jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

Dropped off the axles and bearings today. Couldn't go by the shop until just before closing time, so I'm picking them up tomorrow (hopefully).

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The "Belt Trick" makes reassembling drum brakes much easier.
Make sure you get the e-brake arm on the shoe the right way around, as it is a bit confusing the first time.

OCDHerb

Make sure the machine shop puts the spacers back in. Mine didn't. I couldn't figure out why the drums were contacting the backing plate and locking up the rear wheels. After several discussions someone on the forum, thank god, told me to check for spacers. Sure enough they weren't there. 85 dollars later. I'm back in business. Now all I need to do is reinstall the !@#$%^&*( drum brakes. The job I hate most. Herb

OCDHerb

Sorry to hijack the post but it is related.... What is the "belt trick" for replacing drum brakes? Herb

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

If you use a nylon strap with a buckle, or other similar "belt" to hold the shoes in place against the cylinder and the adjusters, getting the springs and retainers on is very easy.

TomSmy

iTrader: (11)

You my man are a GENIUS!

Just did this with a ratchet strap, holy crap did it ever make putting the springs on easier

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

So ... $63 later, I have my axles back. And my retaining collar is present.

For bearing grease - is there a particular type or brand I should be looking for? Do I just smear it on with a gloved hand, or what?

Again, thanks for helping a noob out.

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

This spring - should I have gotten a new set with my seals, or will I see it present (and reuse it) when I remove the old seal?

GSLSEforme

If you turn your new seal(s)over,you can see the spring on backside of seal lip. This is what provides the tension to hold lip against bearing collar. The void between the seal lip and the inside surface of outer shell of seal should be filled with grease dabbed in with your finger till the void is filled to prevent spring from popping off lip while installing seal. Any good wheel bearing grease can be used,same as what you use to pack your front wheel bearings,can be bought at any auto parts store in a tub or in a cartridge to be used in a grease gun. I wear gloves as it makes cleanup of hands easier. Be certain when removing old axle seals from housing that old springs are still in seal and not left behind in axle housing. Look on backside of seal,spring should be there. Once new seal installed,smear a little grease on seal lip surface and surface of bearing retainer that seal rides on when in installed position. When installing axle,be gentle sliding back in,try to keep centered. Temporarily screw in lug bolts to give you some leverage here. You can use a hammer and block of wood on axle flange after removing lug bolts to help seat the axle into housing. Sometimes they slide right in,sometimes a little assist is needed.
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KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I would also suggest using a axle seal remover and not a screwdriver.

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

Started reassembly tonight (I've been traveling lately, so this has had to wait - again, thanks for everyone's help!)

I am using Autozone's high-temp grease. Is this okay?

Also, pretty sure I got grease on things that shouldn't have grease on them. For instance, around the opening of the axle housing(right term?) where the bearing and collar will rest. Will this cause grief?

Oh - and is there a specific torque for the four nuts that hold the shield to the end of the axle housing? I have a service manual, but didn't see anything in it.

Again, thanks!

GSLSEforme

Grease used is fine. Wipe off whatever you can from axle housing,no harm as long as it doesn't come in contact with brake shoes. Regarding retainer plate hardware,have done many over years,never torqued them. You get a feel for this after awhile. If you're looking for a #,that size fastener, 20ft.lbs. is about right

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

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jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

Oops. Sorry about the huge pictures. So, I think I have success. New brakes and wheel cylinders in the back, drained and refilled the differential, bled the brakes (a first for me). Double-checked that I (so far) have no leaks.

I think a little drive is in order....

Thanks you all for your help!

GSLSEforme

May be too late... probably back on ground and driving now,looks like red spring under wheel cylinder may not be fully seated in hole to left in pic. Push dust boot on wheel cylinder-right side in pic all the way on. Take some sandpaper and sand out the grease on surface of shoes. Everything else looks good.

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

Thank you! I'll let it cool down and take the wheel and drum off and do that. One other (well, maybe one) question - the parking brake. I jacked up the rear, took the cover off the parking brake handle, and adjusted the screw some; because the parking brake wasn't keeping the car from rolling. It's better now, but not such that I'd trust it on a slope. Is there a limit to how far I can tighten the parking brake cable?

GSLSEforme

Correct brake shoe adjustment is critical to parking brake operation. This needs to be done first.
Recommend putting car up on jack stands... back off the adjustment you made at parking brake handle til you have slack in cable. Adjust brake shoes both sides til you feel wheel dragging slightly,turning wheel between adjustments,do same on other wheel. This will probably firm up your brake pedal also(less travel). Now adjust parking brake such that it stops/tightens/holds car at 3-4 clicks. Should be right where you need to be. Road test car again and see if brake pedal feel is better,try parking brake,should work properly. If not you'll want to pull drums and make sure everything installed correctly(spreader bar) that pushes both shoes against drums for parking brake.

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

I'm having a bear of a time adjusting the brake adjuster. Any tricks or suggestions? I did take both drums off and inspect the springs and made sure the boots are on the cylinders. Put the drums back on, and removed the adjuster cover, but for the life of me; I can move the adjuster by pushing on it w/ a screw driver through the little hole. At least, I don't think it's moving. Is there a trick? Special tool?

And as always, thank you!

TomSmy

iTrader: (11)

It should turn fairly easily by pushing with a flat head screwdriver or similar.

Check that the little arm (that automatically adjusts the spreader, when you reverse I think) behind it isn't binding and stopping it moving, You may need to use something thin to push it away from the spreader bar while you make the adjustment.

Tom

GSLSEforme

Did you disassemble,free up and grease threads on adjuster while apart? They can semi seize in place if not been turned much to adjust brakes,can be difficult to turn if so. Sometimes need heat to get adjuster wheel moving on threads(off car). Looked at your pic again,hard to see behind axle flange but wonder if that spring may be holding one of the cogs on adjuster...is problem same both sides? There is a tool called a brake spoon made for adjusting brake shoes but you should be able to do it with a small screwdriver.
Get your head up in there,use a small penlight to illuminate the adjuster only thru backing plate so you can see if you're actually turning the adjuster..each one of those teeth you can snag and turn with screwdriver turns the adjuster a tiny bit,you may have to adjust it 8-10 clicks or more. Again spin the tire between adjustments,don't want to go too far and have to back it off. You can hear the shoes dragging slightly on drum when you get close. A little resistance to turning the wheel is what you want-both sides same. Once you get that,you can adjust parking brake.

GSLSEforme

This just occurred to me...if you're pushing on adjuster star wheel directly you would need to use some force. Instead,put screwdriver into tooth of adjuster and allow shaft of screwdriver to rest on edge of backing plate adjuster hole..as a pivot,the length of screwdriver shaft will give you the leverage you need to rotate star wheel. When it moves,reset screwdriver into next tooth and rotate,rinse and repeat. Each movement of star wheel teeth is an incremental adjustment. May take several "adjustments" before you get what you need,remember to spin the tire to check for increased resistance between adjustments. Make sure both sides are the same.
For what it's worth,when i do brake jobs...at the point i'm putting drum on,i spin drum back and forth feeling for this drag,remove drum and adjust star wheel from front side using wheel cylinder or axle flange to pivot screwdriver on depending on which direction you need to go for a rough adjustment and fine tune that through backing plate hole after drum/wheel are installed. Do enough of these and majority of time the drum on/off adjustment can get you where you need to be without having to crawl under car and adjusting through backing plate hole. Hope this helps.

TomSmy

iTrader: (11)

I just realized after reading this - my comment was based on the assumption that you are making the adjustment with the drum off to access the adjuster.

going via the backing plate hole sounds like a pain in the butt!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

This is the method recommended in the FSM... which assumes it is done with the drum and wheel still in place.

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

Thank you all for your assistance and encouragement. Things seems to be okay and I'm happy with the results. Next project ...