13BstreetportFB

yeah, i just inspected the seal and it seems fine. i can rotate the seal around the rod on the booster. is the seal suppose to do that or should it be pretty snug??? and to check whether the booster stiffen up i put the old m/c back on and pressed the pedal... it was soft and i could press the pedal freely.... does this mean that my booster is good still since it didn't stiffen up??? i'm getting my new m/c tomorrow.

85 FB

Your brake booster is more than likely fine. Just go ahead and get the new master cylinder on and see how it goes for you. Have a friend help you with the bleeding process so that you don't have any air in that system to give a bad pedal feel.

13BstreetportFB

thanks man... i'll let you know how it goes tomorrow

13BstreetportFB

sorry for the late reply guys due to going out of town but good news is it was only the master cylinder NO BOOSTER. nice... thanks for the help

Skidtron

iTrader: (1)

The only thing I would add to this is if you want you can take your booster off and shake out as much fluid as you can. But the fluid should eventually come out through the vacuum line going to the intake manifold if it is on the out side of the diaphram. If it's inside the diaphram you'll know cause with the engine running the pedal will be very hard to push. Then you will need a brake booster. As for the paint you can just lightly sand the booster and paint it flat black again.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

What are you talking about? The booster is a sealed unit with vacuum lines. There is no way fluid will return to the intake. Often, when the rear seal on the master fails, the leaking brake fluid will make it's way inside the cabin and under the carpet. I have yet to hear of a leaking master causing a booster failure.

Wash the booster down with brake cleaner and touch up/repaint it, done.