, and it was set to 1.5 turns out. I then backed it out .5 turns, and i'm going to try and get her running like that tomorrow, unless someone says that 1.5 turns is about right for the low speed mixture.
08-08-07, 06:16 AM
#33
. Does my needle setting sound right? .5 turns from seated, or is that too lean?
08-09-07, 06:17 AM
#34
back to the top it goes. I checked my float levels and ordered new seals for my float bowls yesterday. When my float bowls are inverted, my floats are above level, which means, according to the thread below, that my floats are too LOW, not too high . Right after I got my float bowl back on, I got a call to go and hang out with a guy I ran with in High School at a shitty bar, so I went to see him and I didn't get a chance to try and figure out what else my problem could be.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=holley+tuning
what else could it be?
. Right after I got my float bowl back on, I got a call to go and hang out with a guy I ran with in High School at a shitty bar, so I went to see him and I didn't get a chance to try and figure out what else my problem could be.https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=holley+tuning
what else could it be?
08-09-07, 10:10 AM
#38
so here is what I found through more searching today. An old thread (circa 2004) by FBII about tuning his Holley from RB. A link to the thread is below. Listening to the videos, it sounds like my 12a is running on one rotor, and it shook the entire car while attempting to run. In the thread, it says that the two idle mixture screws must be set to roughly the same number of turns from fully seated, and that if they are off from one another that the car will run on one rotor or not at all. Does my following plan of action sound like it would help out in getting my Holley-fed 12a running?
1. Deflood and put oil in combustion chambers
2. Seat both idle mixture screws
3. turn both out 1.5 turns
4. Seat idle speed screw
5. Turn out idle speed screw 1 turn to set high idle so I can tune from there
6. close choke
7. make sure that the accelerator pump actuation bolt isn't putting any pressure on accelerator pump lever
8. attempt to start.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=holley+tuning
1. Deflood and put oil in combustion chambers
2. Seat both idle mixture screws
3. turn both out 1.5 turns
4. Seat idle speed screw
5. Turn out idle speed screw 1 turn to set high idle so I can tune from there
6. close choke
7. make sure that the accelerator pump actuation bolt isn't putting any pressure on accelerator pump lever
8. attempt to start.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=holley+tuning
08-09-07, 11:26 AM
#39
Personally, you need to buy the holley book, it'll help a lot. My Holley makes my car rip. Yeah tuning is a pain, but you will learn a lot. finally, you can't beat a wideband for dialing your carb in right. It'll make sooo much difference not only with performance but economy as well. My car was ripping with the big holley, then i installed the wideband as saw how rich I'm running. So i put my smaller Edelbrock back on, dialed it in (so easy with the edelbrock) and I am getting about 40% better mileage (less power since the carb is smaller though). I can cruise with afr's around mid 14 and it'll immediately go to 11's under acceleration and hold there with no hesitation. Once i finish laying the new hardwood in the house, i'll focus on tuning the holley. i will get it to match the economy of the Edelbrock and rip in the topend rpm's.
08-09-07, 09:12 PM
#44
started, but choked out on fuel. trailing 2 fouled with soft carbon, but none of the others did. wtf? tried low speed screw 2 turns out, 4 turns out, and both started but neither would hold idle. tried adjusting the idle screw, and nothing. i'm starting to get discouraged.
08-09-07, 10:53 PM
#45
1200 gone......but......
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what rpm are you trying to let your brideport engine idle at? It needs to be high so that it doesn't foul out the plugs. What's your timing set at? Are all your spark plugs firing? Plugs wet after you try to start it and it stalls?
84Stock said, " My Holley makes my car rip. "
Yes it does.
84Stock said, " My Holley makes my car rip. "
Yes it does.
08-10-07, 12:22 AM
#46
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when u install this back did u check that the vacum line that comes from the brake boster was correct also . when the car is running get some one to hold it to idle check your float levels by removing the peep screws make sure that the flow of there is just a trickle that will show that the floats are correct. stop messing with mixture screws from what u saying when the car gets in higher rpms is running right so no need to mess with mixture screws. from the sound of the video this thing sounds very unhealthy almost running with one rotor. have you check spark with timing light . now to check for vacum leak by yourself starting fluid and spray it around the carb not directly in it and see if the car speeds up if it does bingo vacum leak.
08-10-07, 06:30 AM
#47
Before I rebuilt the carb I got it to idle at 1k rpm, and it was so smooth that I question the PO's statement that the engine is a BP. The thing is, I can't get it to idle at all. My float levels while off and the pump running are: primary, barely trickling out, secondary: not trickling out at all. I'm more worried about getting the primaries set and get the car running before I work on getting the secondary float dialed in (becasue with a low float level, i'm not going to be leaking fuel into the engine from the secondary side).
I didn't mess with the vacuum line going to the brake booster, nor did I get down there to even knock it loose. I'm pretty sure that there aren't any vacuum leaks, becasue both mating surfaces were clean and free of gouges when I put the carb back on. I'll try and get it running tonight again and see if there are any leaks.
Also, one question because I can't seem to remember and no one has mentioned it in any of the threads that I've checked out. The idle screw, is it the closer the screw is to bottoming out the higher your idle is, or is it the opposite way?
I didn't mess with the vacuum line going to the brake booster, nor did I get down there to even knock it loose. I'm pretty sure that there aren't any vacuum leaks, becasue both mating surfaces were clean and free of gouges when I put the carb back on. I'll try and get it running tonight again and see if there are any leaks.
Also, one question because I can't seem to remember and no one has mentioned it in any of the threads that I've checked out. The idle screw, is it the closer the screw is to bottoming out the higher your idle is, or is it the opposite way?