1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

rear link removal

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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 07:04 PM
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slashdawg00110's Avatar
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From: Olathe, KS USA
rear link removal

I'm trying to pull the LSD rear from my GSL. I got it one end of each bar off on the left side. I got one end of the upper off on the right side, and I got the nut off the lower at the axle but the bolt won't come out. It turns but springs back so I assume it's bonded to the bushing. I've hammered at the bolt but it won't come loose. Any ideas before I drag out the angle grinder and cthrough the damn bar?
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Lot's of P B Blaster, heat if you don't care about the bushing. I've also used an air chisel, pointed tip. I've found that the vibration can often loosen the rust that bonds the sleeve to the bolt. You can pick up a kit with different points for under 25 bucks.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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From: Wheeling WV
Why are you taking off your lsd rearend? I'd like to have one for my 84 GS.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by zephyr07
Why are you taking off your lsd rearend? I'd like to have one for my 84 GS.
It's going on my '79, along with the front spindles. The GSL was hit and is too rusty to spend more money on. So I took the insurance settlement $$ and bought a '79.

Originally Posted by trochoid
Lot's of P B Blaster, heat if you don't care about the bushing. I've also used an air chisel, pointed tip. I've found that the vibration can often loosen the rust that bonds the sleeve to the bolt. You can pick up a kit with different points for under 25 bucks.
Used a hell of a lot of PBlaster already, no good. Have a set of chisels, 3 or 4 different points. So teh sleeve is what's bonded to the bolt? THat makes sense. So where do I chisel at? Do I go between the tang from the axle housing and the arm end, into the rubber? I know I can use the torch, but I don't want the odor. everything seems to seep into the house and I don't need that if I can help it.

Last edited by slashdawg00110; Oct 8, 2006 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Use the pointed chisel to drive the bolt out. Place it right on the end of the bolt. Works on the front lower arm to subframe bolts too. Iirc, the sleeve won't fit through the bolt hole on the bracket. If you can't seperate the bolt from the steel sleeve, you will need to sawzall the bolt on both sides of the arm, inside the bracket, not fun.

Finding spare bolts isn't a problem, sleeves might be.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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From: Olathe, KS USA
Originally Posted by trochoid
Use the pointed chisel to drive the bolt out. Place it right on the end of the bolt. Works on the front lower arm to subframe bolts too. Iirc, the sleeve won't fit through the bolt hole on the bracket. If you can't seperate the bolt from the steel sleeve, you will need to sawzall the bolt on both sides of the arm, inside the bracket, not fun.

Finding spare bolts isn't a problem, sleeves might be.
THanks. Will try it tomorrow. I have the bolts on the SA, along with the links, so all is cool as far as that goes. I also have a complete bushing kit, so I think I'm covered on sleeves. My weekend schedule is ugly for the next month or so, but I need to prep the LSD rear before transplanting it, so I may be able to come up to St Joe and see how you remove the bushings. Or if you're coming to the bbq you can explain it then.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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From: Convoy, Ohio, USA
I used a sawzal, worked great, picked up the right size at Fastenal and remember to grease them when reinstalling.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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I've had to cut through the bolt on both sides of the bushing by hand a few times. Takes awhile but never had success anyother way. Just part of owning an old car
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