Rear rotor ALL seals stuck
07-03-15, 12:24 PM
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Rear rotor ALL seals stuck
I need to disassemble a rear rotor with stuck seals. So far I have been able to remove one stuck apex. Other seals are just completely stuck in the rotor. Any way to remove these without trashing them? Rotor has been soaking in parts cleaner for over a week.
Thanks
Thanks
07-03-15, 01:10 PM
#2
i have to ask. can you tell if the rotor itself is damaged in any way?
this is what works for me, but it may be a good idea to wait for more input. i find better ways to do things i've done for years, (and they're usually so simple) by listening to others around here. Jeff20B and J9fd3s may see this and have something even better to say. it would be worth it, in my opinion.
anyway, here goes:
go at the apex seals from the corner pieces with a small flathead (the ones for tiny screws). get the corner pieces out and then you can get the rest of the apex seal. unless they are already broken or breaking, they should be fine.
next you want to use something to rotate the corner seals so you can tap them out with a larger (but small) flathead. again, they should be fine unless you go at the hamfisted or they were already injured. you want to be firm, but gentle and even. think of them as pistons in a bore. you don't want to apply any significant sideways pressures.
finally, you can go at the side seals. try to pry them out with the tiny flathead. unfortunately, they don't really tolerate much physicality. they will flex a bit, but they can and will break even taking care with them. so just be prepared to lose a few.
while doing all of the above, i have 3 MAJOR motes. (1) it's a good idea to soak the **** out of the seals and slots with some kind of penetrant (PB Blaster, WD40, Liquid wrench, etc.). take breaks to soak it during the process. for example once you crack (get it to turn) a corner seal, soak it and let it sit for minute or two before trying to get it out the slot. (2) do your best not to leverage the screwdriver (or whatever you use) against the slots themselves. this mostly goes for the apex seals because you can't really fit anything next to a corner or side seal. it seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning. pry the apex seal from underneath (by the springs). (3) take your time and be patient. frustration can lead to a heavy-handed approach. that's not healthy for a rotor you plan to use.
this is what works for me, but it may be a good idea to wait for more input. i find better ways to do things i've done for years, (and they're usually so simple) by listening to others around here. Jeff20B and J9fd3s may see this and have something even better to say. it would be worth it, in my opinion.
anyway, here goes:
go at the apex seals from the corner pieces with a small flathead (the ones for tiny screws). get the corner pieces out and then you can get the rest of the apex seal. unless they are already broken or breaking, they should be fine.
next you want to use something to rotate the corner seals so you can tap them out with a larger (but small) flathead. again, they should be fine unless you go at the hamfisted or they were already injured. you want to be firm, but gentle and even. think of them as pistons in a bore. you don't want to apply any significant sideways pressures.
finally, you can go at the side seals. try to pry them out with the tiny flathead. unfortunately, they don't really tolerate much physicality. they will flex a bit, but they can and will break even taking care with them. so just be prepared to lose a few.
while doing all of the above, i have 3 MAJOR motes. (1) it's a good idea to soak the **** out of the seals and slots with some kind of penetrant (PB Blaster, WD40, Liquid wrench, etc.). take breaks to soak it during the process. for example once you crack (get it to turn) a corner seal, soak it and let it sit for minute or two before trying to get it out the slot. (2) do your best not to leverage the screwdriver (or whatever you use) against the slots themselves. this mostly goes for the apex seals because you can't really fit anything next to a corner or side seal. it seems obvious, but it's worth mentioning. pry the apex seal from underneath (by the springs). (3) take your time and be patient. frustration can lead to a heavy-handed approach. that's not healthy for a rotor you plan to use.
07-03-15, 02:13 PM
#3
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Thanks. I managed to remove one corner seal and 2 apex seals. One side seal is loose at one end but stuck everywhere else. I'll continue to patiently try. I would love to save the seals but it may not be possible..
Thanks
Thanks
07-03-15, 02:30 PM
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did it get water on it? iron rotor + iron seal + water = clock
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07-03-15, 08:11 PM
#8
I used to buy carb cleaner in 5 gallon bucket. It came with a metal basket. It was safe on aluminum and steel. It would dissolve carbon as I used to soak all small motor parts in it, such as carbs, intake valves exhaust valves and so on. It did a good job ( not magic) of loosening carbon. I would occasionally remove the parts, brush the carbon again ( to loosen it) and dunk it again.
The cost of this was fairly high, over 50 dollars a pail, but like I said, I used it a lot.
This type of submersing in chemical may be good in your situation.
Good luck
The cost of this was fairly high, over 50 dollars a pail, but like I said, I used it a lot.
This type of submersing in chemical may be good in your situation.
Good luck
07-04-15, 04:41 PM
#11
Rear rotor ALL seals stuck
If its carboned up real bad, why not torch it? A propane torch shouldn't get hot enough to damage the rotors any, and it should burn off the carbon
Do it on 2 cycle lawn boy mufflers all the time, they always plug solid with carbon
Do it on 2 cycle lawn boy mufflers all the time, they always plug solid with carbon
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