re-drilling bolt pattern
01-04-07, 05:04 PM
#1
re-drilling bolt pattern
i noticed another thread posted by a member the other day about re-drilling the rear axles for a 5x108 bolt pattern.. after some thought i was thinking about doing the same..but in a 4x100 pattern...this would of course open up a new world of wheel choices to us fb owners...now i'm thinking the rears would be pretty simple but i'm not to sure about the fronts... i'd also feel more comfortable about thisbecause there'd be alot more material left supporting the studs then in the five lug conversions i've seen...what do you think guys??...chime in with any thoughts/oppinions/ or ideas....
01-05-07, 12:52 AM
#7
I think it would just be cheaper for you and probable a better idea is you just swap in GSL-Se components. But if you do drill the back in 4x100, then you could just swap the GSL-Se front suspension so you would have 4x100 at the back and 4x114.3 at the front most wheels with the 4x100 have both those patterns on there anyways so it wouldn't be a big deal. The only other worry about this is that with this setup your brakes won't be balance anymore though.
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01-05-07, 08:46 PM
#8
i'm thinking that re-drilling would be cheaper then the se swap route..also for the simple fact that finding used se suspension in any sort of decent condition usually comands a pretty big price tag... i'm sureany decfent machine shop could redril everything for a reasonable price..the only kicker would be the fact that everytime you need new rotors you're going to have to redrill them as well....damn my wheels are turning thinking of a new set of 16x10's in a 4x100 for my widebody...mmmmmmm
01-05-07, 09:01 PM
#9
Wankel Me This!!
I was thinking of redrilling my rotors so I can fit my honda rims. I called every where to see if they do that and no one does and I called 20 places and 13 told me I should not do that because it will make the car vibrate and the wheel will wobbel alittle. It is a not a good idea so I am going to make wheel addapters and all that will do is push the wheel 1 inch out
01-05-07, 09:26 PM
#10
i think they may have been blowing smoke up your **** there...changing the bolt pattern wouldn't make the wheel wobble the only thing that could cause that is if the wheels where not hubcentric...in other words the inner ring inside the wheel mounting plate has to fit snugly around the colar on your rotors...also you couldn't just drill your rotors and press lugs into them you have to drill the hubs/axels....if done right i don't see why it couldn't work
01-05-07, 09:49 PM
#11
love the braaaap
That was my thread you were talking about. It isn't a big deal to do the rears, but for the front you would have to redrill them every time you change the brake rotors. The rear rotors are real easy to redrill, the hard part there is the axle shafts themselves. I would suggest having a good machine shop redrill your rear axles and brake rotors to the 4x100 pattern, then convert to GSL-SE front brakes. That way you can use dual bolt pattern wheels, which usually come in 4x100 and 4x114.3. I personally don't think the flange on the rear axle shaft is strong enough to support the 4x114.3 pattern as it just gets too thin at the edges. Even the stock 4x110 pattern is close to the edges.
Either way you do it, you will end up with more choices than you would ever want for wheels. But the prices for a machine shop to do your axles will vary. They are usually quite expensive, somewhere around $100 an hour I think. A good machine shop should be able to do both rear axles in 2 hours, probably less.
Either way you do it, you will end up with more choices than you would ever want for wheels. But the prices for a machine shop to do your axles will vary. They are usually quite expensive, somewhere around $100 an hour I think. A good machine shop should be able to do both rear axles in 2 hours, probably less.
01-05-07, 10:06 PM
#12
if you drill them out correctly you wont have vibration problems
just an idea
remove the stud from the surface your going to redrill, stick it in a machining lathe and cut a tiny groove thats the exact diameter of the new wheel pattern diameter, than use a vertical mill to drill in the exact hole pattern, if you do it right you'll be golden
i feel lucky owning an fc, so many wheel patterns, in fact i have 3 sets of wheels ^_^
just an idea
remove the stud from the surface your going to redrill, stick it in a machining lathe and cut a tiny groove thats the exact diameter of the new wheel pattern diameter, than use a vertical mill to drill in the exact hole pattern, if you do it right you'll be golden
i feel lucky owning an fc, so many wheel patterns, in fact i have 3 sets of wheels ^_^
Last edited by staticguitar313; 01-05-07 at 10:06 PM. Reason: w00t?
01-05-07, 10:13 PM
#13
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
That was my thread you were talking about. It isn't a big deal to do the rears, but for the front you would have to redrill them every time you change the brake rotors. The rear rotors are real easy to redrill, the hard part there is the axle shafts themselves. I would suggest having a good machine shop redrill your rear axles and brake rotors to the 4x100 pattern, then convert to GSL-SE front brakes. That way you can use dual bolt pattern wheels, which usually come in 4x100 and 4x114.3. I personally don't think the flange on the rear axle shaft is strong enough to support the 4x114.3 pattern as it just gets too thin at the edges. Even the stock 4x110 pattern is close to the edges.
Either way you do it, you will end up with more choices than you would ever want for wheels. But the prices for a machine shop to do your axles will vary. They are usually quite expensive, somewhere around $100 an hour I think. A good machine shop should be able to do both rear axles in 2 hours, probably less.
Either way you do it, you will end up with more choices than you would ever want for wheels. But the prices for a machine shop to do your axles will vary. They are usually quite expensive, somewhere around $100 an hour I think. A good machine shop should be able to do both rear axles in 2 hours, probably less.
01-05-07, 11:53 PM
#14
love the braaaap
Originally Posted by staticguitar313
remove the stud from the surface your going to redrill, stick it in a machining lathe and cut a tiny groove thats the exact diameter of the new wheel pattern diameter, than use a vertical mill to drill in the exact hole pattern, if you do it right you'll be golden
Thats great you can get the wheels you want in both patterns. That is definately the way I would go. But since I converted to the TII brakes up front with the respeed kit, I went with 5 bolt in the rear. The fronts will have 1" thick adapters on them to convert to the proper bolt pattern and space out the wheels from the struts.
01-07-07, 02:19 AM
#16
love the braaaap
I assume you have a widebody from your username and the fact you think you can fit a 10" wide wheel on the back. I'm not sure on what tire you can get though. 15" is a hard wheel to find tires for, heck its getting hard enough with 16" in the small diameters that these cars need.
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