85 FB

Okay, here's the deal, and mostly a big "IF" question because I have not heard from Mariah Motorsports yet.

My left rear caliper is frozen. It's been frozen, and now it's at the point where there is no pad left, and the rotor is starting to get chewn up by the metal of the old pad. Now, the problem is that I won't have funds to get this thing fixed until mid-March. Now, during mid-March, hopefully I'll have quite a bit of funds to get some stuff besides just a brake job.

Here's my question: should I install slotted rotors onto the rear? Since mine will need replacing anyways. The shop will already be putting on Hawk brake pads, and said that they are extremely good on stock rotors even, so would this be a big help, or should I just stick with one replacement rotor and the Hawk pads? I'm also planning on getting stainless steel brake lines, too. Mariah's website says they have them as a pair for $172 (but I'm awaiting an e-mail from them to see if they still carry them).

Slotted rotors or stock replacement (with Hawk pads) ?

jimmdog

No, Rear Brakes Dont do much. Unless you plan on doing some kind of endurance racing I would go with some quality non slotted rotors

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Unless you plan on tracking the car, it's probably overkill.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

You should replace BOTH rear rotors at the same time. I wouldnt get slotted rears. Maybe fronts though. They do have a "cool" factor though being all slotted...

85 FB

Actually the cool factor is only applicable to drilled rotors, which are not a good buy in my opinion because of the fact that they are always known for cracking around the holes due to stress. Slotted rotors do a cleaning effect because of the slots sweeping past the pads.

I might just go for high quality stock rotors. Anyone know of a brand or website/company that sells such things? Or, should I just go with what I can get at an autoparts store?

Eriks85Rx7

i have some cross drilled slotted rotors they work fine and holding up very well. My rear calipers are also frozen. I had to hammer the caliper back so i could drive it again and the pad got burnt against the rotor and still crackinb even after being dragged around. sorry to high jack the thread but what does it mean when you push the brakes and the cars pulls to right?

85 FB

It would either mean that particular rotor on that side of the car is locking up and grabbing or the opposite side won't grab.

Eriks85Rx7

ok its def the rear the back brake. i guess i just need to get those new calipers asap.. its soo annoying have to hold onto the wheel when u brakeor it might go into the other lane

85 FB

Since my Rex is my only means of transportation, I found a semi-temporary solution to my locked caliper and chewing up my rotor. I put some motor oil onto the rotor itself to avoid as much friction as possible. Hey, what better way to stop that annoying "Crunch crunch" noise than to use something meant to provide lubrication against hot metal items? I got a simple plastic syringe (not a needle one, tho) to make it easier to add oil onto the rotor and pad lining to keep it from really making hell. At least now I can brake (I'm watching my braking technique still to avoid placing heavy pressure onto the rears and grind even more) a bit easier not worrying how bad the gouges are getting. If yours is locking (as long as it's just one), I suggest a bit of motor oil. My other 3 brakes are still holding up...........knock on wood.

And, my car still brakes straight, so I knew the oil wouldn't **** up my braking in the first place.