Rebuilt Eng Break-in
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
well, before you actually start it. crank it with the plugs out until you get an oil pressure reading.
then when you start it, let it run for a while as you check for leaks and such.
when you start to drive, keep the RPM below 4000, under load, for the first 500 miles. then, gradually increase it about 1000 RPM every 100 miles after that. oh yeah, and definitely try to stay away from free-revving it constantly. i know it's hard, but ...
when you get to the 1000 mile mark, change your oil and filter, and it should be broken in.
then when you start it, let it run for a while as you check for leaks and such.
when you start to drive, keep the RPM below 4000, under load, for the first 500 miles. then, gradually increase it about 1000 RPM every 100 miles after that. oh yeah, and definitely try to stay away from free-revving it constantly. i know it's hard, but ...
when you get to the 1000 mile mark, change your oil and filter, and it should be broken in.
#5
Rotary Freak
Start it with dino oil .crankwith no plugs to get oil pressure, when it fires up keep the idle up about 1000-1200 rpm to keep oil pressure up. Do not rev it past 3000rpm for some time. Watch the temps check for leaks. Drive slow for 500 miles,change oil drive below 5000rpm with no boost for 500 more miles, if all is well then boost alittle and up your rpm.after every thing is seated well and adjusted 1500-2000 miles change to synthetic oil and go for it
#6
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iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by gonzz
Also where is the oil pressure sensor at? I have to wire it in.. Swapped Eng to 13B 4 port..
Thanks,
Also where is the oil pressure sensor at? I have to wire it in.. Swapped Eng to 13B 4 port..
Thanks,
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#8
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Originally posted by duboisr
Start it with dino oil .crankwith no plugs to get oil pressure, when it fires up keep the idle up about 1000-1200 rpm to keep oil pressure up. Do not rev it past 3000rpm for some time. Watch the temps check for leaks. Drive slow for 500 miles,change oil drive below 5000rpm with no boost for 500 more miles, if all is well then boost alittle and up your rpm.after every thing is seated well and adjusted 1500-2000 miles change to synthetic oil and go for it
Start it with dino oil .crankwith no plugs to get oil pressure, when it fires up keep the idle up about 1000-1200 rpm to keep oil pressure up. Do not rev it past 3000rpm for some time. Watch the temps check for leaks. Drive slow for 500 miles,change oil drive below 5000rpm with no boost for 500 more miles, if all is well then boost alittle and up your rpm.after every thing is seated well and adjusted 1500-2000 miles change to synthetic oil and go for it
crazy person.
#10
The AUTO DOCTOR
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here are the breaking instructions i give on the motors i rebuild
500 mile no more than 3k rpm and change oil
500-1k miles no more than 4k
1k-1500 no more than 5k and change the oil
1500-2k no more than 6k
2k-2500 no more than 7k and change the oil
2500-3k no more than 8k
3k + change the oil plugs and kick some honda ***
thats to get a long life from your motor...
500 mile no more than 3k rpm and change oil
500-1k miles no more than 4k
1k-1500 no more than 5k and change the oil
1500-2k no more than 6k
2k-2500 no more than 7k and change the oil
2500-3k no more than 8k
3k + change the oil plugs and kick some honda ***
thats to get a long life from your motor...
#12
'84 5-letter
iTrader: (5)
Originally posted by diabolical1
well, before you actually start it. crank it with the plugs out until you get an oil pressure reading.
then when you start it, let it run for a while as you check for leaks and such.
when you start to drive, keep the RPM below 4000, under load, for the first 500 miles. then, gradually increase it about 1000 RPM every 100 miles after that. oh yeah, and definitely try to stay away from free-revving it constantly. i know it's hard, but ...
when you get to the 1000 mile mark, change your oil and filter, and it should be broken in.
well, before you actually start it. crank it with the plugs out until you get an oil pressure reading.
then when you start it, let it run for a while as you check for leaks and such.
when you start to drive, keep the RPM below 4000, under load, for the first 500 miles. then, gradually increase it about 1000 RPM every 100 miles after that. oh yeah, and definitely try to stay away from free-revving it constantly. i know it's hard, but ...
when you get to the 1000 mile mark, change your oil and filter, and it should be broken in.
1) How do you crank the engine? I've always wondered this. Also useful for when i'm doing ATF treatment (not using ATF tho).
2) How do i check for an oil pressure reading? My haynes manual is in the mail as we speak.
3) Where should i be looking for leaks? Hoses, exhaust, intake, your mom? (jk)
4) Is a K&N oil filter good for a GSL-SE 13b 6 port street port? I'mna be running an upgraded high volume oil pump.
5) How come i love my rex so much? Oh wait.. nm i know that one...
Thanks!
Geoff
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
i'm not sure if i get what you're asking about number 1 ... the key usually works pretty well for cranking the engine ... hehehehe.
if your gauge is working, then just wait until it starts to move. if your gauge is not working you might take the oil filter off and crank it 'til you get a big mess, but it's better to use the gauge.
check for leaks at the oil cooler points, the oil pan, the radiator hoses, water pumps, etc. anywhere where coolant or oil can get out. the exhaust is not a big deal, (to be honest, i usually fire up my motor for the first time without the exhaust on it), the intake is a small issse because it might not start, but when i said check for leaks, i was referring to coolant and oil. i won't touch the mother issue ...
i'd still use a Mazda filter. there is thread with a link that directfreak provided, (it should still be on the first page) the only variation i might suggest is to see if the T2 uses a filter with larger capacity ... just an idea.
if your gauge is working, then just wait until it starts to move. if your gauge is not working you might take the oil filter off and crank it 'til you get a big mess, but it's better to use the gauge.
check for leaks at the oil cooler points, the oil pan, the radiator hoses, water pumps, etc. anywhere where coolant or oil can get out. the exhaust is not a big deal, (to be honest, i usually fire up my motor for the first time without the exhaust on it), the intake is a small issse because it might not start, but when i said check for leaks, i was referring to coolant and oil. i won't touch the mother issue ...
i'd still use a Mazda filter. there is thread with a link that directfreak provided, (it should still be on the first page) the only variation i might suggest is to see if the T2 uses a filter with larger capacity ... just an idea.
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
here's the link to the thread with directfreak's link to the info on filters and thermostats ...
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=112954
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=112954
#16
I can has a Hemi? Yes...
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by gonzz
How long does it take to get oil pressure? Don't have a gauge.. will get one in the A.M.
How long does it take to get oil pressure? Don't have a gauge.. will get one in the A.M.
Get This:Oil Pressure & Temperture Adapter
and this:
Autometer Oil Pressure Gauge
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