1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Rear hatch motor quit

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 09:41 AM
  #1  
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Rear hatch motor quit

My rear hatch motor quit on me yesterday and I'm not sure what my options are.
The hatch is down and is restricting me from getting to other projects I have been working on.
Is the motor something I can pick up at Radio shack or maybe something Mazda still has in stock? (yeah right) anything will help me right now.
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 10:52 AM
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Rear hatch releases are mechanical. There were two styles, one purely mechanical and one with the eletrically operated remote (dash mounted) switch. I've had a couple of the dash switches go bad over the years and would suspect that first.

Both the hatch releases and dash switches can be found here on the fourms or from places like apex auto. You can still open it with the key from the outside correct?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:12 PM
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I have the dash button.
The key won't turn and when I push the switch all I hear is a small buzzing noise like the motor is trying to open.
Would it just need some lubricant?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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It's starting to sound something more mechanical.
I'll take it out and have a look at it later today.
What would be the first thing to look for?
Is it a set of open gears or is it a servo?
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:36 AM
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If it's making noise when you push the button, then I'd say the dash switch is ok. The Key won't turn the lock? Something sounds froze. You'll have to crawl in the back and get behind the rear carpet. You should be able to manually release the hatch. Once its open, you'll have to poke around to see what may be wrong. I agree, sounds like it may be mechanically jammed in some way. You may have to remove it to get a good look. The mechanism should operate freely with little resistance.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 07:45 AM
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From: fwb, fl
i have all of my trunk torn apart right now i can snap some pics for you later today if you havent torn into it by then. its a fairly simply system.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by deadphoenix52
i have all of my trunk torn apart right now i can snap some pics for you later today if you havent torn into it by then. its a fairly simply system.
Yes please.

Last night I had to stay later at work and didn't have any time.
If you could snap a couple pictures It'll let me know what I'm going to be looking at when get mine out tonight.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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From: fwb, fl
here ya go..

the block to the left is the mechanism to open the hatch.


http://youtu.be/SwI-98gVKSM

heres a short video on how it works. it pulls the hatch release

good luck
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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Thanks for the video.
I crawled into the back and opened the hatch manually.
Something inside the motor box broke or froze.

Here is a picture of the hook that connect to the hatch release.
Should I try popping it out?
Or there is the gap in the plastic do I squeeze that together for it to more out?
The metal bracket it's connected to it is really weak and any weight added to it will bend it.
Attached Thumbnails Rear hatch motor quit-break-.jpg  

Last edited by Redliner223; Mar 5, 2012 at 06:45 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 08:26 PM
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The clip snaps on the rod. To release, rotate the plastic clip down off the rod and pull the rod straight out of the hole.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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These types of clips fool people at first. There similar to the door lock clips.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 01:51 PM
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Update: I tried rotating the clip but it won't budge.
In which way do I rotate it?
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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From: KC
clockwise
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 05:23 PM
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It's turning but it's just twisting itself and not sliding off.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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On the picture you posted of the clip, push the little tab on the righ down. This will remove the clip from the rod. Then the rod will pull out of the latch.
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Old Mar 12, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Ohhhhh.... I was actually twisting it, I'll give it another go tomorrow in the morning.
Thank you.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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I got it out finally.
The outside looks brand new except a little connection with a tad bit of rust on it.
where the arm comes out there is an opening to look into.
The motor has a metal spur in which turns a plastic gear.
There are four clips holding the body together once the camera is gone charging I'll open her up.


Thanks KansasCityREPU.
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:14 PM
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Alright so here are some pictures when it's opened up.
I concentrated my whole day on this.
Once opened all of the gears just slid on out.
It's confirmed that there is something wrong with the motor. All of the hears are free to move with nothing restricting them but when you try to move the motor it's frozen.
Attached Thumbnails Rear hatch motor quit-1.jpg   Rear hatch motor quit-2.jpg   Rear hatch motor quit-3.jpg   Rear hatch motor quit-4.jpg   Rear hatch motor quit-5.jpg  

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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 04:17 PM
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Anyone know where I can find a suitable replacement?
Attached Thumbnails Rear hatch motor quit-viewer.png  
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 07:29 PM
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Put a wanted ad in the for sale section. Someone has one for cheap. There's one on that auction site for cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/First-genera...e46e75&vxp=mtr

Last edited by KansasCityREPU; Mar 13, 2012 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Added eBay Link
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Old Mar 13, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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I already tried posting two separate wanted ads for an antenna but they were never posted.
Unfortunately the ebay ad if for an fb putting the hatch release on the opposite side.
Ugh, I hate this whole sa is different from fb thing. I wish they shared more parts with similar wiring, but at the same time that's what makes working on these cars fun and a challenge.
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 05:19 PM
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So I was able to pick up a working rear hatch solenoid and well I get a little bit more response out of it. The arm somewhat moves.
Could it be the button went bad? What voltage reading should I see? 12V?
I checked the wiring system and it shows a direct connection from the button to the motor.
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Old Apr 3, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Anyone?
Anything will help.
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
I've had a couple of the dash switches go bad over the years and would suspect that first.
Like I said back in post #2. I'd suspect the dash switch first. It pays to have an extra or two of this switch, as well as the three in the main face plate safely tucked away for rainy days like this. If you have a problem, just plug in another known good switch to begin isolating the problem. And yes, all these switches can be had by/at the previously mentioned places/methods.
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