re: GSLSE, rebuilt motor, flooding won't start???
re: GSLSE, rebuilt motor, flooding won't start???
as the subject states, need some help.
have spark, engine keeps turning over but no vroom vroom.
isn't there a trick(way) to remove the fuel pump fuse to keep the fuel pump from injecting more fuel to an already flooded engine, having problems can anyone help???? suggesstions??? troubleshooting attempts anyone, very frustrating???
thanx in advance, rotarypwrd
have spark, engine keeps turning over but no vroom vroom.
isn't there a trick(way) to remove the fuel pump fuse to keep the fuel pump from injecting more fuel to an already flooded engine, having problems can anyone help???? suggesstions??? troubleshooting attempts anyone, very frustrating???
thanx in advance, rotarypwrd
Disconnect the blue spade connector from the trailing coil. This will cause the injectors not to fire. This should help clearing it out.
BTW, starting my SE rebulid was a pain as well. They tend to have low compression initially. You may also want to pull the plugs, dry them off, and crank the engine over several times to get some of that fuel out. I would also try squirting in some oil in each chamer before intalling the plugs. This will help build compression. Just keep trying, you will get it eventually.
Kent
BTW, starting my SE rebulid was a pain as well. They tend to have low compression initially. You may also want to pull the plugs, dry them off, and crank the engine over several times to get some of that fuel out. I would also try squirting in some oil in each chamer before intalling the plugs. This will help build compression. Just keep trying, you will get it eventually.
Kent
Check to see if anything is blocking your airway path. See if your Air Flow Meter is sticking, mine did that and wouldn't start. Stick your hand down there and give the door a little shove to check.
GavinJuice thank you, but still no go.
air flow meter door- check, it does open when started.
the things that are currently disconnected are smog pump, little blk air cannister below stock air box.
anything else you can think of, I really need to get this one started bad! only driving car, can't get to work.
anything???? any helpful suggestions appreciated.
air flow meter door- check, it does open when started.
the things that are currently disconnected are smog pump, little blk air cannister below stock air box.
anything else you can think of, I really need to get this one started bad! only driving car, can't get to work.
anything???? any helpful suggestions appreciated.
Tomas,
pull the plugs. if they're wet, clean them with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. thoroughly dry.
There is a no-start thread on this forum u might want to check out.
Brad
pull the plugs. if they're wet, clean them with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. thoroughly dry.
There is a no-start thread on this forum u might want to check out.
Brad
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Are you getting no fuel or flooding?
Obviously if you have no fuel you need to troubleshoot that.
If you are flooding, put in a kill switch to the fuel pump. Then after a few cranks, turn on the switch and it should start. I recently used this technique to start a rebuilt T2 motor. At first it wanted to flood but the kill switch came in handy big time.
Then as the motor begins to wear in and gain compression, you will have less and less problems starting.
Scott
Obviously if you have no fuel you need to troubleshoot that.
If you are flooding, put in a kill switch to the fuel pump. Then after a few cranks, turn on the switch and it should start. I recently used this technique to start a rebuilt T2 motor. At first it wanted to flood but the kill switch came in handy big time.
Then as the motor begins to wear in and gain compression, you will have less and less problems starting.
Scott
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