Rear Suspension Piece Changing Problem
09-30-08, 07:29 PM
#1
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Rear Suspension Piece Changing Problem
So i got my rear suspension bar from RX7Club Vendor680RWHP12A the other day, as i broke the bar (previous post). And i change the passenger side first, simple bolts slid out easy.
Now the driver side got the front one out fairly simple, but the back one just didnt wanna come out. Smashed on the end of the bolt with a hammer till the bolt was falttened against the threads. IMpossible to Thread nut back on, so me and my buddy decided to grab teh "grinder" and we chopped the front off no problem, and workn on the back of the bolt with the head and get bout 1/2 way threw, stopped, tried threw the bushing on teh old one, but not enough blade to get threw all the way. Try again on the end and the grind disc broke and flew at us. So we stopped trying.
Now im looking for smarter ideas on how to get it out?
Also i checked around at Napa (auto parts store), Blot supply house, and A&B steel and none had this type of bolt in the grade 8 (i believe they called it) steel in metric. So i think my only option for that is go back to Bolt Supply House and find a Grade 8 imperial bolt that is same size and ge tthe nut/locking washer that matches? just wanted to check if thats what you guys would do? or brighter idea?
And i Got pictures!
Old Broken Bar. i decided to chop again to vent the anger of an incomplete project a little....
chopped off bolt
Far as got in before disc broke.
Lookn for the smart idea? and maybe the bolt/nut/lockin washer?
Edit: Nevermind on that bold my step dad told me The Bolt House can order that stuff in, so i got some chick that didnt no what she was doing apparently... or maybe step dad dumb? hmm...
Now the driver side got the front one out fairly simple, but the back one just didnt wanna come out. Smashed on the end of the bolt with a hammer till the bolt was falttened against the threads. IMpossible to Thread nut back on, so me and my buddy decided to grab teh "grinder" and we chopped the front off no problem, and workn on the back of the bolt with the head and get bout 1/2 way threw, stopped, tried threw the bushing on teh old one, but not enough blade to get threw all the way. Try again on the end and the grind disc broke and flew at us. So we stopped trying.
Now im looking for smarter ideas on how to get it out?
Also i checked around at Napa (auto parts store), Blot supply house, and A&B steel and none had this type of bolt in the grade 8 (i believe they called it) steel in metric. So i think my only option for that is go back to Bolt Supply House and find a Grade 8 imperial bolt that is same size and ge tthe nut/locking washer that matches? just wanted to check if thats what you guys would do? or brighter idea?
And i Got pictures!
Old Broken Bar. i decided to chop again to vent the anger of an incomplete project a little....
chopped off bolt
Far as got in before disc broke.
Lookn for the smart idea? and maybe the bolt/nut/lockin washer?
Edit: Nevermind on that bold my step dad told me The Bolt House can order that stuff in, so i got some chick that didnt no what she was doing apparently... or maybe step dad dumb? hmm...
Last edited by Brayden89; 09-30-08 at 07:58 PM. Reason: correction
10-01-08, 06:53 PM
#3
You need to replace it with a stock bolt.
More than likely any bolt that is readily available to be "ordered in" will not be the correct "grip length".
The stock bolt is not threaded all the way down the shaft. If you replace it with a bolt that is threaded all the way or even threaded more than the stock bolt you can have problems. Why? well that is a highly stressed bolt. If you have threaded portion of the bolt within the bracket or rear arm then the threads will start to scar the inside of the mating pieces. This can cause the pieces to fail. Also, the threaded portion of a bolt is the weakest spot (Unless you are using cheap, crap bolts that do not have a radius under the head) and can fail under the stress.
The "grip length" is the amount of non-threaded portion of the bolt.
Ok, I am done
-billy
More than likely any bolt that is readily available to be "ordered in" will not be the correct "grip length".
The stock bolt is not threaded all the way down the shaft. If you replace it with a bolt that is threaded all the way or even threaded more than the stock bolt you can have problems. Why? well that is a highly stressed bolt. If you have threaded portion of the bolt within the bracket or rear arm then the threads will start to scar the inside of the mating pieces. This can cause the pieces to fail. Also, the threaded portion of a bolt is the weakest spot (Unless you are using cheap, crap bolts that do not have a radius under the head) and can fail under the stress.
The "grip length" is the amount of non-threaded portion of the bolt.
Ok, I am done
-billy
10-01-08, 07:13 PM
#4
Best way to remove those bolts is to soak them for a couple with PB Blaster, then pick up a cheap 20 buck air hammer. Use the pointed bit that comes with the kit to 'hammer' the bolt out. The bolt sits in a steel sleeve that sits inside the bushing, they rust together. The sleeve won't come out because it's diameter is larger than the hole in the bracket, but it will spin inside of the bushing and chew up the bushing.
Be sure to grease the shaft, 'grip length', of the bolt to prevent it from rusting in place again.
Be sure to grease the shaft, 'grip length', of the bolt to prevent it from rusting in place again.
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