bikeordie092

iTrader: (2)

So, from what I'm gathering here is that disc=LSD? only reason I'm asking is because there is a 5-letter at the junkyard with FACTORY disc, but I spin one wheel and the other goes opposite direction... but it should be LSD, right? Maybe it needs rebuilt? And would it even be worth buying if it needs rebuilt?

nff

is there a way to tell trim level with the vin code? because my car has no designation at all. but it dose have a sun roof?


as for the SE in the junk yard maybe someone blew the LSD and slaped an open in it? who knows

bikeordie092

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and I already have an 82 GSL, with factory drums and an open diff. I have all service records and everything and bought it from the original owner who told me it is a GSL, and from what I hear, only the 3&5 letter cars have a sunroof? Idk if there's any truth to that, but mine does have a factory sunroof as well.

bikeordie092

iTrader: (2)

I also read somewhere that if the car sits dormant for a while that the LSD may give a false "reading" for lack of better words lol... anyone know about that?

Dave.Martin2008

Ok this junk yard crap is starting to make sense. I can not get the e brake to go completely tight and the rear shoes are not grabbing he way I want them too. In fact they don't really grab at all engender with the pedal. So I guess I'll hunt for a correct rear end and put this car right again.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The GS is the option level where the sunroof started. All GSL's got the leather and power steering as options.

Fungus Mungus

iTrader: (9)

Small correction...the S and GS models from '84-85 are large bearing, open drum. That is, all '84-85 models had big bearings according to the '84 and '85 parts catalogs.

fm

Dave.Martin2008

Ok so I have the wrong rear end in my car. So the next this is to either swap it back out or make it work correctly. The E-Brake is not working correctly pulled all the equip it will not completely lock the rear wheels. And so if that is not pulling far enough then the brake shoes are not extending all the way to lock the rear end also and this makes seance after I replaced the pads in the front I checked the rear and it didn't even look like they had been used. So do I need to find a different cable for the e-brake and a different master cylinder for the drum brakes?

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

You need an ebrake cable and brake master cylinder from a GSL model.

And the entire rear axle disc to disc.

And some hand cleaner.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I could've sworn I remember seeing a few GS cars with rear disc brakes WAY back in the day. I think it was an option. I've also seen a few PS pumps on S3 12a's too. That was a pretty rare option

Dave.Martin2008

Well got a chance to change out the rear end grease and I also did the transmission. The rear end came out looking like heavy metallic silver paint and the front smelled worse then most rear end grease I have changed out. I feel I have another problem and that's the clutch assembly. I am getting a vibration from the trani. and the gears don't want to mesh correctly. I found fiber meshing coming out of the hole by the starter/bell housing. I am sure I exploited one of the clutch pads on the plate. So I am looking at a few at RockAuto.com. Not bad priced but I want to make sure I am getting a good one for the work this will take splitting and sliding a new assembly in. Any thoughts on the dura last brand ones at autozone. I tend to shy away from those brands.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Exedy clutch kit 135 shipped eBay.

Dave.Martin2008

I just ordered a RynoPak clutch kit. Should be everything I need. I should see it sometime on Monday. And it needs to be done before Friday. I am taking the wife to the Fast and Furious 6 movie and would prefer to drive the RX7 and not the minivan.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Redline MT-90 is a phenomenal transmission fluid, shifts like butter and you can even buy it by the gallon. You have to get trans fluid that is brass or 'yellow metal' friendly. GL-4 which is real hard to find. NAPA sells some STA-LUBE brand at a good price.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I got 2 of the rhino pack clutches from rock auto. My sons auto to 5 speed swap one is doing fine. He learned how to drive a 5 speed on his and year later it still bites good. Lol

In the gold turd I'm rebuilding the 12a I had in there grabbed real good. I noticed some familiar looking springs in one of the storage bins but didn't think much about it. When pulled the motor and trans I see why. They replaced the clutch right before they parked the car. The clutch plate, disc and bearing look PERFECT. Plate was a little dusty but not bad at all. I say it's got to have less than 100 miles on it. The disc says valor on it.

mazdaspeedrex

I've used Luk clutches in my 7's and I've been autocrossing and rallycrossing them without issues. I don't know who makes Autozones clutches now but they used to sell Cumberland which weren't bad.

Dave.Martin2008

My Rhino Pak clutch set came today. Can you guess what I am doing tonight?

Whizbang

alternatively, you can just pull the third member and replace it with a limited slip variant (or the other direction if you killed your lsd and only had an open on hand) and so long as your match bearing size the axles slide right back in. viola!

assuming your content with drums and dont want to swap lines, masters and bias stuff.

the 84/85 big bearing stuff is nicer since you can pull the lsd from other 7" stuff like GXLs or Miatas (supposedly)

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

Yeah a torsen is a real nice limited slip and never needs rebuilding since it's all gear operated. But the rx7 clutch pack type get it done too, and you can increase the grabby by adding thicker discs.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

it was.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

no, you'd have to swap axles, which is common, we've all done it here, for example.

the 84-85 GSL and GSL-SE had power steering as an option, so its possible on an 84-85 12A, although its kind of rare

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the GSL-SE will, but for a 12A you can look at the body, and it will tell you.

81-85:

if there is a factory sunroof, its at least a GS, some years its optional on the GS, but there is no S with a factory sunroof.

behind the sunroof, if there are two small holes for the rear washer nozzle, its a GSL or GSL-SE. only these models got the rear wiper/washer.

this makes it very easy to tell if you have GS/GSL although S/GS can be tricky.

dougingraham

Or stuck a GSL badge on it.

All GSL's had solid rear disk and limited slip. GSL-SE have vented rear disks as well as the 114 bolt pattern and 14 inch rims.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I didn't think about the badge swap, those sneaky bastards.

Dave.Martin2008

Yeh its not a GSL. Someone put the bagde on it. It's now been removed. And my rear brakes are not working correctly because the parking brake cable is stretched out too far. It will have to be replaced now.