cptpain

iTrader: (1)

heres the scoop:.... last summer an apex seal spring collapsed and the seal sized. i had the motor rebuilt with excellent used housings. the rotors were also in good shape. the friend of mine who did the whole job got it to run for a mintue until it sprung a fuel leak. he couldt work on it no more cause he went to iraq. so it went into storage and every week i would go by and turn it over a few times to build oil pressure. another friend of mine got a hold of me and he said he could help me out. we fixed the leak...its was the fuel injector orings when they were installed(new) they were somehow trashed when the rail was bolted in. we fixed that and now the car wont start....we drained the gas tank and put new fuel in it, new spark plugs, dist. cap, rotor, and wires; all vacuum lines are replaced and correcly installed, new starter, new battery plugged into a batt maintainer, all that stuff....timing is spot on as far as im concerned....but the only way the dude who rebuilt it got it to run in the first place was a push start, the old starter was fried. but everything was fine when it ran just before we saw the fuel leak

the problem:

she wont turn over worth a damn! i mean we did almost everything to get it reliable and turn over. the guy whos helpin me now told me to get some starting fluid and get more gas to try again this weekend

any other suggestions? if nothing works im just going to carb her with a holley 600 and all she not my dd anyway...i got another -SE for that

Kentetsu

Quick question for you. Failure to turn over means that the motor will not rotate. Failure to start means the motor turns over, but will not run. Which is the case?

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

oh sorry i didnt clarify...the motor turns like a champ...compression is at 115psi on all sides and rotors give or take a few psi....just doesnt want to run

Kentetsu

Have you checked the plugs to make sure that you are getting fuel (should be a bit wet if not starting)? While you have the plug out, you might want to verify spark if you haven't already.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

yes there is spark, we have fuel...we turned over the motor with plugs out to make sure. also i have a question when doing this....is the fuel mist supposed to come out from the leading(bottom) plug holes first? or the trailing(top) plug holes first? cause what we saw was the mist coming from the leading side first....the motor turns the way it should..clockwise(looking at it facin the front cover)

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

An old rotary trick, cars that have been turned over or started for short periods of time, build up condensation inside the chambers, remove plugs like a flooded start and turn it over to remove all condensation/water, put new plugs in and try again. This condensation accumilates to become a barrier to the spark igniting the fuel air mix, this old trick is the way to get many a deserted RX running again.

Failing that have you checked for spark, fuel. There is only three things to get a car to run, fuel, air and spark, one of them isn't working for you.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Just an odd thought here. If it started before by being pull started, the the afm door was probably pulled open when the clutch was let out, starting the fuel pump, with the ignition in the on position. Try proping the afm door open to try to start it. If that works, then something is not hooked up correctly in the starting system.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

could it also be possible that i need to get another afm? by the way trochoid....what do you mean by "starting system"?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The fuel pump comes on in one of three ways, on the FI system. When the ignition is in the start position, when the ignition is in the on position and the afm door is open, or when the check connector is jumpered.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

whats the best way to see if my afm is working properly? cause i think thats whats wrong

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If it started and ran before, I think the problem lies elsewhere. Since you had the intake off to replace the o-rings, I would go back and recheck all of that. Easiest way to test the afm is try another, known, working one. If that is not available, check the FSM.

Before you go through all of that, check to see that you have fuel at the rails, spark at the plugs and that the plugs are clean and dry. I don't care if they are brand new, or used. I have fouled brand new ones before I could get an engine running. They looked clean and dry but would not spark enough to turn the engine over. A quick blast in the bead blaster, cleaning with brake clean and blown dry with compressed air, the engine would fire right up.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

i see....i will get new plugs and use the afm from my dd to see if it does the trick and will let everyone know next week

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If the new engine already has new plugs, clean them. I have brought old plugs back to life with the bead blaster. The critical part is how much wear there is on the electrode. If the electrode is good the plug can be salvaged, unless part of it is broken.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

i dont have a bead blaster and the plugs are autolite 2526's i bought them only to see if the motor will turn over guess imma have to buy the ngks

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Definiely NGKs, the Autocraps should be banned from the market. Brake cleaner and compressed air will work on plugs that are fuel fouled.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

ok..will do all that, buy NGK plugs, use dd's afm will update by next week, with good news hopefully