If you're following my story...yep, I bought the car from my son! 1983 RX-7.

So I removed the "rats nest" (I have a Sterling carb and full RB exhaust).

I followed Rx7Carl's "how to" and a "hand drawn" guide from (sorry I can't remember from who, but thanks!).

I ended up with some extra hoses and need to know if they still connect anywhere.


Does this extra "Y" get connected (showing both ends)?


Does this extra hose get connected (showing both ends)?


Carl's guide showed 5 tubes to cap but (as seen in the picture) I only have four.


And Carl's tutorial mentioned a "T" fitting off the A/C solenoid but the "drawing" has no "T".

Also, it looks like the round cap/filter on the A/C solenoid gets moved to the opposite end of the solenoid! Is that correct?

Any additional help (specific to a Sterling carb) would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks a million.

DD

 

In picture #1 that is the cruise control module. I am guessing that you probably removed the solenoid for the cruise control? (I think it is the white one.) At any rate if you want a functioning cruise control you'll need to hook it back up somehow (I'm not entirely sure). I would recommend just removing it and putting it in storage in case you ever change your mind. Just take out the 10mm bolts, unhook the linkage/cable to it, and it will come right out. It doesn't need to be hooked up to anything for your Sterling carb, and frankly if you are going for performance you'll want it out of there to save some weight and clean up the bay.

In picture #2 that is the cold start assist. There will be no use for it in your new setup. Pull it out and either throw it in the trash or put it in storage. Whichever you prefer. It is merely adding dead weight to your car. I don't think that the sterling carbs even have a choke so you'll just have to learn how to start it without one in the cold.

On your airbox I think you need to plug the large hole on the gray plastic breather thing. I believe that's the 5th hole? Also, take that black plastic flapper out of the snorkel on your air cleaner. It is SUPER restrictive.....

Hope this helps a little!

 

Glazedham42,

1. Ah yes, that makes sense now. That helped a lot!. So I'll just remove the cruise control module and the cold start assist tank (you are right - my Sterling carb has no choke).

2. It also doesn't have the Anti Afterburn Valve so I just skipped that step.



3. Page 20 says "Hook the saved hose up to the top of the solenoid to the throttle opener". ??? I don't seem to have a throttle opener. Am I supposed to take the one off my old carb and somehow install it on the Sterling? I do have A/C if that's what this is for, but the A/C worked fine without it even after the Sterling was installed. Should I just cap the top of the solenoid?




4. And my solenoid question: "Also, it looks like the round cap/filter on the A/C solenoid gets moved to the opposite end of the solenoid! Is that correct?" All the solenoids on my rats nest are the same #AESA127, and they all have the round filter/cap on the same end opposite the switch connectors, yet the pictures show several on the switch connector end. What gives?

5. And Carl's tutorial mentioned a "T" fitting off the A/C solenoid but the drawing has no "T". So without the cruise control module I don't need the "T".

Thanks again (oh, and that hand-drawn pic I referred to was by Stevan).

So I think I just need answers to questions #3 and #4, but I'll take any additional help you want to throw my way. I already read most of the 500 threads on "rats nest" and yet these few questions remain. I'm still learning the terminology of the parts but searching really helpd.

DD

 

There is no solenoid for the cruise control. All that hose needs (the one coming out of the cruise control module) is a vacuum port at the other end - you don't even need that Y. That is of course if it is desired to keep the cruise control.

 

Yeah it doesn't look like you have a throttle opener. And yes, its function is to raise the idle when the A/C is turned on so that the engine can handle the additional load. If you say it works fine without it, then don't worry about it. Since you don't have a throttle opener you won't be needing the A/C solenoid or that vacuum hose that goes to it, so you can just cap that vacuum port at the carb spacer as well.

 

I've been gone for a week but I wanted to update my progress to help anyone searching for the same problems/solution.

I removed the cruise control module and the cold start assist tank. (Looks must cleaner).

I took the "throttle opener" from my old carb and installed it on the Sterling carb. Just 2 bolts - piece of cake. I hooked a hose up from the top of the solenoid to the throttle opener. The A/C solenoid was p/n #AESA127 and I moved the cap/filter to the opposite end - actually all my solenoids had the same p/n. (Seemed odd - probably something wrong there???)

I adjusted the idle down to about 750 - 800 (using an old post by Sterling...adjust the speed screw, adjust the mixture screw, and repeat...) That was simple too.

After the car warmed up I turned on the A/C and adjusted the screw on top of the throttle opener to bring the idle up to where it should be. Again, very simple.

So now it all works great and idles fine but still seems to shake the air cleaner assembly more than I would like. Maybe more idle adjustments (though many say "they all shake".)


Last question: (Still not sure about this...) "On your airbox I think you need to plug the large hole on the gray plastic breather thing. I believe that's the 5th hole? Also, take that black plastic flapper out of the snorkel on your air cleaner. It is SUPER restrictive..... "

Anyone else agree??

Thanks,

DD

 

My setup has been working great for a very long time now (Sterling, RB exhaust, no rats). I've been meaning to post some good picks for easy refference but just haven't had the time. I'll try to get to it this week though. I think the instructions would almost be easier if they said something like "take everything off, then hook these items up like this...". It's really a very simple setup when finished.

 

The only thing I'd add is, get rid of the stock aif filter assembly and get a Power Pulse Air Filter Assembly. It'll help air flow.

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=16531

 

I would go with that for two reasons. One it will flow alot better then your stock airbox, and two it just looks damn cool!