leadguy

Yes, this is another rat's nest thread.

This all began from problems resulting from installing my RB header (see my thread: 80 won't idle after RB header install HELP).

I'm starting this thread because after doing a search I couldn't find definitive instructions that included any pictures to help those of us who don't know how to do this. So, I have added a link to pictures of what I have ripped out so far.

Keep in mind, I don't know what I am doing. So, the purpose of this thread is to get responses as to what vacuum lines need to be address from YOU the forum member. I will then make the suggested changes, add updated pictures and ask more questions if necessary until we are done.

I hope that at the end of this those considering the operation will feel confident enough to do this based on both good pictures and good advice.

http://www.deal52.com/RX-7/rats_nest_op.htm

SilverRocket

Bla! Too many little numbers for such a simple job!

Why didn't you just pull off the whole rat's nest? All you took off was the solenoids.

I offer the same answer as always:

Pull that whole rat's nest off. That means unbolt it fom the engine and pull off *all* the vacuum lines. Buy rubber vacuum caps and cap all the holes at the base of the carb. On the shutter valve, block the large opening but leave the small one unplugged (I think... I know on mine one of them needed to be blocked). Do not plug the vacuum advance pots on the dizzy. Leave air vent solenoid on the top of carb open as well.

Put a breather filter on the oil filler inlet, or run a line to the air filter. Leave the charcoal canister intact. It should run from the gas tank, into the canister, and then to the inlet on the middle housing near the oil filler. That's how it was on my 82 anyways.

That's it!

If you like taking things off, you can also remove the hot start assist motor, sub zero fluid system, everything on the carb that had to do with the air pump, etc. Have fun!

V8kilr

hey see your in detroit,

click my sig and sign up,

anyway you should have removed all the metal lines for a cleaner apearance,

if you want some tips and what nots maybe you could swing by one day,

im located in st.clair shores
its right beside roseville,
im as close to the water on the east side as it gets

everything looks good from what i can see

BUT THERE IS ONE LITTLE LINE THAT YOU DO NOT PLUG

cant point it out in your pics though
its by the carb

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Ill try and convert what V8kilr said into your number scheme. Plug 1-5 at the carb, leave 7 open, only if 5 and 7 are the shutter valve that is...If not then I dont know. But you need to plug 1-4 for sure at the carb. Leave 21 and 11 open at the dizzy. Put the breather filter he was talking about on 19. I think thats what it was in your pics...Its the tube that goes to the oil filler tube. As suggested earlier, take off the whole thing (all the metal lines), not just the silonoids. Its hard for me to say what to do because for one, I have never done it, and two, its not an 83-85 like all my cars . Good luck though...Hope that helped some...

~T.J.

PS - In case you dont know, the shutter valve is on the intake manifold itself, not the carb. Its on the runner for the rear rotor, on the rats nest side if the carb. It has two lines on it, one thats small that went to the rats nest, and one thats big that goes to the air cleaner. Plug the big one, and leave the little one open. At least thats the way it was on my 85.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

You know, now that I look at that pic more...Did the 1980's even HAVE shutter valves? I dont think they did now that I think about it...So if thats the case, any line that goes to the "plate" under the carb with all the fittings on it, just plug em. Which, it looks to me would be 1-5 and 7. Then dont plug 21 and 11, leave them open at the distributor. Add the breather filter thing on 19 (tube on oil filler). Other than that, I dont know anymore. Sorry. Good luck though, and nice pics byt the way.

~T.J.

RXcetera

No shutter valve on SA's.

This is a very simple mod made extremely complicated lol. All you do is remove everything and plug all open ends left at the carb base and in the manifold. Like Silver said, put a filter on the nipple left on the oil filler neck or run a hose from it to the air filter. There's no need to cap off the 2 solenoids left open on the distributor.

Btw, you dont have AC on your car do you? If you do, you have a problem... the WHITE plug is part of the AC system...

leadguy

RXcetera, that was my next question. Yes I do have A/C and I want to keep it working.

Is there any way to keep just the white valve connected and preserve A/C.

These are the kinds questions that pop up for this operation that, at least for novices, make this more than a simple modification.

I am not interested in racing/high performance I just want my car to run dependably and be comfortable while driving it (A/C).

Unfortunately, for many of us 79-80 owners, the ridiculous cost of replacing the thermal reactor system pretty much forces us to go to a header replacement.

Can we do this operation and keep A/C?

RXcetera

Sure, my Savanna has the exact same setup. The AC solenoid is mounted to a seperate little bracket that is then bolted to the "rail". Remove the bracket from the rail and use it to hold the solenoid to the engine.

From there, all you have to do is hook up the AC solenoid so that it works the same way as it did originaly by using some vaccum line. The top (vertical) nipple on the solenoid will go wherever #14 end ups and the middle nipple on the solenoid (horizontal) will go wherever #8 ends up. Makes sense? Just take the rail of vacuun lines off and trace where 14 and 8 go to the carb and replace the metal rail lines with simple hose.

It's easy to tell where #8 goes in the pic, but #14 is a little trickier to see. I'm at work, so I dont have access to my shop manual. Check the pic... the red lines indicates the original passage. The blue line indicates what you'll be doing with hose (for #8 anyways... I cant tell where #14 goes).

leadguy

F@*k!
Now, it won't even start at all. I have now gone from perfectly running engine with bad exhaust -to- new header car up on stands haven't got a clue.

THIS RATS NEST CRAP IS NOT SIMPLE

And I am somewhat mechanically inclined. OK okay,

I took the rats nest completely off as suggested and I capped the suggested lines.

The car turns over but doesn't start.

I don't think I am getting gas to the carb because I pump the hell out of the gas pedal and I don't see or smell a lot of gas at the carb.

Could it be that I'm not getting spark since removing the dizzy vacuum lines in the rats nest removal?

This morning I tried reconnecting the rats nest, still no start. Totally beaten.

Must do it myself (broke) so taking it somewhere out of question for now. Is this the life of a RXer?

I need help. If any of you local guys can help it would be greatly appreciated (beer on me).

RXcetera

Pull the main fuel line out of the carb... turn on the key and see if gas spills out (into a bucket please! lol). If you get gas, you shoud assume fuel isnt your problem. Pulling the vacuum lines off your distributor cant cause it to malfunction, so dont worry about that.

I bet you overlooked something... probably missed capping something. This could cause a major vacuum leak... preventing your engine from starting.

Bruceman

iTrader: (5)

Where abouts in Detroit are you?
I work in Warren, live in Rochester. I could help before the weekend if you're close.

Bruceman

AZ85RX7

Is it possible to do this to an 85? It has A/C but I took the compressor out and don't use the A/C. Also, what exactly is the procedure for this? Just take out all the vacume lines and plug all the holes in the carb?

leadguy

I'm off M-39 (Southfield Fwy) Joy Road & Evergreen. Just a few miles north of Dearborn.

Barwick

dude you're in Detroit? If you can get that sucker up & running and friggin' LIMP it over to my place, come look at my '80 race car. As you'd imagine it's got no emissions on it at all. Otherwise where are you? I can come check it out and help you.

leadguy

AZ85RX7 well obviously I'm not habing much luck so in my opinion -It ain't that easy.

I think part of the problem with doing this rats nest operation is that the advice you get comes from different car years and there is a difference. My car is an 80.

Hey! I noticed someone has changed my little message to Insane Burnout.

leadguy

Barwick does your 80 have the original engine?

btw do you or ANY of you who have done this successfully have PICTURES that can be posted to show the lines that are capped and uncapped? Particularly 79-80 owners

NanaimoRx-7

I have and '80,
Pics no scanner yet, sorry. I could go out and look and describe it for you. At the base of the carb where you plugged all the small lines did you leave the larger hose that jumps to an upper part of the carb? I was told to leave this one on (altitude compensator, I forget). I go have a look, and get back to you.

leadguy

Okay maybe we can go over this step by step.

I just went outside and took the nest off again. I think I have better pictures this time. So let me stop here and post the pics in a few minutes.

RXcetera

Ok, I'm here for a bit also, so I can also help you out. You can get through this... there's no magic involved .

leadguy

Okay click the link below to get this party started.
I think I have all but one of the holes in question in the pics.

I will add the other soon (it's on the black plastic thing attached to the carb, I think it is the throttle opener)

If this is everything then let's hear yea or nay on capping them.

Reggie

http://www.deal52.com/RX-7/rats_nest_2.htm

REVHED

Your problem's right there in the first pic. You need to plug off all of those vacuum nipples... not just the small ones.

peejay

You don't NEED the A/C solenoid. All it does is raise idle speed to compensate for the load when the compressor is on. I've never had one that worked on ANY carbed car I owned. All you have to do is either manually hold idle up, or turn the A/C off at lights, or (easiest) let the engine lug down to 500rpm or whatever.

leadguy

Okay, are you absolutely sure? As you may have read that contradicts some of the other replies that say at least one of the nipples at the base of the carb needs to stay open.

I just updated the pics. Can you give any insight as to the other openings, in particular the big nipple above the electrical connector in picture 2, the two valves, and the hose near the base of the oil filler tube (not the one going into the tube itself)?

I tend to think you may have something since my other efforts haven't worked.

Thanks

leadguy

QUOTE]Okay, are you absolutely sure? As you may have read that contradicts some of the other replies that say at least one of the nipples at the base of the carb needs to stay open. [/QUOTE]

My last reply was to Revhed's post. I'll use quotes from now on.[

leadguy

First, I will get it working without the A/C solenoid after that I will reinstall the solenoid because I want my A/C to work. Will A/C work without it?