immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ok I took my drive shaft to London Driveline in London Ontario and the guy matched me up a # he tooled me that these universals are not the best one but its the only company that makes them plus they have a grease feiting on the end of the caps lol.
ok the company that makes them is rockford universal joint 430-10A (bar code # if any one ever needs it) 6 85653 80365 1

I wounder if this should not be posted in the faq page this might save lots of ppl $$$ seing as i only payed 45$ list price for this universaljoint and a used drive shaft is 160$

Rx7carl

So are they owner replaceable? Im trying to visualize how this could be done at home.

rotor vs. piston

Blow torch, sledge hammer, punch, and C-clamps...

I did my U-joints on my old -SE... pain in the *** but doable. Though the shaft was a "small flange" unit that had replacable U-joints. I wouldn't replace a non-replacable u-joint... Looking at a shaft I have now, it looks do able (some are impossible without machining) but ya, please be safe before being cheap.

On the same note I just had a shaft made for my FB, all new with replacable joints, for $250... this being a custom shaft and with ~$80 labor rates up here (baltimore). I would look into finding a driveshaft shop and pricing a new unit with replacabe joints. High upfront cost, but may save you money and time down the road.

I never plan to get ride of my car, so somethings I make sure it's quality before I look at the price.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well the drive shaft place toled me 30$ can to install 2 universal joints plus the 40$ per universalm,i used a press to day at work and bent the $hit out of the yoke so i rebent it back and used a blow torch took the center out and used a hamer and a soket that fit the caps, punched them out then used small steal drinding stone to make the hole smoth,
then ended up getting 2 bearings stuck in the dam cap and now i need to get a new one, so for the 30$ its woth getting it installed by a pro then the next time it brakes it will be simple for the back year guy to fix that from my point of vieu as a mechanic who cant spell lol o and use a press

razorback

that company makes an entire replacement driveshaft using the chrysler 7260 u joints ( i think its a complete driveshaft)

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well i finished installing the 2 universals i just used the tourch and i cut out the center and useda soket to punch out the caps theres no play and feals like new. il let yous all know how she dose on the track this week end. i hade to race my mazda 323 for the first race of the year
i got in second place lol in street braket racing they maked my car as 2.0L but meh
http://www.stthomasdragway.com/results/index.html
Martin Morel

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

hey man if i knew you're looking for a drive shaft i would of gave you the one that i have sitting in the garage for like 50 bucks ... it also has the joint attached to it. all you basically need is the bolts from the the old one. PM me to hook up sometime

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well im getting my drive shaft cut next week to fit the new 13BTII, i hope the universals fit the front yoke of the fc
thanks dj55b for the shaft cool deal

ChasRX

Good lord, just buy one from Mazdatrix, new and balanced, for $260 and forget about it =)

http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm

peejay

Getting replacement U-joints is not a problem, replacing them is the problem.

The factory yokes are staked and aren't machined for C-clips. Either of these operations needs to be done VERY precisely because even .002" runout will cause some pretty nasty driveline vibrations.

Been there, done that, and the T-shirt didn't even fit. (You oughta SEE my collection of driveshafts...)

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

BOOYAKA!

How and why did I ever overlook this??

Jon

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

nice thanks,
but im doing a fc want-2-b project so il need a custom drive shaft as the TII tarany is fughter back and uses a diffrent front drive shaft yoke if thats the wright word to use. then i need to cut my fatory drive shaft 2 " shorter i belive.
but your wright mazdatrix is the way to go.

Bonjo2

I'm going to be doing another custom driveshaft and would like to know...

1. The Crysler U-Joints bolt up to the flange on the rear axle?
2. Can the Chrysler U-Joints be simply be welded to a section of pipe, or do they require an adapter? Obviously in a jig or lathe and then balanced...
3,4,5. Anyone have a picture of the Chrysler U-joint, Price, and could show what's included?



Thanks.

OnlyOnThurs

No kidding on that note! I tried replacing the u joints once by myself on a 82 driveshaft. All i have to say is that A hammer, a mexican guy (me), a case of tecate (beer) was NOT enough for me to do this........AT ALL! I fucked up that ujoint and driveshaft so badly it was not even funny. No way in hell am i ever going to try that again. Just go but that aftermarket driveshaft from mazdatrix.