deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

mine is all mucked up. if someone has their car apart and can snap some picks of how their wiring is routed on the whole thing thats be great.

i'll try to get some pics of mine up later today.

-nick

83Limited

Mine is apart, will try to remember to snap ya some pics tonight. If ya dont see anything on this post, shoot me a PM to remind me.....

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

thanks much! the wiring diagram is very vague when it comes to the actual switch assembly. i know more or less whats going on. but an actual picture will help a lot

83Limited

Ok, now ya got me confused....you want the routing at the switch or to the doors? My switch and dash are still intact, so pictures are out on the switch end, but the doors are accessible for pictures if thats what ya needed....

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

rear view mirror. not side view.

theres some issue with the way mine is wired up. the dome lights etc come on when only the right side door opens. dont come on at all when the switch is set to on. and the rocker light doesnt work.

the bulb works. so, there some issue with the wiring in and around the switch.

i guess the only reason i said mirror assembly is because its all attached. but i need the wiring for the dome/interior lights.

my bad

-Nick

83Limited

thats what i thought st first but then thought you wanted sideview...will snap what i can on the center rear view abd get em posted for you.

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

thanks much

demongo

iTrader: (2)

I've fixed two of the 1st-gen dome light/reading light units in the last six months and have a couple of suggestions.

I will also try to get you a couple of pictures to show how the wiring goes.

1) The reading light/rocker light switch depends heavily on an exposed sliding metal contact for proper functioning. I found that there tends to be surface corrosion/rust on these contacts that can result in intermittent operation of the light. I would use a light application of a dremel tool or sandpaper to go over these contact surfaces of the reading light to remove , and be sure to check continuity with a voltmeter.

2) The main (On-Door-Off) switch for the dome light is also susceptible to corrosion and rust, but can be harder to clean. If you can perform a close inspection and check continuity with a voltmeter, you can try to confirm or eliminate the switch itself as a problem. If the switch itself seems to not allow current flow, you can try to clean contacts.

My experience is that carefully checking all the circuit paths for continuity with a voltmeter should allow you to identify the specific points of failure. The diagram in the Wiring Manual was very helpful in this regard.

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

ive got continuity everywhere where theres a connection. im thinking im missing a ground. or its wired up wrong.

83Limited

What you can see of the circuit to the RV mirror is simple.....two wires up out of the dash on the driver winshield pillar, and around the top of thewindshiled frame to the spot where the RV mirror sits. No grounds at this area that I can see. The wires running to the door pins are not accessible for pictures that I can get, so I dont know how much help any of my stuff will be, but heres the "upper" section pictures....starting at the dash and working its way up and around, there is sorta a trough it fits in....

Out of dash and up windshield pillar, drivers side....



Up pillar and turns the corner to go across windshield frame...



Across windshield frame to opening behind where mirror assembly sits....

demongo

iTrader: (2)

Are you testing the unit *in* the car? Or on the bench?

Because...if you're testing it "on the bench" it *may not* appear to function correctly, even if completely correctly wired. You have to be careful with where your grounds are for the test.

When I started working on mine, I was convinced that something was completely screwed up in the wiring because I had confirmed all continuity, new bulbs, etc., but the lights wouldn't function correctly on the workbench where I was operating.

When I test-installed it in the car, with the proper relative grounding of the frame, it worked perfectly.

I'll try to post some pics tonight to explain what I mean.

demongo

iTrader: (2)

http://s1242.photobucket.com/albums/gg537/demongo1/

demongo

iTrader: (2)

"DOME LIGHT A" and "DOME LIGHT B" simply refer to connection points in the circuit.

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

thank you sooo much!!!

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

so my unit is all wired up correctly. then why why why do all the chimes and door lights only work when the right side door opens?!? ive got the wiring harness out from behind the drivers seat and have torn out all the trunk trying to find the loose connections. but according to the wiring diagram. its one wire coming from the cpu, that splits, then splits again. it makes noo sense to me

demongo

iTrader: (2)

You may just have to be very methodical in your continuity checking. Unless your harness has been hacked, the problem may just be poor or loose connections.

For instance, I'd start with the door switches and try to get them to correctly operate the dome light when in the "Door" setting.

The reading light should work completely independently of the door switches and CPU connection; if that isn't functioning correctly you could also focus on getting that working.

Good luck.